Brazilian plus-size model Thayanne Oliveira, 19, poses for a portrait before the Deusa Plus Size (Goddess Plus Size) beauty pageant, as part of the Sexy Fair in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil on May 3, 2019.CARLOS FABAL/AFP/Getty Images
Augustina Boateng is a writer who focuses on the latest trends in science and technology.
The recent rise in weight-loss drugs such as Ozempic and Wegovy is creating significant waves in the fashion industry, with consequences that are unintended, but not entirely unexpected.
According to Impact Analytics, an artificial-intelligence-based planning and forecasting company, the widespread use of GLP-1 drugs, initially prescribed for diabetes but now widely adopted for their weight-loss benefits, is leading to a notable reduction in clothing sizes sold by fashion outlets and specialty stores.
The company said in a recent statement that, compared with 2022, sales of women’s button-down shirts in small sizes (XXS, XS, and S) have increased 12 per cent, and sales of large sizes (XXL, XL and L) have decreased by 10.9 per cent.
This shift goes beyond just clothing as it signals broader changes across the entire fashion industry.
The new weight-loss trend has had some far-reaching implications, particularly for plus-size models who have fought hard for their place in an industry that traditionally upheld narrow beauty standards.
It is clear to me that the rising popularity of these weight-loss drugs is undermining plus-size modelling. As more people now turn to Ozempic and similar drugs to lose weight, we can witness this decline in real time and how it ripples out in the wider fashion industry.
Despite the increased visibility of plus-size models over the past decade, many of those models are now openly expressing their frustration at once again being overlooked by the industry. Some of them even say many fashion brands they had previously worked with have stopped booking them for jobs. That loss of jobs has sparked a debate about the industry’s direction.
One could argue that the current shrinkage of clothing sizes simply reflects a thinning in the bodies of customers, so representation is not an issue. But I think the rate of one is outstripping the other.
Ozempic is expensive without insurance and requires regular injections. About one-eighth of Americans have taken Ozempic, but this figure does not specify how many are taking it for weight loss, versus for its intended treatment of diabetes. And one poll shows that only half of people who have tried Ozempic continue to take it – which is required to maintain its weight-loss effects.
All in all, the actual effect of Ozempic on the population’s weight is questionable. The average weight of Americans has not changed much over the years, with the proportion of people weighing more than 200 pounds actually rising.
Yet Ozempic has certainly taken a hold of our minds and perceptions. In the 2023 fashion season, data showed that in women’s clothing shows, the presence of plus-size and mid-size models declined by nearly a quarter compared to the previous season.
The presence of plus-size models on runways and in campaigns, to me and many other people, was more than just a trend; it was a movement toward inclusivity, one in which the models represented a broader spectrum of body types and diversity, making fashion more accessible and relatable to everyone and not just to a target audience.
Therefore, this isn’t just a social issue, but one that can be measured in hard dollars and cents. Estimates vary, but the plus-size market has been valued at hundreds of billions a year.
The reduced visibility of plus-size models now risks alienating a significant portion of the consumer base, who no longer see themselves represented in the fashion industry.
Like many industries, it is driven by consumer demand, and the success of plus-size models and inclusive brands demonstrated a clear market marketing strategy that boosted sales through diverse representation.
Brands such as Ganni and Sinéad O’Dwyer have shown that inclusivity can be both a moral and a profitable choice. The current decline in plus-size representation could be seen as a disconnect between the industry and its consumers, potentially leading to a backlash and loss of loyalty.
This shift is not just about employment for plus-size models; it’s about redefining beauty standards, consumer expectations and the very fabric of fashion itself.