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In the first few weeks of Israel and Hezbollah’s escalating fight within Lebanon’s borders, Goran Tomasevic and Siegfried Modola crossed the country to see the chaos and the ordinary people scrambling to avoid it

Oct. 9: The Syrian scramble

By the time Globe staff photographer Goran Tomasevic was settled and ready to work in Lebanon, the number of internally displaced people in the country had surged to 1.2 million and rising. Northern cities were packed with people who had fled the Hezbollah-controlled south to escape Israeli ground forces and air strikes.

The displaced people included thousands of Syrians with a desperate plan: return to the homeland from which they fled in the 2010s, during its civil war, in the hope that they would be safer there. Mr. Tomasevic, Globe correspondent Eric Reguly and a local fixer met several of these Syrians at the Masnaa border crossing, whose main road was scarred by two big craters thanks to Israeli air strikes a week earlier. Rafa’a Elma’alami, five months pregnant, spoke of the bombardment of the refugee camp where she and her family lived in south Beirut – and her despair at what would happen next:

Years ago, we escaped the war in Syria. Now we are going back because of the Lebanese war. ... We are not happy to go back, but Syria is actually safer than Lebanon now. Always war, war, war. God knows what will happen to Lebanon.
People on the Masnaa road make their way around huge craters, careful to avoid slipping with their suitcases and jerrycans of gasoline. On the Syrian side, the al-Assad regime has not yet been drawn into the conflict, though there have been some Israeli strikes on Iran-linked installations in the country. Goran Tomasevic/The Globe and Mail



Oct. 10-12: North and south

The Globe sent freelancer Siegfried Modola to join Mr. Tomasevic, which allowed them to split their efforts between Beirut and the southern war zone, respectively. By then, Israel’s targets in the south had widened beyond Hezbollah: On Oct. 10, the United Nations Interim Force in Lebanon, UNIFIL, accused Israel of targeting three of its posts, injuring two peacekeepers. UNIFIL forces described more clashes with Israeli tanks at the peacekeepers’ headquarters in Naqoura through the weekend when Mr. Tomasevic was in Marjayoun, a Christian town whose residents were defying Israel’s orders to evacuate.

Central Beirut, meanwhile, saw its deadliest strikes yet on Oct. 10, with an estimated 22 civilian casualties in two neighbourhoods. The Israel Defense Forces said it was targeting Hezbollah’s surviving leaders, working down the list of successors to Hassan Nasrallah, whom Israel assassinated on Sept. 27.

Displaced people in Beirut camp on the roadside, the beach or any public spaces they can find. Depending on how the refugees are counted, between 14 and 21 per cent of Lebanon’s population of 5.8 million have been forced to leave their homes so far. Siegfried Modola/The Globe and Mail
Before this fall, central Beirut had been largely spared from air strikes like this one. Israeli rockets were more likely to hit the southern suburbs. There, Hezbollah – which has only a few seats in the Beirut-based parliament – runs its own state-like institutions with far-reaching influence on the actual state. Siegfried Modola/The Globe and Mail
Marjayoun is a mostly Christian city in the southern region patrolled by UNIFIL, whose mission is to uphold the ceasefire from Israel and Hezbollah’s last major conflict in 2006. Now, civilians and peacekeepers alike are caught in the middle of more violence there. Goran Tomasevic/The Globe and Mail



Oct. 13-15: Dark days in Maaysrah

A Hezbollah drone killed four IDF soldiers in northern Israel on Oct. 13, wounding dozens more in what the militant group said was retaliation for Israeli attacks on Beirut – and proof that Israel’s much-touted Iron Dome air-defence system could be penetrated. The same day, the United States promised to send Israel new anti-missile technology and personnel to operate it, but warned that access to U.S. weapons funding could be cut off in 30 days unless Israel allowed humanitarian aid to enter the Gaza Strip.

Meanwhile, Mr. Modola, Mr. Tomasevic and their translator set out on Oct. 14 for Maaysrah, a majority Shia village north of Beirut that was burying 12 of the 17 victims of an Israeli strike the previous weekend. They showed their credentials to local authorities and families so they could build trust before capturing the scene.

Near a mosque in Maaysrah, Shia Muslims prepare coffins for burial, draping them in the Lebanese flag. Surrounding villages in this mountainous region of the north are mostly Christian. Nationally, Shiites, Sunnis and Christians each account for just under a third of the population. Siegfried Modola/The Globe and Mail
The Globe saw 10 bodies buried in simple graves, side by side, according to Muslim traditions. Islam, like Judaism, encourages the faithful to bury the dead as quickly as possible, preferably within 24 hours. Siegfried Modola/The Globe and Mail
As mourners shout, a Maronite priest bows his head in prayer. Maronites, who follow an eastern form of Catholicism, are the largest Christian group in Lebanon, where faith is part of the balance of state power: The president must be a Maronite, the prime minister a Sunni and the parliamentary speaker a Shiite. Goran Tomasevic/The Globe and Mail



Oct. 16-18: Attack on Nabatieh

Mayor Ahmed Kahil and officials in Nabatieh, a provincial capital in southern Lebanon, were meeting to co-ordinate aid efforts on Oct. 16 when Israeli rockets blew up the municipal building, the biggest attack on a Lebanese government facility since the start of the air war. Israel said it struck dozens of Hezbollah targets around Nabatieh, which it had ordered to evacuate on Oct. 3. Caretaker Prime Minister Najib Mikati said the building was “intentionally targeted,” as government officials warned that the Lebanese state itself, not just Hezbollah, was now at risk of Israeli attack.

Mr. Tomasevic and Mr. Modola were in Nabatieh to survey the damage and photograph funerals for the victims when events in Gaza took a dramatic turn with the death of Hamas leader Yahya Sinwar in an Israeli tank assault. Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu called it “the beginning of the day after Hamas.”

This ambulance in Nabatieh is still working, but The Globe found another one destroyed by Israeli rockets, and being stripped of its useful supplies. Days of air strikes had depopulated large parts of Nabatieh, the second most populous city in the south after Tyre. Siegfried Modola/The Globe and Mail
The air-strike victims included municipal officials who co-ordinated aid efforts. Israel said its target had been Hezbollah installations in Nabatieh, but the civil servants’ deaths raised concerns in Lebanon that state employees and infrastructure were now in danger. Goran Tomasevic/The Globe and Mail
On the day of the funerals in Nabatieh, Lebanon’s health ministry updated its death toll to 2,418 since the start of the conflict a year earlier, with women and children making up a quarter of the deaths. The same day, the IDF gave an estimate of 1,500 Hezbollah casualties. Siegfried Modola/The Globe and Mail



Oct. 19-21: No Sinwar, and no peace

The air war in Lebanon and northern Israel grew more, not less, intense in the days after Mr. Sinwar’s death, despite renewed international pleas for a ceasefire. On Oct. 19, Mr. Tomasevic saw Hezbollah rockets in flight toward Israel; the next day, the IDF bombarded Hezbollah’s intelligence headquarters in south Beirut.

While Mr. Modola spent his days in Lebanon profiling internally displaced people in Beirut and Sidon, about 40 kilometres south of the capital, Mr. Tomasevic went back to Marjayoun on Oct. 21. The town was now mostly deserted, with many areas unreachable because of heavy shelling. When he was leaving, he found a Syrian refugee camp and spoke to people there while another Israeli air strike hit a nearby hill.

From a distance, Mr. Tomasevic photographed these Hezbollah rockets before people nearby started shouting at him and his fixer, and they moved away. The Oct. 19 barrage also included drones, one of which targeted Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu’s summer home in Caesarea. Goran Tomasevic/The Globe and Mail
After a night’s sleep at a marketplace in Sidon, displaced people get ready for the day on Oct. 19. At the time, Sidon, a Lebanese port south of Beirut, had not yet seen heavy bombardment; that would change the following week, when two air strikes killed eight people. Siegfried Modola/The Globe and Mail
Two-year-old Ivana, recovering from third-degree burns after an Israeli air strike, gets some food from her mother, Fatima, at Beirut’s Geitaoui hospital. The burn unit here is the only one of its kind in Lebanon. Siegfried Modola/The Globe and Mail
In Beirut, a crowd clashes with police after the eviction of displaced people from a local building; in southern Lebanon, a Syrian refugee child watches Israeli air strikes at the border. Across Lebanon, the displacement of people has brought intensifying strife over living space. Siegfried Modola and Goran Tomasevic/The Globe and Mail



Oct. 22-24: ‘The seeds of total destruction’

South Beirut took another pounding on Oct. 22 while, in Israel, U.S. Secretary of State Antony Blinken arrived for his 11th Middle East tour since the start of the war in Gaza. Hezbollah ruled out any negotiations while fighting continued with Israel, and the IDF boasted of killing more Hezbollah commanders and confirmed that Hashem Safieddine, the heir apparent to Mr. Nasrallah, had died in air strikes in September.

In Mr. Modola’s home city of Paris, which he would soon return to, delegates from 70 countries met on Oct. 24 to find money to avert a humanitarian crisis in Lebanon. Mr. Mikati told the conference that, with more support, his country’s army could deploy as many as 8,000 troops in the south to help enforce a ceasefire. “The storm we are currently witnessing is unlike any other, because it carries the seeds of total destruction, not only for our country but for all human values,” he said.

Dust rises from the rubble in a suburban Shia neighbourhood of Beirut on Oct. 22, after a series of air strikes that Israel said were aimed at al-Qard al-Hassan, a financial institution linked to Hezbollah. Siegfried Modola/The Globe and Mail
This man’s shop in Harouf, west of Nabatieh, did not survive an Israeli air strike. Times have been hard for Lebanon’s businesses since long before the war: The economic meltdown of 2019, and the Beirut port explosion a year later, made everyday goods inaccessible and the national currency all but worthless. Goran Tomasevic/The Globe and Mail



Oct. 25-27: Journalists under fire

In the early hours of Oct. 25, about 18 TV journalists were settled in for the night at the Hasbaya Village Club, a guest house in southeastern Lebanon. An Israeli strike, fired without warning at about 3 a.m., killed three journalists in their sleep: broadcast technician Mohammed Rida and cameraman Ghassan Najjar from Beirut-based Al-Mayadeen TV and Wissam Qassim from the Hezbollah TV network Al-Manar. Mr. Tomasevic travelled to Mr. Najjar’s funeral later that day, while press advocacy groups called for answers from Israel.

The next day, global attention shifted to Israel’s air strikes on military installations near Tehran and western Iran, the long-awaited retaliation for the Iranian missile barrage against Israel on Oct. 1. Tehran said there was “limited damage,” somewhat easing fears of a regional escalation.

TV cameraman Ghassan Najjar was killed in Hasbaya, but his body returned to Beirut for burial in the main Hezbollah shrine. Many militants are buried here, their graves marked with portraits and party flags. Goran Tomasevic/The Globe and Mail
As people came to mourn Mr. Najjar, his employer, Al-Mayadeen, accused Israel of deliberately targeting guest houses where he was staying. Al-Mayadeen is an independent, pan-Arab and pro-Iran network. Al-Manar, which Hezbollah owns, also lost a cameraman. Goran Tomasevic/The Globe and Mail
When Mr. Tomasevic and his fixer returned to the south, they found this abandoned horse wandering streets that humans had long since fled. ‘It’s surreal. Unlike anything I’ve seen in past assignments,’ he said. ‘Imagine seeing a horse inside a store stall. Just surreal.’ Goran Tomasevic/The Globe and Mail



Oct. 28-30: ‘We know that the battle may be long’

As another week of war began, Lebanese and U.S. officials grew more publicly optimistic that the fighting could soon stop. Israeli broadcaster Kan published what it said was a leaked U.S. proposal for a 60-day truce. Mr. Mikati, emboldened by talks with a U.S. envoy, said on Oct. 30 that a truce could begin within “hours.” It did not. Meanwhile, Hezbollah’s new leader, Naim Qassem, said the fighting would continue until the terms of a ceasefire are acceptable to the group: “What we are doing is the bare minimum. … We know that the battle may be long.”

Men search the rubble on Oct. 30 in Tyre, an ancient port city listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This week was the first time Israel evacuation orders reached parts of Tyre, where the IDF said it was targeting Hezbollah command centres. Goran Tomasevic/The Globe and Mail
In the south, a Lebanese army checkpoint lies abandoned and a Hezbollah rocket launcher lies destroyed. Elsewhere, Hezbollah forces were regrouping under the leadership of Naim Qassem, chosen by its Shura Council to replace Mr. Nasrallah. Goran Tomasevic/The Globe and Mail
When locals in Tyre accused this man of looting the homes of displaced people, he was strapped to a pole at a bus roundabout with a ‘thief’ sign taped to his chest. Goran Tomasevic/The Globe and Mail

Oct. 31: The parting shot

It was “a beautiful, sunny day,” Mr. Tomasevic says of his final shoot in a southern village being shelled from Israel. On the other side of the border, this would be the deadliest day for civilians since the start of ground operations in Lebanon. Hezbollah rockets killed seven people, including four foreign workers.

Soldiers refused to let Mr. Tomasevic through a checkpoint, and he missed a shot of Lebanese tanks withdrawing. He helped some animals find water. His last photo is of an Israeli air strike, its column of smoke obscuring the horizon.

Open this photo in gallery:

Goran Tomasevic/The Globe and Mail


With reports from Eric Reguly, Associated Press and Reuters

Photo editing by Solana Cain

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