Canadian equestrian Karl Slezak and horse Hot Bobo have been taking the sights at the Palace of Versailles, the French chateau that is playing host to Olympic equestrian events. 'It’s breathtaking,' Mr. Slezak says.
Horses have been a strong presence at the Palace of Versailles ever since Louis XIII built a hunting lodge on the site in 1623, working in service of the royal family or as symbols of power and wealth. Now, at the Paris Olympics, the magnificent grounds surrounding the iconic château that Louis and his son would later build are playing host to equestrian, where horses are not just emblems of royal prestige but stars of the show, vying for the Olympic podium and drawing huge crowds.
As a venue for the Games, Versailles is a feast for the eyes. “It’s breathtaking,” said Karl Slezak from Tottenham, Ont., after riding aboard Hot Bobo in the cross-country portion of the eventing competition, a winding trek that sees the horses navigate gorgeous fountains, challenging obstacles throughout the woods and gardens and a pontoon bridge spanning the Grand Canal.
“Just being able to stand on the pontoon and look back at the palace,” Slezak added. “You can feel the history.”
The former royal residence is a UNESCO World Heritage site, so Olympic organizers are being careful not to leave any lasting damage.
Versailles is a world-renowned cultural site that welcomes millions of visitors each year. It was home to the court of Louis XIV and became the epicentre of French royal life.
Temporary installations for modern, world-class equestrian have been erected to blend into the historic setting, without harming the UNESCO World Heritage Site.
In addition to the cross-country course, organizers have also erected a temporary arena to the west of the Grand Canal, at the heart of the palace’s gardens, including several grandstands for dressage and showjumping events, plus the modern pentathlon. Even the horse barns are pop-ups.
After the Olympics and Paralympics, it will all be removed.
Jessica Phoenix, a third-time Olympian, says she's been impressed with these Games and the experience of competing at Versailles.
“This is the best Olympics I have ever taken part in – the venue, the jumps, the design, the people, the way this country is so welcoming, it is second to none,” said Jessica Phoenix of Canada’s eventing team, a third-time Olympian from Uxbridge, Ont., riding Freedom GS. “To be able to gallop through Versailles is indescribable.”
French course designer Pierre Le Goupil incorporated patriotic elements into the obstacles on the cross-country course that are both challenging and visually fascinating. The horses charge through fountains. There are obstacles with library and reading themes (a nod to Marie Antoinette), as well as a giant set of deer antlers that horses must leap through (reflecting the site’s hunting history).
“France has been able to do incredible things with historical properties,” said James Hood, Equestrian Canada’s high performance director. “The course designer, Pierre, and the course builders have done an incredible job both creating challenge for the athletes safely but also within the restrictions of working in a historical property.”
Crowds of spectators turned out on July 28 to see the cross-country events. Riders and their horses compete for the highest scores as they navigate an array of obstacles, on a route that spans the palace's Grand Canal.
The events have drawn big crowds – especially Sunday’s, which felt like a golf major, with dense packs of people lining the ropes and cheering wildly for their favourite competitors. Fans hiked through the woods and lounged in the grass by the canal’s edge.
“It’s just the most incredible venue – the stadium, the scenery, the cross-country course, which is just a masterpiece,” New Zealand’s Clarke Johnston said. “I think [Le Goupil] has just done a magical job.”
The horses thundered through the 5,149-metre course, one after another, four minutes apart, taking roughly nine minutes each to complete it. Anticipation built as audiences huddled near every obstacle and steadied their phones to take a photo, waiting for the sound of pounding hooves. The jumps were followed by huge cheers.
“When French riders go, you can hear where the rider is on the course from the barns,” Phoenix said.
The French fans hollered, “Allez!”
“We were expecting something extraordinary, but not as much as this,” said French rider Nicolas Touzaint of the crowds. “It’s quite incredible. I’m so impressed.”
An Olympic staff rider lets a spectator pet one of the horses. Organizers have been careful to keep horses safe from the heat and injuries they might face along the obstacle course.
Olympians from all over the world appreciate the prestige of the venue. “I’ve dreamed of coming to this Olympics for a long time,” American Elisabeth Halliday said. “To walk around and be standing on a cross-country jump and see the Palace of Versailles and recognize that we’re actually in those grounds. It’s something I will never experience again in my life, and it’s a moment that I will cherish.”
Some 60 per cent of the cross-country course in Versailles is set in the shade, to help keep the horses from overheating. There are footing specialists stationed at every obstacle, rapidly repairing divots to ensure the horses’ safety.
The barn temperature at Versailles is meticulously monitored to keep the horses comfortable amid heatwaves. The animals have all the modern regenerative therapies, including ice baths, chiropractic and massage services and red-light therapy for blood flow.
Like some human athletes, many of the horses seem to be motivated by the cheers and the attention. “He absolutely loved the packed crowds from start to finish,” said Great Britain rider Tom McEwen of his horse JL Dublin. “It felt like a hundred thousand. I’m sure it’s not, but having them lined up on the jumps, through the jumps, past the jumps. There’s noise, and the horse is absolutely loving it, and it just shows why this is just the most amazing sport.”
On Monday, the eventing competition wrapped up with the same riders and horses in the jumping portion, inside the arena. McEwen and Team GB earned gold in the team event – their fourth straight team eventing title. France took silver, and Japan the bronze.
Equestrian events at the Paris Olympics run through Aug. 6.