Explore Canada with a group of tourists trekking from Toronto to PEI and back
By Ian Brown and Nam Phi Dang
The Globe and Mail –
Published
Day 1
Fifty tourists and a $700,000 bus set off from Toronto's Chinatown for a whirlwind first day: Seven hours to Ottawa, some quick sightseeing at Parliament Hill and the Canadian Museum of Nature, then two-and-a-half hours to Montreal. A coach tour rarely stops for breath.
June 14, 6:06am
Chinatown – Toronto, Ontario
June 14, 6:24am
Toronto, Ontario.
June 14, 1:24pm
Centre Block on Parliament Hill – Ottawa, Ontario
June 14, 2:26pm
Canadian Museum of Nature – Ottawa, Ontario
June 14, 6:45pm
Cirque du Soleil – Montréal, Québec
“Some people think bus tours are purgatory on wheels. You see them in all countries and in every notable place, disgorging their curious and bewildered riders. I’ve always thought, what’s that like?”
— Ian Brown
Day 2
Breakfast at 6 a.m. (McDonald’s), baggage loading at 6:45, departure at 7. Next stop, New Brunswick. Passengers are allowed off the bus only in strictly controlled bursts. They take advantage of every moment in ways we who live here sometimes don't.
June 15, 8:26am
Québec City, Québec
June 15, 1:39pm
Grand Falls – Victoria County, New Brunswick
June 15, 1:45pm
Grand Falls – Victoria County, New Brunswick
June 15, 1:49pm
Statue of Malobiannah – Grand Falls, New Brunswick
June 15, 3:15pm
Hartland Bridge – Hartland, New Brunswick
June 15, 4:13pm
Covered Bridge Potato Chip Company – Hartland, New Brunswick
“There’s an ancient expression for the perils of rushing through a country: Ride a horse to look at the flowers. It is sometimes attributed to Li Bai, a poet of the Tang Dynasty, the last time China dominated the known world.”
— Ian Brown
Day 3
The group races through Nova Scotia, with some worrying they're getting only cursory history of the land they're visiting. “Of course, I want more history, for my son,” Alice Xu says. After Halifax, the group finds a busy scene at Peggys Cove. Ian Brown is treated to the worst lobster he's ever eaten.
June 16, 7:29am
Nappan – Cumberland County, Nova Scotia
June 16, 10:37am
Maritime Museum of the Atlantic – Halifax, Nova Scotia
June 16, 1:01pm
Peggys Cove – St. Margarets Bay, Nova Scotia
June 16, 1:19pm
Peggys Point Lighthouse – St. Margarets Bay, Nova Scotia
June 16, 2:15pm
Peggys Cove – St. Margarets Bay, Nova Scotia
June 16, 4:46pm
Halifax, Nova Scotia
“The lobster was the worst I’ve ever eaten. It was the smallest legal lobster I’ve ever seen, and so overcooked and vulcanized it could have been used as a Yanomami slingshot.”
— Ian Brown
Day 4
A group of tourists travelling across Canada, speaking another language, can understand the country only by what they can see and experience. But that concentrates the experience as well: The Hopewell Rocks at low tide feel like the Bay of Fundy's secret brain.
June 17, 11:25am
Hopewell Rocks – Hopewell Cape, New Brunswick
June 17, 3:09pm
Port Borden Front Range Lighthouse/Confederation Bridge – Borden-Carleton, Prince Edward Island
June 17, 4:10pm
Green Gables Heritage Place – Cavendish, Prince Edward Island
June 17, 6:42pm
Cavendish Beach – Cavendish, Prince Edward Island
June 17, 6:48pm
Cavendish Beach – Cavendish, Prince Edward Island
June 17, 7:04pm
Cavendish Beach – Cavendish, Prince Edward Island
“If you try to understand the country not just as a pretty illusion, but as a complicated morass of struggle and power and failure and sadness and also of beauty and yearning and hope and even humour, it’s more interesting, and certainly more realistic.”
— Ian Brown
Day 5
The bus tourists from mainland China say they like Canada's clean air, plentiful water, front gardens and green trees that stretch forever on either side of the highway. Most Canadians take those gifts for granted.
June 18, 9:26am
Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island
June 18, 10:43am
Anne of Green Gable dress up – Borden-Carleton, Prince Edward Island
June 18, 11:52am
First car across Confederation Bridge – Borden-Carleton, Prince Edward Island
June 18, 2:19pm
World's Largest Lobster – Shediac, Westmorland County, New Brunswick
June 18, 3:13pm
Borden-Carleton, Prince Edward Island
June 18, 5:13pm
Reversing Falls – Saint John, New Brunswick
“Some people want to understand the country. Some want to experience it. Both begin by witnessing it. That is the way of the bus.”
— Ian Brown
Day 6
The travellers fall in love with Quebec City, looking down from the public observation deck at a St. Lawrence River that looks like a giant vein. Dinner across from the Château Frontenac is Old Quebec to the point of nausea: there’s a man in a red cap inside playing Que Sera, Sera on an accordion.
June 19, 7:07am
Québec City, Québec
June 19, 2:01pm
Aquarium du Québec – Québec City, Québec
June 19, 2:13pm
Aquarium du Québec – Québec City, Québec
June 19, 3:41pm
Observatoire de la Capitale – Québec City, Québec
June 19, 3:43pm
Observatoire de la Capitale – Québec City, Québec
June 19, 4:28pm
Old Québec City – Québec City, Québec
“Whatever you think your country is supposed to represent, however holy its clichés have become, all newcomers – even tourists passing through quickly – make it their own. The bus will become their country, their temporary nation.”
— Ian Brown
Day 7
On the last day, the travellers cruise around the Thousand Islands near Gananoque. The bus becomes, by the end of the trip, an island of reassurance for its riders - a way to navigate its newness and uncertainty in the company of like-minded friends.