The East End's grand reopening

The entire 14-kilometre length of Queen Street has always been essential to downtown Toronto – a crucial thoroughfare for art, shopping and, well, life. And the street's west side, and the West End in general, has always had a bit more cool – more grit, more glam and just a little bit more, well, life. This truism has held for the past two decades of gentrification, even as former goth bars became Starbucks and the tiniest of West End apartments began demanding astronomical rents.

The East End changed, too – but quietly, since it's always been a lovely place to live, full of playgrounds and local bakeries and with quick access to Lake Ontario. And now that former hidden gems in the West End are cologne-drenched crime scenes, the understated east side of Queen is beginning to bloom. Its draw is what residents have known all along: Cool is a way of being, not a thing you can buy, and while popularity is fun for a minute, you really just need a handful of good friends.

What that means in practice is that Riverside, Queen Street East's most accessible neighbourhood, is becoming a destination for both city dwellers and those further afield.

The moment is the reopening of the truly magnificent 126-year-old Broadview Hotel, which underwent a major renovation over the past three years at a cost of $24-million. Throngs of people have been streaming east to see the Toronto landmark, and they keep coming back to enjoy the neighbourhood's other, formerly exclusive charms.

Stay

The Broadview Hotel

While a few strategically placed stripper poles speak to the hotel's late-20th-century incarnation as host to the infamous Jilly's, most of the interior renovation has eschewed a vintage vibe in favour of contemporary detailing. The most modern space is a brand-new glass-boxed rooftop restaurant and patio. Since the hotel's opening in mid-July, guests have been jockeying to check out the stunning 360-degree view of the city while enjoying cocktails and casual snacks.

History fans need not fear, as the classic red-brick façade has been lovingly restored and an old fire escape removed, all the better to admire the terracotta faces and gargoyles.

Plus, a soon-to-open fine-dining restaurant on the main floor called The Civic will have a card that nods to upscale hotel meals of yore – for inspiration, food directors Erik Joyal and John Sinopoli visited the New York Public Library to pore over old menus from the King Edward, the Waldorf-Astoria and other Victorian-era hot spots.

The reopening of the Broadview was a hotly anticipated east-side moment, and there are meaningful local touches scattered throughout the space.

Trendy mini-succulents and other plants are from Quince Flowers just a block west, much of the artwork is from Tatar Art Projects in Corktown and the Tiny Record Shop a block east has supplied vinyl for the turntables found in each of the 58 rooms, which start at $309.

The smallest of those is 325 square feet, while the corner suite is 700 square feet with two walls of windows.

Rooms have king-sized beds (and leather-covered headboards with clever pop-out reading lights), marble showers and a luxe but livable feel.

106 Broadview Ave., 416-362-8439, thebroadviewhotel.ca

Shop

Good Neighbour

Another local partner of the hotel, supplying it with minibar goodies and curiosities. The two-storey shop is full of understated streetwear and is a good neighbour to Canadian designers and those who want to patronize them, with denim by Naked and Famous, leather handbags from Rebecca Minkoff and lingerie by Fortnight.

935 Queen St. E., 416-406-4663, goodnbr.com

Irish Design House

A trove of well-made, artisanal goods including chunky cable-knit sweaters and cozy cashmere scarfs for the imminent winter. There are lots of gift-y things if you're in need, such as chocolates, ceramics, handmade soaps and jewellery, all from the homeland save a few cheeky Toronto T-shirts.

756 Queen St. E., 426-565-5505, theirishdesignhouse.com

Queen Books

An airy, friendly new addition to the neighbourhood that's well stocked with Canadian offerings and often invites local authors in for readings. The sizable children's and young adult section offers gems from a wide diversity of writers and illustrators, offering beautiful, meaningful stories for every kind of reader (plus toys for little ones to play with as you browse).

914 Queen St. E., 416-778-5053, queenbooks.ca

Wonder Pens

In an old warehouse just off the main strip is this special place for penmanship nerds who demand the very best. There are Japanese and European pens and notebooks from brands such as Midori, Life, Clairefontaine and Caran d'Ache, plus wax seals and calligraphy nibs for the particularly serious.

250 Carlaw Ave., Unit 105, 416-799-5935, wonderpens.ca

Eat and drink

Eastbound Brewing Co.

One of a number of craft breweries to emerge in the East End over the past few years. The tasting room offers pub food as well as a long line of taps – some pouring beers made on site, some presenting the offerings of other Ontario brewers and cider makers.

700 Queen St. E., 416-901-1299, eastboundbeer.com

Wong's Ice Cream

Gentrification on Gerrard Street East is displacing many historical Asian businesses, but this treat shop merges old and new. Black sesame ice cream dotted with salted duck yolk is a delicious take on tiger tail, while Hong Kong milk tea is a simple and creamy option for the less adventurous.

617 Gerrard St. E., 416-778-8883

White Lily

The diner that dreams are made of, offering kid-friendly, satisfying dishes made from scratch alongside decent, well-priced wine and beer. Get the charred broccoli with sausage gravy. Expect a lineup at brunch.

678 Queen St. E., 416-901-7800, whitelilydiner.ca

Local secrets

Drake mini-tour

Fans can start at De Grassi Street, which gave its name to the beloved series – although there's no actual junior high, the street signs are worth an Instagram snap. A block east, at Queen and Morse streets, is Mercury Espresso ( 647-435-4779), the setting for Drizzy's lonely coffee during his "mini-feature" Jungle. From there, head north to Carlaw Avenue and Gerrard Street East for chunes and vibes at the Real Jerk (842 Gerrard St. E., 416-463-6055, therealjerk.com), the setting of Rihanna's Work video and one of the city's veteran Jamaican restaurants.

Shoe-making lessons

Repeat or long-term visitors with a taste for the bespoke would do well to check out Nasser Vies's crowded little studio, where he's been making custom shoes for so long that the phone number on his window doesn't include an area code. He can craft you a pair of calf-skin wingtips or oxfords with his own hands or teach you how to do it yourself – but he really, really doesn't like to be rushed.

93 Lewis St., 416-778-7012, nasserviesshoes.com