Why visit Salzburg? For 70 per cent of visitors to Austria’s fourth-largest city, the answer is simple: The Sound of Music. Much of the 1965 classic was filmed in or near here, and each year, thousands of Edelweiss-singing, kitten-whisker-loving, dirndl-dreaming devotees arrive to take themed bus tours and recreate famous scenes. This summer Sound of Music mania will hit critical mass, as fans celebrate the 50th anniversary of the film.
Perhaps, then, a better question to ask is: Why visit Salzburg if The Sound of Music is not one of your favourite things?
It was the Alps that lured me last summer, while on a solo trip around Europe. I longed for Switzerland, but reasonably priced hotels were all booked. Salzburg was the most feasible runner-up that still offered a chance to get close to those magnificent peaks. I wasn’t thrilled with this Plan B – especially since I’ve never understood the allure of those singing kids – but over the next four days I was forced to admit, begrudgingly, that the city has its charms: storybook good looks, a rich history and lots of schnitzel.
I even warmed to those Rodgers and Hammerstein songs (probably because the movie seemed to always be on at my hotel).
So here are my Salzburg highlights – relatively free of movie locations, but set to the theme of Do-Re-Mi, because, honestly, that film is just inescapable.
Doe, a deer, a female deer: Hellbrunn Palace & Trick Fountains
Hellbrunn, built in the early 1600s, was the summer palace of Markus Sittikus. He was the Prince-Archbishop of Salzburg – and also, evidence suggests, a real jerk. It was not enough for him to build a baroque villa just for day use, raise rare white deer on the vast grounds and throw lavish parties. No, Sittikus wanted to make his place truly stand out, so he hired sculptors to create fountains that spray water at unsuspecting visitors. Cold streams shoot out of stag heads, walkways and even stone chairs upon which dinner guests would sit. (Pity the female attendee who wore white.)
Sarcasm aside, touring the grounds (which connect to the Salzburg Zoo) is a delightful way to spend an afternoon – just ignore the guide when he urges, “Come take a closer look.” hellbrunn.at
Ray, a drop of golden sun: Kapitelplatz
Most visitors walk through this square on their way to the funicular and fortress. But it’s worth pausing, grabbing a seat and taking in the scene. The star is Sphaera, a 2007 sculpture by German artist Stephan Balkenhol that depicts a man standing atop a gleaming nine-metre-high gold orb. (His smaller female counterpart is tucked into a wall in the Toscaninihof courtyard.) At its base a chessboard is painted onto the ground, and it’s not uncommon to see people playing a game with the knee-high pieces. Shopping stalls abound, and it all combines to create a bit of modernity and freshness in a city so steeped in history.
Me, a name I call myself: DomQuartier
It’s fun to pretend a whole part of town is named after me, but the reality is “dom” means cathedral in German. This baroque complex, off Kapitelplatz, reopened last May as a collection of five historical attractions, including the Cathedral Museum of Salzburg, St. Peter’s Abbey and residences of the prince-archbishops, who ruled the city until the 1800s. It is the first time in 200 years that visitors, who follow a somewhat confusing circular route, have been able to access this much of Salzburg’s former power centre. Highlights include the opulent palace staterooms, a hallway of curiosity cabinets and the chance to peer down into the nave of the Salzburg Cathedral from the Organ Gallery. Admirers of religious art and artifacts will want to spend hours here, admiring several collections that span more than 1,000 years. domquartier.at
Far, a long, long way to run: Dachstein Ice Cave
When visiting Salzburg, you have your choice of two ice caves: Werfen and Dachstein. Werfen is closer and grander. But I recommend Dachstein, about 80 kilometres away, mainly for the journey itself: Leave early and make it a full day trip. By car or bus, you will pass through Austria’s Lake District, a series of stunning emerald alpine lakes flanked by breathtaking mountains and fairy-tale worthy resort towns. The most famous of these is Hallstatt, named to the UNESCO World Heritage list thanks in part to its “visual drama.” Once at Dachstein you can take a 50-minute tour of the ice cave, where water running in from the mountain plateau freezes into magnificent structures both hanging from the ceiling and rising from the floor. (Yes, it’s cold. Bring at least a sweater and a hat.) If you’re not afraid of heights, you can take the cable car further up to peer down from the Five Fingers lookouts, which jut over a 400-metre drop. dachstein-salzkammergut.com
Sew, a needle pulling thread: Marionette Museum T
he Salzburg Fortress, built in 1077, towers over the city and is a large part of why Salzburg looks so magnificent in photos. So stepping foot in it (after a fun funicular ride) is a letdown. You can wander the grounds freely – and snap shots of the city below – but to go inside you must take a guided tour. Most of the rooms are empty, and the one that everyone waits for – the so-called torture room – is merely a staged collection of a few paltry items. Needless to say, I did not have high hopes for the puppet museum included with admission. Mistake! I was most taken with the horror collection (evil monkeys, skull-headed ghosts), but even the more traditional marionettes, with tiny movable hands and detailed costumes, made me stop and stare. The craftsmanship can’t help but impress.
La, a note to follow Sew: Salzburger Schlosskonzerte
Before Maria there was Mozart. Wolfgang was born here in 1756, and today his legacy lives on in small round chocolate balls, red-coated rubber ducks and, yes, classical performances. Even if classical music isn’t your thing, it seems a shame to visit this city without experiencing at least a bit of his genius. Many of the countless concerts are strictly for tourists, but if you don’t have an expert ear, they’ll suffice. Salzburger Schlosskonzerte puts on more than 230 performances a year in the Marble Hall of Mirabell Palace, once a ballroom for the prince-archbishops. And guess who performed here as a child? Mozart. That’s “authentic” enough for me. www.salzburger-schlosskonzerte.at
Tea, a drink with jam and bread: Eagle’s Nest
What do you get a dictator who has everything? Why, a vacation home perched 1,834 metres up in the Alps, of course. Eagle’s Nest, or Kehlsteinhaus, was commissioned by Martin Bormann as a 50th birthday gift for Hitler on behalf of the Nazi Party. But the Fuhrer seldom used it: He was too afraid of heights, so the story goes. Today it operates as a restaurant, where you can enjoy tea, jam and bread – but the warm apple strudel with vanilla sauce sounds more delicious. You can also skip the snack and head straight for the path that takes you even higher into the clouds. kehlsteinhaus.de
That will bring us back to Do
Just do it already. Say yes to Salzburg. Because as you look across the endless snow-capped peaks, you’ll see that the hills are alive with the sound of … dang it!