Walking the walls that enclose Dubrovnik’s old city is a magical experience. Gazing over the orange-tiled roofs, medieval fortresses and labyrinth of laneways from 25 metres above, it’s no wonder Game of Thrones films here or that it’s named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. But after yet another elbow from a fellow tourist trying to capture the perfect selfie, the claustrophobia sets in and you can’t help but feel it’s time to escape. Recapture the magic of the region by escaping to Hotel Mlini.
Location, location
A 20-minute drive or 30-minute boat ride along the Dubrovnik Riviera will whisk you away to the sleepy village of Mlini. Stroll around town and you’ll be treated to the stunning turquoise waters of the Adriatic Sea, 19th-century stone mills used to grind olives (Mlini means mills), a towering tree that, a sign states, dates back to 1742, and imposing cliffs to watch the sun rise and set behind. There are no souvenir shops or pushy tour guides trying to sign you up for an excursion (though tours are available should you choose to seek them out). Your biggest bother is likely to be an over-friendly dog or cat, looking for some affection.
Design
Hotel Mlini underwent a complete overhaul in 2015 and it’s clear the designers wanted to bring the feel of the Adriatic Sea inside its 85 spacious rooms and lobby area. Shades of blue feature prominently, from the art, furniture, linens and even the freshly cut flowers. And the real thing is never far away. All rooms have a balcony, most with views of the Adriatic.
Best amenity
The complementary buffet breakfast is the best way to start your day. Whether you’re trying to eat healthy (fresh fruit, granola and yogurt bar) or want to indulge (bacon-wrapped quiche, Nutella-filled doughnuts) there is a wide selection to choose from that changes each morning. Take it out to the patio to enjoy with views of the sea and sounds of chirping birds.
A close second: You can’t connect to the hotel’s free WiFi by the pool. It’s refreshing. Instead of trying to capture the perfect Instagram image (it’s tempting, the pool overlooks those turquoise waters and is nestled below tree-lined mountains) guests can truly unwind, unplug and appreciate the surrounding beauty.
If I could change one thing
The pool is located at Hotel Mlini’s sister property, a short walk away, which isn’t a big deal. But there’s no poolside towel service. Instead you have to climb the stairs to the sister hotel and sign it out from the gym. It’s a minor, but unnecessary, annoyance.
Who you’ll meet
Couples of all ages looking for a romantic getaway and families with kids taking advantage of the giant pool.
Eat in or eat out
The hotel’s five restaurants take advantage of Mlini’s historic and gorgeous surroundings. Be sure to have dinner at Konoba Astarea, where the terrace sits alongside a 16th-century church and where you’ll feast on fresh, Dalmatian-style fish and other seafood.
Take a break from lounging at the pool for snacks at the beach bar and do not skip the hotel’s seaside pizzeria, which offers live music in the evenings and gelato. Room service is not advertised, but is available by calling the lobby bar. To feel like a local (there’s only 1,000 of them), head to the café/bar beside the hotel for a pint of the local beer Ozujsko, or to find out why Croatian coffee is so revered.
Hotel Mlini, Setaliste Marka Marojice, Mlini, Croatia, dubrovnik-riviera-hotels.hr; 85 rooms from €110 ($158) a night in low season, €160 ($230) a night in high season.
The writer was a guest of the hotel.