Hotel Ella
1900 Rio Grande St., Austin; hotelella.com. 47 rooms starting at $175 (U.S.).
“Keep Austin weird,” the saying goes – but what if your taste is more classic than quirk? Hotel Ella, a multimillion-dollar refurbishment of an iconic Greek Revival mansion, is a bastion of serenity in the so-called Live Music Capital of the World.
Once the long-time home of the Wooten family, who helped found the University of Texas, the landmark is now one of the city’s most charming boutique hotels.
Design
The property’s first major renovation, in 1910, just 10 years after its construction, saw a simple house turned into a proper mansion. The 10 large stone columns (by the same carver hired by the Vanderbilts for their legendary Biltmore House in North Carolina) still stand. Room interiors are less grand, but still elegant. A palette of blues and greys is punched up by bold, custom-made pieces, such as a striking mustard settee and curvaceous gilded side tables. The lovely bones of the house are best experienced in the suites, with features such as original fireplaces and access to the veranda balcony.
Location, location
Hotel Ella is removed from the rowdy nightlife of 6th Street and the hipster-chic of South Congress in both mentality and actual distance. If beer pong and artisanal mustaches no longer thrill you, this is probably a good thing.
The closest notable neighbourhood is downtown, just a few blocks south. But, really, Austin is not a large city, and it is a relatively short ride to most attractions – including the State Capitol and Austin Convention Center – in one of the hotel’s house cars, which are available first-come, first-served for trips within a three-mile radius. Don’t overlook this perk. For all of its progressive qualities, Austin has one thing in common with the rest of Texas: It is not tops for walkability.
If I Could Change One Thing
The small bathroom in my deluxe king room was far from stately. The bad lighting made the walls appear a depressing beige and the fixtures were nothing special, strongly resembling those I’ve seen on my many Home Depot runs. Suites feature spacious loos with walk-in Carrara marble showers, so if that kind of thing is important to you, consider upgrading.
Best Amenity
The proprieters have done a good job at identifying the city’s drawbacks. Besides the walkability issue (see above), Austin’s other negative is that it is freaking hot and dry for at least half the year. And while the help-yourself dispensers of chilled cucumber water are definitely welcome, the courtyard lap pool is heaven. At night, when it glows blue, it is as striking as it is refreshing.
Eat In or Eat Out
Goodall’s Kitchen & Bar serves up American standards such as burgers ($16), roasted beet salad ($10) and the now ubiquitous charcuterie ($14). It’s all fine, but in a city brimming with funky food trucks and some of the best barbecue in the world, I suggest broadening your horizons. But do stop in at the dark but cozy Parlor Bar, where the bartender takes great pride in getting cocktails just right.
Whom You’ll Meet
Austin is the home of Whole Foods. Think of the non-pretentious thirtysomethings you know who shop there. That’s who is staying at Hotel Ella. Still up for some fun, but not too much; into organic foods, but not beyond pigging-out on some ribs. Of course, don’t be surprised if some tie-dyed hippie wanders in. This is Austin, after all.
The writer was a guest of the hotel.