The River Danube, which is the second longest river in Europe, flows through 10 countries as well as the city of Vienna.Christian Stemper/WienTourismus/Supplied
Biking on the winding path, I could finally hear myself think. On my left, small rustic cottages with blooming rose gardens whizzed by. On my right, an occasional break in the bushes revealed the sparkling Alte Danube river, bikini-clad teens and seniors soaking in the sun while couples drifted in boats with sparkling wine in hand. We were collectively enjoying the tranquility of this summer day in an idyllic cottage-country oasis – only a 15-minute subway ride from Vienna’s central downtown.
Before arriving in the Austrian capital, I had already been in Europe for two weeks, moving to a new town every couple of days, trying to see as many sites as possible. This hurried approach quickly led to exhaustion (though drowsily forgetting my luggage on a bus definitely woke me up). Vienna was the breath of fresh, floral air I needed to remind me of the joys of travelling at an easier pace. And it was ideal timing: This year marks 150 years since the Vienna World Fair, which heralded the building of its urban structure, train line, water pipeline and museums – a few things that contribute to its status as the “most livable city in the world” today (year after year, it tops Economist Intelligence Unit’s annual Global Liveability Index based on its analysis of stability, health care, culture and environment, education and infrastructure). The city has much to admire and learn from, but what I found most remarkable was the Austrian way of life, or Gemütlichkeit, which doesn’t have a direct English translation but represents a set of traits supposedly unique to the Austrian culture: warmth, friendliness, coziness, kicking back with a glass of wine or cup of coffee, savouring the moment, and not worrying too much.
The view from city hall.Gregor Hofbauer/WienTourismus/Supplied
Embracing this sentiment, I delighted in perusing the First District’s quaint historic coffee houses such as Café Diglas, and stumbling on Fenster Cafe, window service in an old university-quarters alley. I ordered the orange juice iced coffee – a questionable decision, but a local in line highly recommended it and even offered to let me taste his drink (I politely declined). I walked the busy pedestrian shopping streets, past cathedrals and imperial palaces, and after an entire day spent admiring Klimt’s masterpieces at the Belvedere palace and the Leopold museum, I dozed off in one of the city’s many well-kept parks. I could understand now how Billy Joel was inspired by this city to write a song about slowing down, and not hurrying through life: “It’s okay to lose a day or two … Vienna waits for you.” So, it’s a shame that most who visit will leave after squeezing the main attractions into a couple of days. To get a taste of living as the Viennese do, I needed to go beyond the tourist trail, leave the city centre behind and head to the Danube.
The River Danube, which is the second-longest river in Europe, flows through 10 countries as well as the city. It is omnipresent here and a vital part of the culture. Vienna’s 65 kilometres of wild swimming areas provide a popular getaway for city-dwellers. And they’re closer to downtown than the average Canadian’s daily work commute: A six-minute subway ride (Line U1 and U6 from Stephansplatz to Donauinsel) will bring you to the 3.9 square-kilometre Danube Island.
Summer days at Old Danube.Christian Stemper/WienTourismus/Supplied
To see more and walk less, I took a bike tour, pedalling along some of the 135 kilometres of trails on the island, and ending up at the Old Danube, or Alte Donau in German. This former arm of the Danube was turned into an oxbow lake around 150 years ago, and has more than a kilometre of sandy shores. We parked our bikes at Marina Hofbauer, and set off on a slow ride on a small electric boat. Drinking chilled prosecco over the calm waters, we passed many people lounging on Meine Insel, or floating islands about the size of a boat dock. For 50 euros an hour, they sat on sofas or round daybeds anchored in the middle of the lake, eating and drinking under a shade canopy, then jumping in to cool off. I made a note to try this on my next visit.
From the marina, we walked to the waterside restaurant Zur Alten Kaisermühle. While the sun set over the waterfront terrace, we dined on Austrian specialties like locally sourced char, refreshing wild berries and ice cream flavoured with a local chocolate candy. After a long day of biking and outdoor bliss, it was a relief that the comforts of my hotel and city life were only a short transit ride away.
Vienna’s public transit system is easy and convenient to use.Paul Bauer/WienTourismus/Supplied
If you go
Year-round flights are available on both Air Canada from Toronto and Austrian Airlines from Montreal.
Where to stay: The modern SO/ Vienna hotel in the Second District overlooks the Danube Canal in central Vienna for grand views of the city – especially the 360-degree view at DAS Loft, the hotel’s rooftop restaurant. The location is ideal for enjoying waterside delights such as an Austrian beer while your feet dangle over the canal. Rooms from $360 CA; so-hotels.com
Getting around: Vienna’s public-transit system is easy and convenient to use. Pick up a Vienna City Card, which includes unlimited transportation (the City Airport Train, a 15-minute bullet train to the city centre, costs extra) and it also offers discounts on attractions and restaurants. viennacitycard.at
Day trip: Only an hour from the city, discover the resort village of Reichenau an der Rax in the Lower Austrian Styrian Alps. The area is especially clean and unpolluted, and since it is home to the source of Vienna’s mountain spring water, the local government is careful to keep it this way. A hiking trail along the “Wiener Wasserleitungsweg” or “Viennese water supply route” starts at Hirschwang an der Rax. It takes you through rugged rock faces to views of the crystal-clear Schwarza River flowing through the forest, and gravel banks where you can dip your toes, and ends at Kaiserbrunn, the source of the first Vienna water pipeline.
Unwind: You can bathe in the sulphurous springs that run under the city of Vienna at Therme Wien, a 15-minute ride on the U-Bahn Stephansplatz in central Vienna. With a variety of indoor and outdoor pools and relaxing areas, you can spend an entire day making the most of spas (with a range of beauty treatments and massages). Or you can visit for a few hours at the end of a long day of exploring the city, as I did. The saunas infused with scents of lemongrass or acacia blossom helped me unwind on the last day of my trip. thermewien.at
People lounge on Meine Insel, or floating islands.Supplied
This writer was a guest of the Vienna Tourist Board. The organization did not review or approve this article.