The Klahoose Wilderness Resort in Desolation Sound, B.C.Klahoose Wilderness Resort
It took exactly one hour after arriving at Klahoose Wilderness Resort in Desolation Sound, British Columbia, to put its promise of “if whales blow, we’ll go” to the test.
No sooner had staff completed a wildlife safety briefing in the resort’s main lodge than the call rang out – whales! I sprinted to the boat with hastily assembled camera gear in tow, excited and eager to witness the glistening fins and tails of a family of humpbacks feeding in the temperate waters of the sound.
I couldn’t have asked for a more exhilarating welcome to begin four days of wildlife viewing and cultural experiences at this remote, off-grid lodge. Klahoose offers guests immersive exploration in a pristine region rich in diverse ecosystems and Indigenous heritage.
Why you should visit
The resort is located on the lands of the Klahoose people, about an hour’s boat ride north of the former fishing village of Lund on B.C.’s Sunshine Coast. To get to Lund, which marks Mile 0 on Highway 101, you can drive via BC Ferries from Vancouver (about 5-6 hours) or fly to Powell River and grab a shuttle. The resort’s comfortable passenger boat then ferries guests up the channel to the lodge.
Lodge room with balcony and ocean view.Dolf Vermeulen/Klahoose Wilderness Resort
The eco lodge is tucked into the treelined shore of a quiet cove on Homfray Channel. All-inclusive packages include meals, tours and accommodation in one of four lodge rooms, or three private cedar cabins located a short walk from the main building.
Each recently renovated room and cabin is simply furnished in pine or cedar, with tasteful decor – touches of Indigenous artwork, woven blankets and pillows. Every room features fantastic views of the ocean, rainforest and mountains surrounding the resort, and I enjoyed restful nights’ sleep with the windows wide open to the sounds of the forest and evening rain showers.
Guest room amenities feature individual Nespresso machines, boxes of sweet and savoury snacks, and luscious small-batch body products created by Indigenous and woman-owned RavenSong.
In taking over the ownership and operation of the resort in 2020, Klahoose have incorporated immersive Indigenous cultural experiences that complement the many opportunities for wildlife encounters.
Kenny Hanuse shares a traditonal song with guests.Dolf Vermeulen/Klahoose Wilderness Resort
Every evening, First Nations cultural ambassadors and storytellers take over the lodge’s Great Room, leading daily activities such as wood carving, cedar weaving and smudging ceremonies. And I find this is where the delicate strands of cultural understanding and human connection are woven together: sitting by the wood stove and listening to stories and legends; braiding strips of fragrant red and yellow cedar; feeling the soft brush of fresh hemlock bough and waft of burning sage cleanse my spirit during a sacred smudging ceremony.
A stay at Klahoose Wilderness Resort is an invitation to accept experiences that may be unfamiliar, and they elevate my visit in almost spiritual ways, going beyond the emotional thrill I’d anticipated finding in my natural encounters.
After all, wilderness is in the resort’s name. There’s no question that guests are drawn here for the chance to view majestic humpback whales, orcas, grizzlies, black bears and myriad other creatures in their natural habitat on land and sea. And while seeing wildlife is never guaranteed, the resort and its friendly staff will get you out into the wilderness to find them, whenever and wherever they appear.
Resort stays include hour-long boat rides to Toba Inlet for day-long wildlife tours led by Indigenous guides of Klahoose Coastal Adventures. On the fall bear tours, guests are shuttled between a series of elevated wooden towers situated on the banks of the Klite River, watching in awed silence as grizzly bear mothers teach cubs to fish for spawning chum salmon while keeping an ever-watchful eye out for potential threats. It’s worth renting or borrowing a proper camera with a telephoto lens to capture the action.
After each day’s outdoor adventure, I couldn’t resist cocooning in the newly installed and fragrant cedar sauna – basking in its wood-fired warmth before launching myself off the dock to swim in the invigorating saltwater of the sound.
Humpback Whales are spotted during the marine boat tour.Dolf Vermeulen/Klahoose Wilderness Resort
Room for improvement
Operating an off-grid boutique resort in a remote location can be challenging. Klahoose Wilderness Resort produces its own power but there are occasional outages, and they happened daily during my stay. Backup generators kick in after 20 seconds to reboot the system. If you happen to be in the shower during an outage, my advice is to keep calm and shampoo on until power is restored.
Since you’re in the neighbourhood
Relax and enjoy your surroundings – after all, apart from the handful of guests, wildlife and occasional passing boats, there’s no one else for miles around. Grab a paddle and head out for a SUP or kayak exploration of the shoreline. Enjoy rainforest walks on the grounds or hop on the boat for a visit to Refuge Cove. This quirky, picturesque coastal village is a favourite stop of boaters and sailors, and home to a historic wooden General Store, library and restaurant.
Observing grizzly bears, whales and wildlife in their natural habitat at Klahoose Wilderness Resort is a thrilling experience.Dolf Vermeulen/Klahoose Wilderness resort
The takeaway
Observing grizzly bears, whales and wildlife in their natural habitat at Klahoose Wilderness Resort is a thrilling experience, but I was equally moved by the invitation to actively participate in its First Nations cultural activities. The smell of sage smoke, brush of hemlock boughs and rhythm of songs and drumbeats will stay with me as a wonderful, lasting memory of the extraordinary experiences to be found in Desolation Sound.
Klahoose Wilderness Resort is open from May to October, and prices vary based on season and activity. From May to August, a three day package starts at $2,895 a person. Meals, guided boat tours, cultural activities and boat transfers to/from Lund are included.
The writer was a guest of the resort. It did not review or approve the story before publication.