In Big Sur, the narrow pavement cuts through lush forests lined with roadside lodges before snaking along the edge of cliffs that tumble deep into the rocky sea. Heading north, it passes in front of windblown meadows, Carmel’s cliffside estates, miles of undulating dunes and the Santa Cruz wharf, stretching out into the dramatic surf. An hour away in Half Moon Bay, it turns off toward Pillar Point Harbor, packed with fishing boats overflowing with the morning’s catch, before the road climbs again, passing through Montara Mountain and hanging right toward the hills of Pacifica and San Francisco.
Since the Pacific Coast Highway was completed in 1937, the drive along the California coast has been considered one of the world’s great road trips, rivalling the hairpin turns of Italy’s Amalfi Coast and the highland vistas of northern Scotland. It stands out for how quickly the landscape – and the weather – can change around every bend, highlighting the diversity of the state’s climate and natural beauty. While researching the three-hour route between Big Sur and San Francisco, it can be tempting to plan a quick driving getaway along the Pacific. But you quickly learn that the relatively short journey can easily be stretched out to a week or two as you settle into the relaxed energy of each stop along the way.
Waking up in Big Sur at the Ventana resort, before the morning light hits the ocean and the towering trees that surround you, it’s the sweet scent of the forest that puts you immediately at ease. The campus of contemporary wood-clad buildings houses 54 guest rooms and suites with balconies where you can spend the day sprawled out on your hammock. The 160-acre property also includes Japanese-style hot baths, hiking paths through the redwoods and a daily calendar of classes and workshops – Floating Meditation or Intuitive Fermentation? – that pay homage to the area’s history as a spiritual and wellness destination.
Below the hotel, taking Highway 1 south drops you at Nepenthe, a longstanding pit stop that includes an eclectic boutique, café and restaurant in a rustic treehouse with a sprawling outdoor patio. Turning north and crossing over the landmark Bixby Bridge will steer you toward Monterey, passing the Carmel Valley and its detour-worthy tasting rooms. To get close to the vines without going too far off course, Folktale is a winery that grows grapes on its picturesque property for juicy bottles labelled Carbonic Sangiovese.
When you pull into Santa Cruz’s Dream Inn, a lushly-planted mid-century modern hotel among the Victorian villas on palm tree-lined West Cliff Drive, it feels like you’ve taken a wrong turn and ended up in Palm Springs. There’s not a desert outside your window, though, but wetsuit-clad locals running for the waves that have long made the city a centre for surf culture. Further up the coast, at Natural Bridges State Beach, the sea is full of bobbing boards until sunset when a rush of surfers catch their final wave back to shore.
At the Oceano Hotel and Spa in Half Moon Bay, your balcony offers a front row seat to the bustling harbour, where you can get out onto the water on a whale-watching cruise or buy a bag full of Dungeness crabs to boil up for dinner directly off a boat. You’re also walking distance to Jettywave Distillery, with its buzzy weekend patio, and Barbara’s Fishtrap, a Half Moon Bay destination for fish and chips. A dinner at the lively Peruvian restaurant La Costanera will likely earn the top spot on your list of the trip’s most memorable meals.
Toward the end of this journey is Devil’s Slide Trail. A decade ago, this two-kilometre stretch of Highway 1 was converted into a pedestrian and cycling path. Walking along the car-free pavement is a treat for the trip’s designated driver, who can finally gaze out at the ocean panorama without worrying about swerving into oncoming traffic. It’s nice to stretch your legs but the driver’s seat is calling. The next pullout is a few kilometres up the highway, waiting to show you another completely novel view of the California coast.
Arriving at the Ventana Big Sur, you’re immediately immersed in sea, sky and lush greenery.
Isabel Marant coat, price on request, shorts, $720, boots, $945 through isabelmarant.com. Bag, price on request at Bottega Veneta (bottegaveneta.com). Oakley sunglasses, $274 through oakley.com. Corey Moranis necklace, $155 through coreymoranis.com. 1964 Corvette Stingray provided by Monterey Touring Vehicles (montereytouringvehicles.com).
LEFT: Shirt, $7,200, shorts, $6,800, sandals, $1,150 at Hermès (hermes.com). Socks, price on request at Uniqlo (uniqlo.com). Ganni hat, $150 at Ssense (ssense.com). (Left) Tekla shirt, $275, trousers, $235, towel, $105 through teklafabrics.com. Michelle Ross earrings, $178 through mnross.com.
RIGHT: Tekla shirt, $275, trousers, $235, towel, $105 through teklafabrics.com. Michelle Ross earrings, $178 through mnross.com.
LEFT: Miu Miu shirt, $1,590, polo, $1,200, swimsuit bottoms, $1,070 through miumiu.com. Tekla towel, $105 through teklafabrics.com. Socks, price on request at Uniqlo (uniqlo.com).
RIGHT: Sweater, top, trousers, all price on request at Bottega Veneta (bottegaveneta.com).
NEW CASUAL. Sophie Buhai’s sculptural belt elevates a checked Oxford, worn here at the Folktale Winery & Vineyards in Carmel.
Vintage Polo Ralph Lauren shirt, $35 at People’s Champ Vintage (peopleschampvintage.com). Issey Miyake jacket, $1,645, trousers, $1,465 at Holt Renfrew (holtrenfrew.com). Sophie Buhai belt, $2,220 through sophiebuhai.com. Michelle Ross earrings, $178 through mnross.com.
LEFT: Top, jacket, both price on request at Chanel (chanel.com). (Right)
RIGHT: Dress, price on request at Chanel. Sophie Buhai necklace, $450 through sophiebuhai.com.
LEFT: Rejina Pyo suit jacket, £650, trousers, £495 through rejinapyo.com. Vintage Polo Ralph Lauren sweater, $40 at People’s Champ Vintage (peopleschampvintage.com). Keen shoes, $130 through keenfootwear.com.
RIGHT: Sweater, $925, shorts, $565 at Max Mara (maxmara.com). Isa Boulder hat, $255 at Ssense (ssense.com). Sophie Buhai rings, $550 to $895 through sophiebuhai.com.
DIVE IN. A gauzy Issey Miyake piece mimics the sleek silhouette of a surfer’s wetsuit.
Issey Miyake dress, $1,395 through isseymiyake.com.
LEFT: Dress, $24,000, sandals, $1,150 at Hermès (hermes.com). Vintage patchwork coat, $100 at People’s Champ Vintage (peopleschampvintage.com). Photographed with Riptide Charters (riptide.net).
RIGHT: Saks Potts shirt, $370 at Ssense (ssense.com). Michelle Ross pearl necklace, $265, tiger’s eye necklace, $315 through mnross.com.
LEFT: Nanushka shirt, $795 through nanushka.com. Comme Si shorts, $97, socks, $192/set of five through commesi.com. Tilley archival hat (ca.tilley.com). G.H. Bass loafers, US$175 through ghbass.com.
RIGHT: Saks Potts sweater, $585 at Ssense (ssense.com). Trousers, $195, bags, $265 to $341 at Lacoste (lacoste.com). Keen shoes, $140 through keenfootwear.ca.
ON LOCATION
Big Sur and Carmel-by-the-Sea
Alila Ventana
Originally opened as the Ventana Inn in 1975, this mountainside escape became part of Hyatt’s Alila collection of boutique luxury properties in 2017. At the resort, you’ll also find the Sur House, an all-day dining spot with a spectacular terrace overlooking the Pacific. Stays from US$1,500/night through ventanabigsur.com.
Bixby Bridge
Parking is very limited at the southbound lookout next to this local landmark – made world famous in the opening sequence of the HBO series Big Little Lies – but it’s worth a stop if there’s a safe place to do so. visitcalifornia.com.
Folktale Winery
This Carmel winery is unique for growing grapes on its estate, a Bordeaux-inspired property that also hosts special events and concerts outside of its tasting room. folktalewinery.com.
Monterey Touring Vehicles
From the 1964 Corvette Stingray featured in this story to a VW microbus and Porsche Speedsters, this local outfit can set you up with your dream car for a day of touring the coast. Rentals from US$379/four hours through montereytouringvehicles.com.
Nepenthe
Inside this restaurant, which sits atop Café Kevah and the Phoenix Shop, wooden tables and benches upholstered in retro tones of orange, green and blue surround a sculptural circular fireplace. nepenthe.com.
Santa Cruz
Barceloneta
Proper paella is the star of the meal at this spot in Santa Cruz’s pedestrian-friendly downtown. eatbarceloneta.com.
Dream Inn
Op-art wallpaper and mid-century modern lighting accent the Dream Inn’s rooms, which feel like they hover over the Pacific with vistas of the city’s boardwalk and colourful amusement park. Stays from US$239/night through dreaminnsantacruz.com.
Natural Bridges State Beach
Through a grove of eucalyptus trees, this more secluded stretch of sand offers views of a naturally occurring arched rock formation, sea life and surfers. parks.ca.gov.
Half Moon Bay
Barbara’s Fishtrap
If the weekend lineup is too long outside of this local institution, get your fish and chips to go and enjoy it at the outdoor tables overlooking Pillar Point Harbor. barbarasfishtrap.com.
Devil’s Slide Trail
This section of highway-turned pedestrian walkway is part of the ever-expanding California Coastal Trail, which will travel from Oregon down to Mexico. smcgov.org.
Jettywave Distillery
On a Friday evening, locals gather around the fire pits on this distillery’s patio, sampling cocktails, craft spirits and food from a campus of bar and food trucks. jettywave.com.
Oceano Hotel & Spa
This all-suite hotel is the centrepiece of a waterfront complex that also includes Caffé Mezza Luna, Hop Dogma Brewing Co. and a covered arcade where you’ll find the hotel spa. Stays from US$289/night through oceanohalfmoonbay.com.
La Costanera
Toast your trip with a Pisco Sour and a spread of ceviches and bocaditos by Michelin-starred chef Carlos Altamirano. lacostanerarestaurant.com.
Style Advisor travelled to California as a guest of Visit California. The tourism board did not review or approve this article prior to publication.
Makeup and hair by Julie Cusson for Chanel Beauty using the limited-edition Chanel Spring 2024 makeup collection: Les 4 Ombres in 88 Coral Treasure, Baume Essentiel in Mermaid Glow and Rouge Allure Laque in 92 Sea Shell (chanel.com). Model: Amber Witcomb at Want Management. Photo assistant: Aljosa Alijagic. Styling assistant: Shae Holt.
For more information on touring the California coast between Big Sur and San Francisco, visit visitcalifornia.com, as well as the local tourism boards including seemonterey.com, santacruz.org and thesanfranciscopeninsula.com.
Keep up to date with the weekly Sightseer newsletter. Sign up today.
