In 2022, author Nicola Ross hiked more than 900 kilometres along Ontario’s Bruce Trail, Canada’s oldest marked footpath which follows the Niagara Escarpment. She shares her adventure from Niagara to Tobermory in a new book, 40 Days & 40 Hikes (ECW Press). Ross includes detailed field notes, hand-drawn maps and breaks down the long trail into easy-to-follow day hikes for readers. She hopes her book inspires more Canadians to explore the Bruce Trail, though maybe not post each delightful discovery on social media.
What is it about the Bruce Trail that made you want to hike it, then write a book about it?
I didn’t look for a reason to hike the Bruce Trail; I just wanted to do it. It would be an adventure. Maybe not the Chilkoot Pass to the Klondike, but still an adventure.
Maybe the more interesting question is why I did it in my looping way. That was because, as much as I like hiking, I’m not keen on carrying a heavy pack, fiddling with car drops or coping with organized hikes. By walking it in loops that involved both the main Bruce Trail and its vast network of side trails I avoided what I wasn’t keen on while still accomplishing my goals. I was self-sufficient.
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A lot of outdoorsy people would rather head into the mountains or a coastal route near the ocean. Why are you championing Ontario’s “near urban” trails?
Well, the simple answer is that I live in Southern Ontario. Having hiked both Ontario’s landscape, scaled mountains in Canada’s west and explored Newfoundland’s east coast, it’s almost as if we are talking about different sports. Getting into the backcountry with a tent and grizzlies for company bears little resemblance to Southern Ontario’s trails that roll through the countryside, oftentimes passing right through small villages (where you might score a latte!).
Just as people who grow up by the ocean yearn for the smell and sounds of the sea, I grew up with the Niagara Escarpment’s cliffs as a backdrop to small farms with stone and brick houses and bank barns set amid layered hills of aromatic hay interspersed by maple and beech forests. That’s my ocean.
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Is it better to hike not too far from civilization?
It’s different. I’m not fond of hearing the roar of cars or the hum of industrial plants when I’m hiking. But there are a lot of near urban trails that feel surprisingly remote whether you are outside Calgary or Caledon, Ont. When you are hiking through a park that might be 400 hectares in size, you feel like you are in the wilderness even though you might only be a few kilometres away from a Walmart.
The Bruce Trail follows the Niagara Escarpment, which is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and protected (somewhat) by the Niagara Escarpment Plan, which is an environmentally based plan. The result is that we have some rugged and remote terrain within Southern Ontario.
What does it mean to be a responsible hiker?
I think of hiking as a privilege and I want to interfere as little as possible with the trees and plants, birds, mammals, reptiles and amphibians. Let nature be.
I write a hiking column for In the Hills magazine. It includes an illustrated map with a little sign entitled Hiking Etiquette: “Hike only on marked trails. Obey all signs. Carry out all litter, including dog poo. Keep dogs leashed. Don’t disturb people, animals, plants or trees.”
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That captures the basics. But I have a new rule, that is important in these days of social media. If you find something special on a trail, such as a rare plant, pictographs or a previously unknown waterfall, don’t tell all. It’s okay to mention it, but don’t tell people exactly where it is and do not post this information online. Let people find these gems themselves, otherwise people will flock to these trails not to hike, but to gawk. A hiker’s rule: Keep your secrets secret.
Another good idea is to support the organizations that built and maintain the trails you enjoy.
What’s important to know before you go?
For a day hike, especially if you are entering remote territory, you really need to be prepared to spend a night outdoors. I don’t think you need to carry a tent, but make sure you have food and water. I bring along one of those metallic blankets that come in a package the size of a deck of cards. You can get them at Canadian Tire. I have a small first aid kit, a flashlight, pen knife, bug spray and sunscreen. Generally, I take along a rain jacket too. I have to remember to occasionally replace the emergency energy bars that end up forgotten in the bottom of my pack. Try to carry more water than you think you will need.
Cellphones help, but cell reception is often sketchy outside urban areas. Batteries die. You may not be able to call for help.
Let someone know where you are going. There are apps now that track your position so people can find you if you get lost or hurt. The most common is the Spot tracking device.
What’s the biggest mistake you see new hikers make?
Bad footwear. Flip-flops are a giveaway! You can mess up on all your other clothing and still have a decent hike, but if your shoes are uncomfortable, if you have blisters, it’s no fun. So, make sure you have good runners or hiking boots or even a good pair of hiking sandals.
What trails are you exploring next?
I’m off to Newfoundland this summer. I’m hiking the East Coast Trail that hugs Canada’s most easterly coast. After that I’m backpacking the Long Traverse in Gros Morne National Park. In between, I plan to explore Newfoundland’s less well-known trails.
This interview has been edited and condensed.