One of six tented suites at andBeyond’s Punakha River Lodge in Bhutan.Images Courtesy of andBeyond
When I entered Bhutan’s airport I immediately saw a large sign that said “Believe” – it’s the country’s tagline. I found that to be the most important mindset to have as a tourist here: Not to question but to listen, witness, learn and embrace.
Being a tourist in Bhutan is a different type of travel experience. You won’t want to sit by the pool all day because, simply put, adventure is calling. And yet, the pool at Bhutan’s latest five-star sleepover – andBeyond’s Punakha River Lodge – is incredibly inviting.
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Set in the valley of its namesake, the luxury camp is the first andBeyond resort to open in Asia. The boutique property is in the scenic Punakha River valley and just a 20-minute drive from Punakha Dzong, the country’s most impressive temple fortress. The lodge accommodates only 20 guests within six tented suites and two villas (one overlooking the river and the other offering two interconnecting rooms and views of the sacred Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten high up the valley). The six tented suites are the entry-level accommodation in this all-inclusive – at US$890 a night – but you won’t feel like you’re roughing it. There wasn’t a single unfulfilled desire in my tent.
andBeyond’s Punakha River Lodge in Bhutan. One of six tented suites.Images Courtesy of andBeyond
The tents are reminiscent of luxury African safari-style accommodation but these are equipped with heaters in the winter and air conditioning in the summer. Inside, furnishings are carefully curated including pieces by local artisans such as the embroidered fabrics on the chairs, pillows and headboard that were created by women trained through an organization founded by Bhutan’s Queen Mother Sangay Choden Wangchuck to support survivors of gender-based violence. Each tented suite also has a private veranda (from where I watched a handful of the country’s 700 bird species fly by), and an ensuite bathroom with a soaking tub that looks more like an artifact from a museum. A cappuccino was placed each morning for me on a “butler’s pass,” a small shelf attached to a window that opens from the outside.
AndBeyond’s travel philosophy is to immerse you in the locale with several dashes of “the unexpected” along the way so while you may want to stay in your room, you won’t.
“Bhutan is about being out in nature, it’s 60 per cent forest,” said Rishi Sarma, general manager of Punakha River Lodge. “Rather than being stuck inside a building, what we thought is ‘get them out there, appreciating the water and greenery, appreciate the dzong, the temple,’ wherever you are visiting.”
At the end of an early morning hike, andBeyond surprised guests with breakfast on location at Khamsum Yuelley Namgyal chorten, in Punakha, Bhutan.Solana Cain/The Globe and Mail
Unique, on-location dining experiences are a hallmark of the brand and they’ve brought the approach to Bhutan. One morning we had breakfast at sunrise up at the Chorten. Another time, we were told we were driving a short distance for another view of Punakha Dzong’s incredible architecture and ended up pulling into a small beach where staff from the lodge awaited with snacks and a sundowner set up so we could enjoy the view. We sipped gin and tonics watching the sun set behind the dzong.
Executive chef Rudolf van der Westhuizen’s worldly influences are playfully scattered throughout his menus, but I found that I yearned for exposure to traditional Bhutanese meals.
Bhutanese kitchen at andBeyond’s Punakha River Lodge in Bhutan.Images Courtesy of andBeyond
Bhutan’s six agro-climatic regions produce rice, broccoli, coconuts, kiwis, avocados, hazelnuts and so much more, but the most prevalent (and locally loved) crop are six different types of chilies. Our guide told us that chilies are considered a vegetable here, not a spice. Unfortunately, some meals at Punakha River Lodge left me wishing the chilies were incorporated more, instead of just offered in a small bowl near the salt and pepper.
I did get an opportunity to dive deeply into local cuisine during the lodge’s nightly interactive cooking lessons. One evening we learned how to pleat dough for momos (steamed dumplings filled with meats or vegetables that are popular in Bhutan) but the following night we learned how to prepare the South American favourite, ceviche. Some focus still needs to be worked out but once that’s done, this outdoor kitchen space is bound to be a highlight for guests.
Never colonized, Bhutan is a Buddhist kingdom that has managed to preserve its ancient traditions. Requirements and policies for visitors have been carefully crafted to ensure what the tourism board refers to as a “high value, low volume” approach. Visitors must pay a US$100 a day fee to enter and hire a local guide during their visit.
Our guide was arranged through andBeyond as part of our stay. Kuenzang Gelay Yonten greeted us at the airport with freshly chilled spring water and as we toured dzongs and temples, he recited the story of each Buddha and deity represented.
He was friendly, fitting right in with our group, and thoughtful, always offering a locally procured snack after each stop (cassava chips dusted in mild red chili spice were my favourite) and he answered all our off-the-cuff questions with ease. (How many rhododendron species grow in Bhutan? 46!) So much of Bhutan’s history and nuances would’ve been lost without having Gelay around.
Punakha River Lodge is an exquisite place to stay, fans of andBeyond’s African lodges and overseas resorts will find it has incorporated that magic here, too.
My visit to this country was a reminder of why we travel, to experience and appreciate how others live. To open ourselves up to different ways of life, to believe in something new.
andBeyond’s Punakha River Lodge guest lodge area in Bhutan.Images Courtesy of andBeyond
If you go
Visitors must first secure visas to Bhutan before booking flights into the country on one of its two airlines, Drukair and Bhutan Airlines. For details, visit bhutan.travel/visit
Punakha River Lodge tented suites start at US$890 a night and that includes meals, guided tours, gratuities, taxes and transfer from Paro airport. Hotel amenities include a spa, heated swimming pool, yoga studio, archery and local artisans shop. andbeyond.com
The writer was a guest of the resort. It did not review or approve the story before publication.