It’s early morning as we leave the Los Angeles airport headed toward Santa Monica, Calif., and I find myself actively praying to the weather gods to please lift the “June Gloom” that has settled over the area, leaving it chillier than normal and greyer, too.
I’ve encountered this weather phenomenon in the coastal city on previous visits – and knew the risk by visiting in the spring – but we gambled, thinking, surely, we’d get to enjoy a few of the 280 days of sunshine that Santa Monica averages each year.
My husband and I pull up in front of our hotel on the beach, the newly renovated Sandbourne Santa Monica. Within a half-hour of checking in, we are at the pool, on teak chaises, our legs wrapped in fluffy white towels and ordering lunch. By 12:05 p.m., just as hoped, the sun burns through the clouds and blue sky appears.
This is the Santa Monica I was hoping to see: a beachside town, bathed in sunshine, with rows of palm trees, rolling surf and miles of sand.
Why you should visit
We had been warned before booking, that while the rooms were complete, the lobby was still a work in progress, so I wasn’t surprised to see the reception desk draped in a white sheet.
On closer inspection, I realized the desk was sculpted concrete, made to look like folds of cloth. Every time I walked through the lobby, I wanted to stroke that desk, which looked like it was wrapped in a soft blanket of stone.
The new look at Sandbourne (formerly Le Merigot Hotel) is the handiwork of Icelandic architect Gulla Jonsdottir who took her design cues from the outdoors: water, sand, air and sun. The two-storey lobby is open and airy, with a carefully curated melding of different fabrics and materials, soft velvets and plush leather on sofas, rattan chairs shaped like bird cages, terracotta pots with verdant greenery, ceramic light fixtures that look like wind chimes and art chosen to reflect the environs.
The aesthetic carries itself into our guest room, which is painted “haze” – a shade that sounds kind of trippy but is actually a soothing shade of coral. What I loved most about our spacious room was the 700-square-foot balcony with a view of the ocean, where we sat each morning, coffee in hand, to watch the steady flow of people start their day. We decided Santa Monicans spent far too much time working out.
Room for improvement
The hotel is still ironing out some kinks and housekeeping is one. I had to call down three times for a coffee maker (which will eventually be a standard amenity in each room but wasn’t when we visited). The process started all over again when I tried to secure a second bathrobe.
Since you’re in the neighbourhood
While Los Angeles is known for its sprawl (and reliance on cars), Santa Monica is the place people come to get out of their vehicles, to surf, skate, cycle or run. Santa Monica is essentially a little city (only 21.5 square kilometres), with a big beach and eight distinct neighbourhoods (including Montana, Pico, Main Street, Ocean Ave and the historic Santa Monica Pier/Third Street Promenade).
The beauty of the Sandbourne is that it’s located in the middle of them all. We booked a bike tour with Bikes & Hikes LA, and Eric Hines – a hilarious, superfit dude – took us to the Strand (the official name is the Marvin Braude Bike Trail), a 35-km paved path that runs mostly along the shoreline of Santa Monica Bay.
This is a prime place to people watch and you will see it all: the impossibly fit, the muscle-bound, artists, street performers, musicians and lots of gawking tourists, like us.
Another highlight was breakfast at the beach. The dreaded June Gloom was back the morning we had booked, but as we rounded the corner at Lifeguard Tower 20, the inclement weather was instantly forgotten when we saw what Santa Monica Picnic Co had set up.
Spread out before us, under an umbrella, was a table laden with a charcuterie board, a lemon poppy seed loaf, yogurt parfait, chocolate and plain croissants, and a cooler filled with cold drinks and coffee. Seated on cushions, we wrapped ourselves in blankets and watched a woman teach her young daughter how to surf. At US$300, it’s pricey but sets the scene for holiday indulgence nicely.
There are countless healthy food options in Santa Monica, and we sampled many, but our favourite dine-out experience was decadently rich and downright delicious. It’s a new little spot called Burgette, owned by Canadian chef Sean MacDonald.
His Parisian-inspired eatery has about a dozen tables with a menu offering burgers and small-plate meals to share. Try La Vivianne, named after MacDonald’s grandmother, a smashed Wagyu patty served with warm bone marrow butter, spiced tomato jam and French raclette. Order the mushroom salad – another winner – the leftover mushroom jus is perfect for dipping your frites.
The takeaway
I’ll be honest, I was nervous staying at a hotel that was at the tail end of a massive renovation. But witnessing a hotel coming together in its final stages has its perks.
Every morning, I looked for the latest decor additions, a new rubber plant by the terrace doors, stools at the lobby bar and a fabulous installation by local artist Guerin Swing, made from reclaimed fire hoses from the Santa Monica Fire Department. By the time we checked out, I felt invested in the place and a little protective. Next time I visit, I can’t wait to see the finished product.
- Rooms at the Sandbourne Santa Monica, Autograph Collection start at US$400. Feel free to bring pets. The hotel has a dog park, provides beds and organic treats.
- You don’t need a car in Santa Monica but if you want to do day trips, I highly recommend renting through Turo – the Airbnb for cars. Unlike traditional car-rental companies, the owner met us at the departure level, for pickup and drop off. No long lineups. No extra charge.
The writer was a guest of the hotel and Santa Monica Travel & Tourism. It did not review or approve the story before publication.