A view from Kalesma, a hotel perched on one of the few southwestern peninsulas in Mykonos.Vangelis Paterakis/Kalesma Mykonos
The first thing I notice when approaching Kalesma, a hotel perched on one of the few southwestern peninsulas in Mykonos, is its hillside locale is surrounded by palm, lemon, olive and bananas trees. The plants do a number on my senses as their leaves and buds release a salve-like perfume and frame the glittering blues of the Aegean Sea.
In the lobby, a heavy wood-chiseled sofa faces me. As I give it a curious eye, the doorman informs me that it was designed by fashion czar Rick Owens. The sofa’s unusual form – a cross between a canoe and a giant Advil capsule – sets the tone.
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Each step I take toward the concierge desk feels like I’m entering an installation at Art Basel or the Venice Biennale. Furnishings and floor coverings present themselves as intensely curated pieces that require double takes. While furniture and art are displayed in ways that seamlessly blend industrial and natural tones, whimsical accents break up the minimalism – I see a horse saddle strewn on reclaimed timber, and intricately patterned room dividers.
A sofa designed by Rick Owens.Giorgos Kordakis/Kalesma Mykonos
As I pass the property’s gift shop – whose chic aesthetic rivals high-end boutiques on New York’s 5th avenue – I notice Greek-made couture displayed on racks as if it was part of an exhibition.
Throughout the indoor-outdoor layout of the entire property, ceramics by Serbian artist Aleksandar Vac reinforce a geometrically acute grey, white and tan Cycladic décor scheme.
The hotel’s infinity pool, located at the hillside centre of the property, is Kalesma’s jewel-in-crown, giving swimmers a vantage point of the dazzling Ornos Bay. This serene vista contrasts with every single party-centric cliché I’ve come to associate with Mykonos.
Why you should visit
Aloni Sunset Lounge and Restaurant.Vangelis Paterakis/Kalesma Mykonos
Located 30 minutes away from over-the-top tourist centres like Paradise Beach and Kalo Livadi, Kalesma is both a hidden gem and a hot spot for those who love to travel in tranquillity.
The price of peace, however, is by no means economical. Given Greece’s tourist upsurge (more than 20 million visitors in 2023 alone) this is not a surprise. For those taking Kalesma’s premium-priced route in order to recharge, a booking ensures a stunning, spacious bamboo and marble-clad suite or villa, each blessed with a private dipping pool and a set of hemp loungers. Kendall Jenner, Paris Hilton and Selling Sunset’s real estate impresario Mary Vitinaros have all stayed here under-the-radar but the energy is more sanctuary than celebrity (even though room rates that can soar above $1,300 a night require celebrity bank accounts).
The property’s award-winning restaurant, Pere Ubu (named after the main character in Ubu roi, a play by French writer Alfred Jarry) has become one of the most coveted in Mykonos. Top lunch choices consist of Mykonian sausage dishes, fava spreads (think Greek hummus made with split pea) with shrimp and scallop and a sublime seafood salad tossed with branzino fillet, shrimp, lobster, infused with a spirulina vinaigrette. Best bets for dinner are a pea and artichoke dish cooked in clay pots and fresh line-caught fish, served with fennel and Mykonian cheese (a distant cousin to feta – its flavour profile is less salty and spicier).
Room for improvement
The hotel's energy is more sanctuary than celebrity.Katerina Avgerinou/Kalesma Mykonos
The winds coming off the Aegean Sea can be brisk. This means the outdoor umbrellas located beside your private pool commonly fly into windows or take dives. As they are incredibly heavy when wet, pulling these out of the water requires assistance. Aside from finding a heavier choice of patio furniture, the property could benefit from better use of the many common areas. They beg for some semblance of cultural programming such as a lineup of Grecian music (which can still be kept at low tones), author readings, a sundowner menu and, perhaps a sample of cuisine or culture coming from the Feast of St. Apostles (June 29), the Mykonos Arts Festival (held in July) and the Ano Mera festival – which honours the assumption of the Virgin Mary (Aug. 15).
Since you’re in the neighbourhood
Furniture and art are displayed in ways that seamlessly blend industrial and natural tones.Katerina Avgerinou/Kalesma Mykonos
While Kalesma may entice you to stay in your room and private pool for the duration of your stay (each suite and villa faces the Agean), the island’s beaches simply cannot be ignored. Nearby Ornos Beach is the best bet for families. Due to the tiny two-lane highway, nobody should risk walking it (it’s a three-minute drive from the hotel). Visitors will find kid-friendly restaurants like Pasaji (serving inexpensive yet delicious Mediterranean platters), shallow waters and places to snack and drink Greek coffee (ordering baklava at Mykonos Bakery is a must).
A five-minute drive from the hotel is Korfos Beach for wind and kite surfing or wave-riding. On the other side of the island, discover the stunning Agios Sostis Beach with its powdery sand and deeper blue waters, great for adult swimmers. LGBTQ travellers and those who prefer a clothing-optional spot will want to drive 30 minutes to the yacht-less Elia Beach, where queer-friendly areas are demarcated with gigantic rainbow flags.
For a night out in Mykonos Town – about a 10-minute drive without traffic – book a ride with the hotel driver as taxis are not always readily available. Once you get there, brace yourself for the crowds and expect to rub elbows and bump into fellow travellers trying to find their way through the labyrinth of vendors, shops and bars and restaurants.
The take away
Part-gallery, part sanctuary, part retreat, Kalesma’s knack for keeping it low-key guarantees a vacation that recharges your body. Before leaving the hotel, guests are encouraged to visit the on-site chapel – dedicated to Saint Dimitrios (patron of agriculture). Looking like a standalone exhibition in the Museum of Modern Art, this sacred space is filled with ambient sounds by composer Stefanos Giakoumakis and sublime drawings by artist Gerasimos Chatzis in an effort to bring home Kalesma’s main message of complete restoration.
Kalesma reopens for the summer in April. For more, visit kalesmamykonos.com
The writer was a guest of the resort. It did not review or approve the story before publication.