Giraffe Manor in Nairobi.Scott Ramsay/Giraffe Manor
I couldn’t help but be intrigued by Giraffe Manor in Nairobi. Shots of guests at the hotel hand-feeding giraffes had been popping up in my social-media feed for years, and while I was curious, I was also wary: Was this one of those overly popular destinations that doesn’t live up to the hype? I wondered if it would deliver a truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience, or if it would lack the authenticity and off-the-beaten path feel I crave when I travel.
But I was celebrating a milestone birthday and my partner and I were headed to East Africa on a safari trip. So we decided to add Giraffe Manor to our itinerary.
In 2009 the hotel joined the Safari Collection, a parent company that manages a portfolio of luxury camps and lodges throughout Kenya. Giraffe Manor is also a breeding centre for endangered Rothschild’s giraffes, surpassing its reputation for endless giraffe selfies.
Since its inception, more than 50 giraffes have been born and returned to the wild. Through initiatives like the Giraffe Sponsorship program it has raised more than US$100,000 for conservation efforts. Collaborating with the African Fund for Endangered Wildlife and the Giraffe Conservation Foundation, the manor actively safeguards the world’s tallest mammal. (Fun fact: The correct term for a group of giraffes is a “tower.”)
When we arrive, we’re greeted by the palatial Giraffe Manor, a stately gem set on 12 acres that evokes the opulence of a 1930s Scottish hunting lodge, on which it was modelled. I immediately notice the sweeping vines adorning the manor – they intertwine tightly like a thick blanket, their tendrils embodying a wild beauty that breathes life into the stone facade. No giraffes are in sight yet, but I’m already enthralled.
We’re met with cold hand towels and sweet lemonade after our sweltering drive. The hotel is only a 40-minute drive from Nairobi’s international airport but we’ve just spent more than six hours in the car, arriving from Maasai Mara National Reserve, where we’d been on a safari for the past few days.
After breakfast the windows are opened and giraffes reach in through the open windows looking for food.Luis Cabrera/Supplied
A guest services representative briefs us on our stay. We’re told that our moments with the 10 Rothschild’s giraffes will unfold at three specific times: afternoon tea, a feeding from our room’s balcony at dawn the next morning and then during breakfast. We also get a run down on giraffe etiquette: We should refrain from loud noises, wait for staff before interacting with the giraffes, approach them from the front when feeding (not the side to avoid head butts) and only offer the provided pellets to eat.
Famished after our long trek, we’re looking forward to lunch in the outside courtyard. I notice the intricate details of the place settings: charming giraffe-themed charger plates and napkin holders, and even the water carafe is shaped like the hoofed, graceful giant. The decor isn’t overpowering – in fact, the motifs enhance the experience. All meals are included during our stay. The cuisine is a mix of local and international dishes and my favourite is a carrot and cumin soup paired with pan fried red snapper.
Our first encounter with the giraffes is over afternoon tea. While guests drink from delicate cups and indulge in delectable pastries on an elevated terrace, the majestic mammals join the gathering. The giraffes can lean over the terrace where we are sitting but keep their feet on the ground, giving us up close access but still some separation.
One by one, almost like clockwork, they gracefully emerge from the bush. Nothing prepares me for the sheer size and elegance of these creatures. Their height ranges between 12 to 17 feet tall, with Ed, the dominant male, standing at a whopping 18 feet tall. The resort staff skillfully orchestrate the interactions and ensure everyone gets a memorable photo.
One of the guides urges us to try putting a pellet between our own lips. Curious, I place a pellet of compressed corn gluten meal on the edge of my mouth. Immediately I am “kissed” by Ed: his long, dexterous tongue plucking the pellet with gentle precision. The smooch is a little too sticky for my liking, but my thrilled inner child pushes away any discomfort as I wipe his saliva from my lips. We spend the next two hours eagerly feeding and interacting with the animals.
At 5:30 the next morning, it’s still dark outside but I step out onto our balcony, curious to see if any giraffes are nearby. I spot three. The sight of giraffes peeking through the railing is an unrivaled experience for me. I’ll never forget it. I reach for the basket of pellets and my partner and I spend the next 45 minutes feeding them from the safety of our balcony, grinning the entire time.
But that morning was not the pinnacle of our stay. Most guests who come to Giraffe Manor can’t wait to take photographs in the breakfast room. First, the human guests dine on a spread of expertly prepared eggs Benedict, pancakes and pastries. Then, we open the windows. At once, long giraffe necks gracefully reach in through the open windows looking for food. The manor’s sunlit dining room becomes an interactive stage where guests and giraffes share their first meal of the day.
Themed treats at Giraffe Manor.Luis Cabrera/Supplied
My initial reservations about Giraffe Manor were unwarranted. Beyond the ample photo ops, the resort is a blend of opulence and intimate connection with these gentle giants, which directly contributes to their well-being and conservation. This is more than just a hotel – it’s a haven offering an unparalleled and ethereal experience with wildlife.
If you go
Giraffe Manor is less than an hour’s drive from Nairobi’s Jomo Kenyatta International Airport. I secured a reservation more than a year in advance, and even then, availability was scarce as demand exceeds the resort’s 12 rooms. Rates start at US$1,168 a person for double occupancy, and include meals, alcoholic beverages, laundry and airport transfers. thesafaricollection.com