Rasha Mourtada learns to ski at Mont Sutton in Sutton, Quebec.The Globe and Mail
At 48, not exactly in tip-top shape and practically sick with fear on the bunny hill, I saw no way forward.
But I also knew there was no way back.
Despite a lifetime of being scared to try skiing, once my sons started lessons I’d decided it was time for me to learn, too. I always urge my kids to push through difficulty – learning to tie their shoes, read, do any number of sports. “You can do hard things!” I remind them. If I quit now, I thought, what message would that send?
Also, going down that hill was an important part of our ski vacation in Quebec’s Eastern Townships: I didn’t want to be stuck watching from the pro shop as my husband Wil, and kids – Oliver, 10, and Sam, 7 – had all the fun.
Our kids, born and raised in Ontario, had been eager to ski on a “real” mountain. The Eastern Townships fit our requirements: four mountains with varied terrain within a reasonable driving distance (about a seven-hour drive from our home in Toronto). The promise of poutine didn’t hurt either.
We decided to spend two days at Mont Sutton, then head to Bromont. I figured that skiing at two hills meant I’d get to work with two teachers, potentially doubling my learning.
With a vertical drop of about 450 metres, Mont Sutton is a small mountain compared with giants such as Whistler.Bernard Brault/Supplied
When we arrived at Mont Sutton, I was struck by its folksy charm. With a vertical drop of about 450 metres, it’s a small mountain compared with giants such as Whistler, which stand about three times taller. But for us, it was plenty big, offering 60 trails across 260 kilometres of skiable terrain thanks in part to the many trees throughout the resort (45 per cent is gladed runs).
At my first lesson, my instructor, Jean-Yves Dufort, started by asking how I was feeling. “I’m scared,” I told him.
No doubt he’d heard that response before. At 70, Dufort has been teaching skiing for more than 50 years. “Relax!” he urged me.
He focused on the mechanics – teaching me how to turn and stop – barking, “Look at me!” to keep my gaze straight ahead rather than down at my feet. “Skiing is like dancing,” he said, adding that his three tenets of the sport are “attention, balance and control.” And with every trip up the magic carpet, he’d ask me thoughtfully, “How are you feeling?”
Soon, as if under his spell, I was starting to get it. I was turning, I was stopping. I was gaining confidence. “Tomorrow should we try that?” he asked, pointing at the next level hill – a green that seemed to soar to the sky. I nodded nervously.
That evening, my family and I retreated to our nearby chalet at Hotel Horizon. With the wood stove burning as snow came down in the woods around us, we got cozy and talked about our day.
“It’s so much fun skiing with your family,” Sam said, and I felt a tug of satisfaction.
In the morning, Dufort and I pushed our skis through half a foot of freshly fallen snow as we warmed up. “How are you feeling?” he asked me again. I told him I was, to my surprise, actually having fun.
On our chairlift ride up the green hill, he reminded me that confidence is everything. “You’re good!” he said. “Just don’t let fear take over, or you will forget everything.”
Rasha Mourtada with her family on the gondola at Bromont.The Globe and Mail
And yet, at the top, that dreaded fear took hold once again. My trip down was nothing like dancing. I fell twice, crashing to the ground because I couldn’t control my speed. At the bottom, Dufort asked, “What happened?”
I’d let fear take over, I admitted. He led me back to the bunny hill and watched as I descended perfectly. “See, you’re good! You can do it! But you have to think you can do it.”
By then, however, it was time to tackle an even bigger hill – on a sled. The Yooner is basically a low seat with a handle attached to a single ski. Sutton says it’s the only resort in Canada to offer it. After we rode up on a chairlift I never would have gotten on as a beginner skier, we followed our guide to a blue trail, where I hesitated. The bottom of the hill was nowhere in sight.
But, it turns out, the Yooner is a wildly good time. Once I got going I flew down the hill, intuitively steering around skiers. I was going fast, and it was glorious. At the bottom, we went right back up to do it again.
That afternoon I wandered around the main street of the old village of Sutton, home to boutiques and eateries, including gourmet food shop La Rumeur Affamée, where I picked up a maple pie and some Quebec cheese on the strongly worded suggestion of a local.
The next morning, we drove half an hour north to Ski Bromont, which has a slicker, more urban feel. The resort is known for its top-notch grooming and illuminated night skiing; it has 41 trails across 450 acres of skiable terrain, with a vertical drop of around 400 metres.
When I met my instructor, Catherine Meloche, she exclaimed, “We’re the same age!” (But she’s been downhill skiing since she was 11.)
Her approach was different than Dufort’s. Where his tone was more forceful, hers was more measured. But they echoed each other too, with Meloche joking that skiing is like “bad dancing” as she bopped from side to side to illustrate how I should shift my weight.
She encouraged me to bend my knees more deeply and loosen up my upper body to turn more smoothly. At the end of our hour, she said I was ready to try the green run the next day. “But there is one steep part,” she warned.
Bromont’s Balnea Spa has seven outdoor hot tubs, one of which is an infinity pool overlooking Lake Gale and the surrounding mountains.Supplied
That afternoon, I visited Bromont’s Balnea Spa, for some solo après ski relaxation in its seven outdoor hot tubs, one of which is an infinity pool overlooking Lake Gale and the surrounding mountains. If strapping on ski boots in the morning means I can spend an afternoon here, sign me up.
At dinner, I shared my nervousness about the green run. While we noshed on fragrant Middle Eastern food at Babar, Sam reminded me that his Ontario instructor had taken him to a harder hill than he was used to one day. “I was scared until I did it. And now I’m not scared anymore.” Oliver chimed in: “Half of skiing is mental confidence,” and I wondered whether he’d been talking to Dufort.
The next morning, I asked Meloche: “How do you feel about me skiing the green?” I was looking for reassurance but she sensed my hesitation.
“Listen to your gut,” she replied.
In the end, I stayed on the bunny hill. I’d lost some learning momentum by switching resorts but, on the other hand, each instructor’s individual approach had taught me so much.
Eventually, Wil and the kids joined me. As I zoomed down, I heard Sam cheer, “You’ve got this, Mom!”
That’s when it became clear: I had wanted to learn to ski to keep up with my kids – but I realize now that I’ll never be able to. They have far surpassed me on the slopes. Oliver was racing down double blacks and Sam was hitting blues by the end of our trip. And, really, isn’t that the point? As a parent, my greatest wish is to see my kids eclipse me, in every way.
With the boys ahead of me now, at least on the ski hill, I still want to be a model for them. I want them to see that I, too, can do the hard thing. But I’m not going to lie: Après-ski will probably always be my favourite part.
Hotel Horizon’s indoor pool and outdoor hot tub are godsends after a day on the slopes.Supplied
If you go
The Eastern Townships has four ski resorts: Mont Sutton and Bromont, as well as Owl’s Head and Mont-Orford. Skiers can purchase a single pass to all four hills, starting at $156 for two days for ages 18 to 64. For more details, visit easterntownships.org/lestgo
Mont Sutton
Sutton’s four mountain chalets, including three with a fireplace and one with a bar, offer plenty of après ski relaxation. montsutton.com
Sleep: Hotel Horizon’s indoor pool and outdoor hot tub are godsends after a day on the slopes – as is the French-inspired Bistro Horizon. Book rooms in the main building or a chalet, starting at $217 a night. hotelhorizon-sutton.com
Eat: At Sutton Brouërie, the kids loved the heart-shaped pretzel and deep-fried pickles. Mom and dad loved the more than 20 varieties of beer. aubergesuttonbrouerie.com
Ski Bromont
Located about an hour from Montreal, this resort is a popular destination for city dwellers and tourists alike. bromontmontagne.com
Sleep: Beatnik Hôtel offers amazing views of the nearby mountains. Opt for a large studio for some breathing space, with a kitchenette, dining and sitting area, alcove with bunk beds and a separate room with queen bed, starting at $180 a night. beatnikhotel.com
Eat: Chardo’s sophisticated menu leans on seafood (mackerel, monkfish, scallops) and offers some inventive combinations. Try the chocolate panna cotta with mushrooms. chardo.ca
Après: At Balnea Spa, plunge into hot tubs with views of Lake Gale and the mountains (and definitely book a massage). The thermal experience starts at $50. balnea.ca
The writer was a guest of Bonjour Quebec. It did not review or approve the story before publication.