One of Janet Zuccarini's favourite Japanese restaurants is n/naka.Jake Rosenberg/Handout
Between travels, filming Top Chef Canada and working on Stella, the newest establishment from this restauranteur, Janet Zuccarini is having a busy summer. Getting her many Toronto restaurants on steady footing after a rocky couple of years continues to be a priority – from the 26-year-old Trattoria Nervosa in Yorkville to newbie Azhar, which opened last year on Ossington Avenue – but she’s also expanding her culinary footprint in Los Angeles, where she spends half the year. Stella, in West Hollywood, will open later this year offering a coastal Italian dishes. She spoke to the Globe and Mail about the appeal of L.A., her favourite farmers’ market and the realities of the hospitality industry today.
Why did you decide to expand in Los Angeles and plant roots there?
It was a bit of a snowbird situation where the winters are getting tough for me. At a certain point I realized the company was ready to expand, and I thought, “Why don’t I choose a place where I can also live there in the winter?” I was checking out Miami and Los Angeles, but when I landed in L.A. it just felt like home. I decided I’m going to live in L.A. for half a year and open a restaurant. When I first came, eight years ago, I saw a bit of a gap, a bit of an opportunity. With the farmers’ markets, the produce and products you get in L.A., and what they can grow in California, you’re off to a better start.
How would you compare the food scenes in Los Angeles and Toronto?
I’m gonna go back to the opportunity you have to cook with produce here. You know, there’s 10 different varieties of strawberries. Just the ability to to work with this incredible produce is the biggest difference. We all want to eat locally, sustainably, it’s a lot easier in California. California has got the weather and the sunshine and you’re getting chefs really taking advantage of that. I’m seeing a lot of chefs coming from New York City, Chicago, the East Coast and they want a piece of the action now in L.A.
Speaking of farmers’ markets, are there any that you recommend for people to check out?
Yeah, my absolute favourite, and it’s often a chef’s favourite, is the Santa Monica Farmers’ Market on Wednesdays. It is bar none – any chef will say it is absolutely the best. There are so many that happen, but that one is really off the charts.
Where are some of your favourite places to eat in the city right now?
One of my favourite Japanese restaurants, n/naka, has a two-Michelin-star chef. It’s very difficult to get a reservation, but she just opened up a new restaurant called n/soto. It’s casual and is fantastic. The team behind Bavel and Bestia just opened up a causal Middle Eastern restaurant called Saffy’s in East Hollywood. I love Middle Eastern food, and this is great.
Are there any underrated neighbourhoods or areas that you think deserve more attention from tourists?
Restaurateurs are always looking for the next neighbourhood that’s going to turn. I sometimes look at Culver City to see what’s happening. Going further east, Silver Lake is already exploding with some really interesting restaurants. So I think it’s getting out from the centre. Of course, I’m under construction in West Hollywood with Stella. It’s maybe a little bit more prohibitive for the rent, but if you can create a restaurant where you can cover off the rent I think West Hollywood still holds lots of opportunities.
What can people expect from Stella?
Where we are is an iconic location. It was a restaurant called Madeo, and it was in that location for many years, but now it’s where we’re bringing Stella to life. We’re going to have this outdoor terrace and it’s going to be a lot larger, we’re going to have 200 seats. And I’m excited to work with Rob Gentile, as executive chef and partner. COVID for me, some good things have happened and some bad things have happened. A silver lining is that some chefs have become available. I reached out to Rob and said, “Why don’t you start fresh and come here to L.A. and we’ll start opening restaurants.” He didn’t know L.A. but now that he’s spent some time here he’s excited about the potential.
When it comes to hospitality, obviously there are still staffing challenges resulting from the pandemic. Do you see things correcting or are there still lots of challenges that you as a restaurateur are facing?
Yeah, it’s absolutely so challenging, and it’s globally. I was just in Italy talking to a lot of people there, and Italy, Toronto, Los Angeles – it’s the exact same problems. People have left the industry, so what we’re dealing with is absolute shortage of all positions. We have people that are coming new, who have never served a table before. Being dedicated to training people from scratch is our only way. All of my restaurants in Toronto are open lunch and dinner, seven days a week. But I have certain restaurants that can’t be open for lunch right now just with the staffing shortages. It’s frustrating, but I’m not alone in this. We have to accept it. It is what it is and we have to work through it. Hopefully, some people start coming back but if not, just keep looking for people and moving along and doing the best that you can.