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Khaki pants, worn by everyone from Jack Kerouac to Katharine Hepburn, have been around for almost 200 years. The term khaki means “dust-coloured” in Hindi and Urdu, and is variously used today to reference a colour, a type of cloth and a style of trousers.
“Khakis have their roots in military uniforms, specifically the British military during the 19th-century colonial wars in India,” says Anika Kozlowski, an assistant professor of fashion design, ethics and sustainability at Toronto Metropolitan University. Now, they “have become synonymous as both a casual style, relaxed-fit pant in the colour ‘khaki’… and as a thicker twill weave fabric, usually made from cotton.”
Chinos are another cotton twill pant style that are durable and easy to wear, too. While many brands and retailers use the descriptions interchangeably, Kozlowski notes that with chinos, “usually a lighter-weight cotton twill fabric is used, which is typical of a more dress-style pant. Khakis will have more design details such as pleats and cuffs while chinos are flat-fronted and will have a slimmer leg.”
Both khakis and chinos are typically made with a twill fabric that’s 100-per-cent cotton, or a cotton blend with elastane. Pairs with stretch will be more comfortable to wear, says Chantal Tremblay, group product manager at RW&CO. But for “a look that’s a bit more rigid” or with “something that’s a little bit more wider on the leg” or looser fitting, you may want to opt for a pair without elastane.
Generally, these are versatile pants that can be dressed up or down. But, for the office, Tremblay recommends looking for slim-cut styles that have a more saturated, even colour. They will generally look more formal compared with styles that are wide-leg, predistressed or garment-dyed.
She also notes that while fit is a top consideration, there can also be a range in quality, even between pairs of khakis or chinos that may, on the surface, look identical. A nicer pair that costs more may, for example, feature better sewing workmanship and be made with a higher-quality fabric that is more wrinkle-resistant and offers better stretch recovery.
Six buys to try
From the men’s department
(Left) Available in three different inseam lengths and a few neutral colours, these classic, straight-fit pants are designed with comfort in mind. The cotton-elastane fabric offers four-way stretch and some wrinkle-resistance, so they’ll still look sharp after a full day at the office. Dockers straight-fit Workday khakis, $70 through Moores.
(Centre) Another good option for the office, these stretch cotton twill chinos feature a slim leg and inside elastic waistband for a better fit even without a belt. They are available in five different colours ranging from a sandy beige to a dark khaki brown. RW&CO. slim-fit super stretch chino pant, $90 through RW&CO.
(Right) These 100-per-cent cotton twill pleated trousers feature a slouchier fit and patch pockets on the back. They’re a more casual, stylish option that would elevate a basic dress shirt or crewneck sweater for everyday wear. Kotn Nilus trouser, $138 through Kotn.
From the women’s department
(Left) A more laid-back style that works well as a denim alternative, these baggy-fit chinos are made with a 100-per-cent cotton twill fabric with no stretch. They’re available in three different inseam lengths, and four different colours. Levi’s XL chino pants, $118 through levi.com.
(Centre) These pleated, cotton-elastane khakis can be worn with heels and a blazer for a dressier look, or with sneakers and a T-shirt for everyday wear. Available in two colours, they feature a high-rise waist and wide-leg fit. Veronica Beard Mia wide-leg pleated pant, $328 through veronicabeard.com.
(Right) These ankle-length, fitted khakis are offered in seven different colours as well as tall and petite fits. And thanks to the stretch cotton fabric, they’ll be comfortable to wear all day long. Gap mid-rise Downtown khakis, $90 through gapcanada.ca.