Researcher Sophia Yue Li demonstrates how winter gear is tested at the Kite WinterLab at UHN in Toronto on Nov. 24.Jennifer Roberts/The Globe and Mail
The room I’m in is an icy-cold minus 10 degrees, and, no, I’m not standing in a walk-in freezer.
I’m at the KITE Research Institute’s Controlled Climate Performance Lab in Toronto, part of the University Health Network, where scientists test state-of-the-art winter clothing and footwear with a focus on safety and efficacy.
I’ve brought three of my own winter coats to help me learn more about their testing process. As I try each one on, a scientific analysis takes place, complete with temperature readings thanks to wire sensors and frequent notations of my thermal sensation and comfort level.
Between coats, I step out of the freezing-cold room for 20 minutes to return to my normal temperature.
It turns out, there are substantive differences between my coats in terms of warmth, especially when I compared the waist-length puffer with an almost floor-length one. Even though the former kept my torso toasty, after 10 minutes in the cold room my legs and feet were freezing, a problem I didn’t have with my less expensive, but longer parka.
Although it is possible to calculate fill power and down weight (more on that later) and pop that info on a hang tag, how warm a coat feels partly depends on the wearer’s own subjective preferences. In other words, one person might rate feeling “slightly cool” as “comfortable,” whereas another might find that “slightly uncomfortable” or “uncomfortable,” explains Dr. Sophia Yue Li, KITE’s partnerships & strategic project manager, research.
Li recently tested a few different parkas for a preliminary study and her best advice is to try on coats with a brand or retailer that has a flexible return policy. “What you can do is bring the clothes home, and then maybe you can step out with all the labels and use the natural environment to do the test,” says Li.
That could mean trying it on either outside or, if you’re looking at a Canada Goose jacket, in one of the cold rooms available in select boutiques, while wearing all your usual base layers and proper footwear. Just be sure to stay in the cold for at least 10 to 20 minutes. “Because how you feel in the first five minutes could be different if you have to wear that coat for longer,” says Li.
She adds that it can be helpful to look up customer reviews online. “And don’t solely rely on the brand name,” says Li. “Because sometimes the brand name doesn’t mean the coat will be warm or meet all your needs.”
Researcher Sophia Yue Li demonstrates how she prepares the lab for testing winter gear at the UHN Kite Lab in Toronto on Nov. 24.Jennifer Roberts/The Globe and Mail
Buying a winter coat can be a big investment – these days, it’s not uncommon to see parkas priced well above $1,000. But it’s also one that can keep you warm for a decade or longer; some brands offer a lifetime warranty for their outerwear. Canadian brands such as Mackage, Kanuk and Quartz Co. come to mind.
Andrew Coimbra, who has worked as an outerwear designer for more than a decade, considers a number of factors when buying a coat. “The use is really important: Is it an everyday jacket, an event jacket or a two or three times a week jacket?” says Coimbra. “Then the other thing is the length of the garment: Is it long, short, mid-length, maxi?”
Another key consideration is how warm you want the coat to be. With a down parka, you might see a down fill power number, which measures the loft or fluffiness of the down, indicated. Most coats have a down fill of 500 to 1000. “Then, there is the gram measurement which has to do with how much the total collective down weighs, and that plus the fill power is what tells us how warm it will be,” says Coimbra. An easier way to choose the right coat might be to look at the temperature rating, if one is available. Brands will often “specify the coldest temperature you can get to, and I think that’s really cool because it’s calculatable feedback for the consumer,” says Coimbra. In other words, they’ve done the math so you don’t have to.
Of course, you don’t need to buy a heavy-duty parka that’s temperature-rated to minus 30 degrees if your winter plans mostly involve short walks between your car and office. Although, a versatile coat that can be worn for a variety of activities is best.
“Anything around a minus 15 degree temperature rating is solid, if you consider layered dressing,” says Coimbra. “Usually these jackets are at least hip- or thigh-length, although I would say thigh- to knee-length is most ideal. And if it’s knee-length, it should have a two-way zip for easy mobility.” For extra versatility, he also suggests sticking to a matte nylon finish that’s not too textured or shiny, so you can match it with anything, from dress pants to jeans.
Of course, these ratings are a general guideline. “There are so many variables, and it’s not just weather variables,” says Coimbra. He cites differences in fabric too. “If you’re using a thin nylon versus a heavier woven twill, all those things make a huge difference.”
If warmth is key for you, Coimbra suggests looking for details such as an external placket covering the zipper and a zipper guard, both of which will help protect you from the wind, plus fleece pocketing, and rib-knit storm cuffs at the sleeve.
And if longevity and cost-per-wear is important, consider a neutral colour such as navy, black, grey or beige. “It’s supertempting to always go with a wild colour or something that has personality,” says Coimbra. “But you just have to really be realistic with yourself. … Will you get the wear that you want out of that?”
Hot Hits
From tundra-ready parkas to versatile puffers for everyday wear, here are six coats that pack in style and function. If you’re making a big investment, read the fine print and check into return policies and guarantees.
North Face HMLYN men’s down parka.Supplied
This contemporary, hip-length take on the North Face’s classic Himalayan down jacket is made with responsibly sourced 550-fill goose down and a wind-resistant fabric. There is a stormflap for the front zip, an adjustable hood and a drawcord at the hem to help keep wind out.
The North Face HMLYN men’s down parka, $500 through thenorthface.com.
Super Puff Personalized men’s goose down puffer jacket.Supplied
This limited-edition puffer made with 700+ fill power goose down and a water-repellent, wind-resistant fabric can be worn in temperatures as low as minus 30 degrees. Plus, the inner lining can be personalized with a message of your choice. Available in a long length, and women’s sizes.
The Super Puff Personalized men’s goose down puffer jacket, $285 through aritzia.com.
Quartz Co. Jackson men’s hooded down puffer jacket.Supplied
Designed and made in Canada, this 650-fill power duck down long puffer coat is recommended for temperatures as low as minus 20 degrees. The fabric is waterproof, wind-proof and breathable, and design details include elasticated sleeve cuffs and storm cuffs, and a windproof flap for the centre front zip.
Quartz Co. Jackson men’s hooded down puffer jacket, $1,200 through quartz-co.com.
Canada Goose women’s Expedition Parka PBI Heritage.Supplied
Designed to help you withstand minus 20-degree temperatures, this classic mid-thigh parka is made in Canada and comes with a lifetime warranty. Available in sizes 2XS to XL, as well as men’s and youth sizes, it comes with a removable fur ruff and features 625-fill power duck down. Plus, a portion of sales will be donated to Polar Bears International.
Canada Goose Expedition Parka PBI Heritage women’s, $2,025 through canadagoose.com.
Rudsak Cali women’s recycled stormshell maxi down puffer.Supplied
This maxi-length coat, available in four colours and made in part with recycled materials, is as stylish as they come. Designed for temperatures as low as minus 30 degrees, it boasts 800+ fill power and an eye-catching back panel made with a semi-gloss fabric. There’s a removable storm hood, storm cuffs and a Velcro-closure belt that helps give shape to the puffer.
Rudsak Cali women’s recycled stormshell maxi down puffer, $1,195 through rudsak.com.
Everlane Re:Down puffer.Supplied
If you’re living somewhere warmer, where the temperature rarely dips below minus 10 degrees, this short, machine-washable puffer made with recycled down feathers and recycled nylon and polyester could do the trick. There’s a two-way zipper at the centre front, and internal drawstrings at the hem to keep the wind out.
Everlane Re:Down puffer, $319 through everlane.com.