Illustration by Photo illustration by The Globe and Mail
No other skin-care product is as challenging to shop for as a sunscreen. The expectation for an effortless experience (i.e. no white cast, stickiness or unpleasant smell) is high, and though the variety of offerings has expanded in recent years, that hasn’t necessarily made the search easier. With limited opportunity to try before you buy, finding a formula that is pleasant to use, or won’t irritate your skin, remains a case of trial and error.
“One of the most common reasons my patients report not using sunscreen is that it makes them look pasty or that it doesn’t feel nice,” says Dr. Danny Guo, a dermatologist and medical director of Rejuvenation Dermatology Clinic in Calgary. “This sounds vain and trivial, but it is an extremely important criteria when deciding on which sunscreen to buy. If you want it to do its job, it has to get on your skin.”
Beyond preventing skin cancer, daily SPF use delivers big payoffs for any complexion. “I tell my patients that if you want to wrinkle, if you want thinner skin, or if you want spotted, discoloured skin, then don’t wear sunscreen,” says Dr. Renée A. Beach, owner of DermAtelier on Avenue and assistant professor, faculty of medicine at the University of Toronto. “It should be part of your everyday skin-care regimen. And we need to understand that it really is for everybody, not just people with fair skin or who burn easily.”
There’s no fool-proof method to finding the right one for you, but these pointers can help inform your sunscreen search.
Buying sunscreen: What to avoid
As the clean-beauty aisle has grown, sunscreens and the UV filters they rely on to protect skin have become more heavily scrutinized. Case in point: homosalate, a chemical UV filter which has generated controversy as a hormone disruptor. “I do not actively argue against certain sunscreen ingredients, such as homosalate, as much of the evidence is weak and the harm of scaring patients from sunscreen use can outweigh the potential harm that those ingredients can bring,” says Guo. In this case, both dermatologists agree that more research is needed. “The data is mostly in animals at high, high levels. I can’t say that it necessarily translates, or has real-life transferability, to our day-to-day use of the ingredient,” says Beach.
Oxybenzone, on the other hand, is a UV filter worth watching out for, especially for those with reactive skin. “It has been associated as a contact allergen,” says Beach. “If you have a history of sensitivity, eczema or documented allergic contact dermatitis, then that would be a sunscreen agent that I would say you can skip.”
Fragrance is another ingredient that some would do best to avoid. “It’s a common allergen but may not be a problem for most people,” says Guo. “If you get a rash from using sunscreen, that’s the first thing to try to cut out.” Sometimes tricky to pinpoint on any skin-care label, ingredients such as citronellal and limonene are often used as fragrance additives. “The best thing is to find a product that says fragrance-free,” says Beach.
Another no-no in sun care is retinol, a derivative of Vitamin A that’s touted for its anti-aging benefits. “A sunscreen that contains any type of retinoid is, in general, not recommended,” says Guo. “Retinoids are for nighttime use as they may not be stable in sunlight.” Be on the lookout for the ingredient which can be listed in various forms, including retinal or retinyl.
Buying sunscreen: What to look for
“Personally, I think mineral sunscreens are preferable to chemical sunscreens. Therefore, almost every sunscreen I recommend includes zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, or both,” says Guo. Those mineral actives help protect by creating a shield on the skin’s surface that reflect the sun’s rays. Chemical sunscreens, on the other hand, contain active ingredients that work by absorbing UV rays which are then converted into heat and released by the body.
Until recently, chemical sunscreens outpaced mineral options with more user-friendly textures and invisible finishes, but the tide is shifting. Those sticky and chalky textures with a ghostly finish are now more elegant (“mineral milk” is a popular descriptive). Still, it always comes down to personal preference. If you find a chemical sunscreen that you like and is compatible with your skin, then there’s no need to switch. “No matter how great the formulation is for sun protection, it’s useless if you never use it because it doesn’t feel or look nice,” says Guo.
When it comes to choosing a sunscreen’s sun-protection factor, a.k.a. SPF number, the Canadian Dermatology Association recommends a SPF of 30 or higher. The product should also offer broad-spectrum protection, which means it shields against both UVA and UVB rays. UVA has the ability to penetrate the epidermis, breaking down collagen and elastin fibres and contributing to aging of the skin, while UVB damages the surface and leads to burns and skin cancer.
It’s also important to consider your skin type or condition. If you have sensitive, very dry or eczema-prone skin, both dermatologists recommend mineral sunscreen because they tend to be less irritating. Those who experience melasma or any type of pigmentation issues, such as red or dark spots that arise after inflammation or a blemish, should choose a sun protectant with iron oxide which provides a tint. Studies have shown that using products with iron oxide can prevent skin-colour changes. “If your biggest concern is pigmentation, I’d rather you have a SPF 20 that has great iron-oxide coverage, than a SPF 30 or 50 that doesn’t have any iron oxide it in,” says Beach.
Beyond a great formula, applying enough sunscreen, using it daily and reapplying every two hours are essential for optimum sun protection. “We have to be more educated in applying our sunscreen correctly, including the ears and neck, places that people commonly forget about,” says Beach. “The other main thing is consistency every day. If you’re using it once a week, you’re not going to have as much of the skin protective benefits.”
The recommendation is to apply one teaspoon for face and neck. When it comes to your body, apply at least one teaspoon for each arm and leg. “Liquid sunscreen is always the best option for face and body, and stick sunscreen can be a good option for lips,” says Guo. “Spray and powder sunscreen should be avoided in almost every scenario as they are not as consistently applied to the skin and can be inhaled.”
As for cost, the right sunscreen for you shouldn’t be a splurge purchase. “Over the summer months, people should go through three or four bottles of sunscreen, just for their face and neck alone,” says Beach. Find a formula within your budget so you can afford to make sun care an everyday habit.
New sunscreens to try
Vacation Shake Shake SPF 50 Mineral Milk, $39, vacation.inc
Vacation Shake Shake SPF 50 Mineral Milk, $39, vacation.incSupplied
Ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and squalane make this watery mineral liquid, that has a barely-there feel and invisible finish, ideal for dry skin.
Kiehl’s Beyond Screen UV Serum SPF 50+, $56, kiehls.ca
Kiehl’s Beyond Screen UV Serum SPF 50+, $56, kiehls.caSupplied
Try this weightless chemical formula which absorbs quickly and contains peptides to help diminish the look of fine lines, an uneven skin tone and dullness.
Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow Niacinamide Dew Balm Sunscreen Stick SPF 45, $41, sephora.com
Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow Niacinamide Dew Balm Sunscreen Stick SPF 45, $41, sephora.comSupplied
The one that’s hands-free: Easy for on-the-go use, this hydrating balm stick comes with hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and squalane.
Neutrogena Purescreen Mineral UV Tint Face Lotion SPF 30, $21, neutrogena.ca
Neutrogena Purescreen Mineral UV Tint Face Lotion SPF 30, $21, neutrogena.caSupplied
Available in three flexible tints, this fragrance-free sunscreen offers mineral protection with the benefits of iron oxide.
KOA Body Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30, $58, livingkoa.com
KOA Body Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30, $58, livingkoa.comSupplied
A match for sensitive skin, a zinc oxide-based formula with shea-butter protects, soothes and is water- and sweat-resistant for up to 80 minutes.
Ultra Violette Extreme Hydrating Body + Hand SPF 50+, $40.50, sephora.com
Ultra Violette Extreme Hydrating Body + Hand SPF 50+, $40.50, sephora.comSupplied
New to Canada from an Australian brand, this alcohol-free lotion protects from UV and leaves behind a delicate coconut scent and subtle shimmer.