'When it comes to picking athletic apparel, especially for female athletes, the emphasis should always be on functionality and comfort,' says Filsan Abdiaman, an ultrarunner and the founder of Project Love Run, a running club for women in Vancouver and Edmonton.Brian McCurdy/Supplied
Prioritizing fashion over function is a risky proposition any time, but especially when it comes to workout attire.
Nike recently drew criticism from athletes for seemingly doing just that.
When the brand revealed its showpiece male and female outfits for track-and-field Olympians – featuring an ultrahigh-cut swimsuit-style kit for the women – there was immediate backlash from female athletes.
“Women’s kits should be in service to performance, mentally and physically,” wrote American runner and coach Lauren Fleshman on Instagram. “If this outfit was truly beneficial to physical performance, men would wear it.” (In a news release, the brand stated that the line was “the most athlete-informed, data-driven and visually unified the company has ever produced” and responded to the backlash by noting that the line includes nearly 50 styles, including some with shorts. Still, many athletes found it telling that Nike chose to highlight one of the more revealing options.)
With the global activewear market projected to reach US$771.8-billion by 2032 (up from US$425.5-billion in 2022) we have more choices than ever when it comes to finding workout clothing. This growth can have positive implications such as increasing the affordability of athletic apparel, making participation in sports more accessible for Canadians. But it may also mean fast-fashion brands rush items into stores to meet ever-shifting aesthetic trends without proper research and testing, leading to poor quality and product waste.
Choosing the right activewear for your body and sport can contribute to your overall enjoyment and increase the likelihood that you’ll stick with it.
Here, four high-level athletes share what matters most when it comes to choosing the best activewear.
Two-time Olympic beach volleyball athlete Brandie Wilkerson jumps to block against Brazil at Shiokaze Park during the Tokyo Olympics.Melissa Tait/The Globe and Mail
Material matters
Be sure to select the right fabric for comfort, sweat-wicking properties and sustainability. “Some key traits I look for are support and breathability of the fabric,” says Brandie Wilkerson, a two-time Olympic beach volleyball athlete. A quick way to know you’re in a functional fabric is noticing “what feels immediately comfortable when you’re standing there trying it on, because when you get active the fabric will be tensed and pulled in different directions so it has to work right away.”
CrossFit Games athlete Carolyne Prevost similarly highlighted the importance of breathability in both her leggings and sports bras for high-intensity sports that leave you sweaty. That generally means avoiding pieces made with 100 per cent cotton, as it absorbs moisture and dries slowly, making your clothes damp and heavy.
Some of the most functional athletic fabrics are also the most sustainable, including bamboo (moisture-wicking, sustainable, soft), and wool (breathable, moisture-wicking, great for outdoor and cold-weather activities). While most activewear materials, such as polyester, are made from plastic, some brands are now using recycled plastics as textiles, offering the same level of functionality with less environmental impact.
For professional cyclist and Olympic bronze medalist Catharine Pendrel, it’s crucial to consider the best material for the season as well. “Summer is easy to dress for,” she said. “But winter shoes and a versatile jacket are game changers for extending your season.” For wetter seasons, look for items with a Gore-Tex coating, which increases water- and wind-proof quality.
Finding your best fit
For everyday exercisers, choosing pieces that fit well means you’ll be more likely to enjoy your workout in the moment and stick with it. “When it comes to picking athletic apparel, especially for female athletes, the emphasis should always be on functionality and comfort,” says Filsan Abdiaman, an ultrarunner and the founder of Project Love Run, a running club for women in Vancouver and Edmonton. “It’s easy to get caught up in how something looks, but ultimately, the gear needs to support your body and keep you comfortable during your chosen activity.”
Finding the right fit might mean heading to a brick-and-mortar shop to try on items, or seeking out brands with flexible return policies.
CrossFit Games athlete Carolyne Prevost tests apparel in-store with exercise-specific movements.@Roguefitness/Supplied
Prevost likes to do a few exercise-specific movements, such as squats, when testing apparel in-store. With pants and shorts, “I make sure the material is stretchy but not see-through,” she says. “I also may do a few movements to see whether the material is comfortable and if there is chaffing that may occur. For tops, I try to feel the material to make sure it’s nice and light, stretchy and breathable. I don’t like too thick of a material for activities as it can be hot for working out.”
It’s also worth keeping in mind that vanity sizing and size inconsistency exists in activewear, too. “Last year I tried on a pair of shorts at a store and had to go up two sizes – not because of any physical changes to my body, but because the brand decided to make their sizes a smaller fit,” says Abdiaman. “As someone who is in a small/thin straight-sized body, that was not a good look for the brand. … What about all the folks in larger bodies that no longer have access to clothes in your brand?”
Sport-specific function
Just because a piece looks great doesn’t mean it serves the needs of your chosen sport. A built-in-bra tank top might feel like enough support for a low-impact activity like yoga, but offer too little support for running. A pair of thin leggings might feel great on a brisk walk, but become too see-through at the bottom of a squat.
Strength athlete Prevost looks for leggings with pockets to stash a hunk of chalk as she shifts quickly from movement to movement, and tops with higher necklines “because when the barbell is at shoulder level, it can scrape around the collarbone area.”
For cycling, Pendrel says saddle health is “key to a good cycling experience. Investing in a couple high-quality shorts with a good chamois and testing out saddles, or asking your girlfriends their recommendations, is well worth your time.”
The quality of the chamois (the pad sewn into cycling shorts) can mean the difference between a great ride and a really uncomfortable one. For short rides, a thin chamois should provide enough comfort, while you’ll want to look for a thicker one for long rides or multiday trips.
Think about how your body will be moving and find apparel that serves the needs of that activity.
Professional cyclist and Olympic bronze medalist Catharine Pendrel says it’s crucial to consider the best material for the season.canadiancyclist/Supplied
Don’t neglect the items you can’t see
“If there’s one piece of athletic apparel I can’t live without,” says Abdiaman, “it’s definitely good-quality underwear. It might not be the first thing that comes to mind when you think of essential gear, but trust me, it makes a world of difference, especially in endurance sports. The right pair stays in place, provides support where you need it and prevents any unwanted rubbing or irritation.”
Abdiaman notes that what feels and fits best will be different for every body, but she prefers “breathable, cotton underwear.”
Sports bras and socks can similarly contribute to overall comfort (if you’ve ever worn socks that were either made of cotton or too loose-fitting for a run, you know the particular misery of mid-run blisters).
“For sports bras, I want to make sure I am well covered on the side and the front, and that as I run and move around, everything is staying still,” says Prevost. She avoids low-cut sports bras and looks for thick straps that won’t shift during high-intensity workouts.
Abdiaman suggests getting fitted when possible and keeping in mind that the support you need may differ from sport-to-sport.
Alyssa Ages is a journalist and the author of Secrets of Giants: A Journey to Uncover the True Meaning of Strength. She is also a strongman competitor and endurance athlete, as well as a former personal trainer and group fitness instructor.