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Your skin and its microbiome are always busy at work. Often described as an ecosystem found on the surface of the skin, the microbiome consists of nearly a thousand micro-organisms that can affect the way skin functions, looks and feels.
For that reason, don’t just wash your skin before you go to bed, says Annie Graham, a Calgary-based cosmetic scientist and founder of Atomic Pom Labs, which specializes in developing formulations and products for indie beauty brands. Clean it in the morning, too.
“Our skin produces oil at night,” explains Graham. “A cleanse removes oil and debris and helps keep the bad microbes from taking over the good, which can contribute to redness, inflammation and acne.”
As the first step in a skin-care routine, or a professional facial, cleansing not only rebalances a complexion, it washes away oil and dirt, which can create a barrier for anything you put on your face. “It prepares your skin to effectively absorb the skin-care products that follow,” says Christine Deflandre, a skin-care expert at Rennaï, a beauty retailer and medical aesthetic clinic in Montreal. Whether you’re using a brightening serum, pore-clearing toner or hydrating face cream, you’ll achieve better results by applying it to a freshly cleansed face.
When choosing one, read the front of the label to help you decide. Graham looks for keywords in the product name, rather than starting with the International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient (INCI) list, a widely recognized naming system for cosmetic ingredients often on the back of a product. “Take a peek at how the brand is describing the cleanser,” says Graham. “We all need to know, and have a right to know what is in our products, and that’s why we have a visible INCI list, but I don’t think that that’s the best way to interpret which one is best for us.”
Instead, consider what you need or what concerns you most. Are you looking for a face wash that’s hydrating, gentle or acne-fighting? The former esthetician also takes cues from the origin of a brand. Graham finds North American-made formulas typically favour exfoliating actives that can be harsh, while those from French pharmacy brands tend to be gentle and often unscented.
Cleansers also come in many textures, including foams, creams, milks, oils and balms, and personal preference plays a role in finding one that’s a solid match. Graham is partial to gel formulas that are rich in humectants, such as propylene glycol, glycerin and urea. “They’re all molecules that attract and hold water,” she explains, “and can be more hydrating than an oil ingredient.”
Those with extra dry or sensitive skin that isn’t acne-prone are likely to favour creamy textures that often contain glycerin or oils, which, according to Graham, are comforting ingredients. When your skin is oily or prone to breakouts, consider a face wash that contains salicylic acid. “It’s an oil-soluble beta hydroxy acid. If you have a pore clogged that is going to help exfoliate it.”
For makeup wearers, Deflandre recommends double cleansing to thoroughly remove any trace of cosmetics in the evening. “Start with a more emollient, oil-based product to help remove makeup, then follow up with a lighter texture for a complete cleanse,” she says.
The final step: a thorough rinse with water to wash away any cleansing agents (known as surfactants) left on the skin, which Graham says can be irritating.
Six buys to try
From a creamy lather to an airy foam to a rich balm, there are many ways to come clean and care for your skin’s health.
Applied to a dry face, then activated with water, an oil-based balm with pineapple enzymes removes makeup while gently exfoliating dead skin cells. Best for: normal to dry dull skin. Trinny London Be Your Best enzyme balm cleanser, $58, trinnylondon.com
While generating a creamy lather, antioxidants (from licorice root and green tea) and a complex of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids help to soothe and replenish the skin barrier. Best for: normal or combination skin. Byoma creamy jelly cleanser, $18, Shoppers Drug Mart
Ideal as a first step in double cleansing, this fragrance-free blend of olive fruit, rice bran and avocado oils dissolves makeup and SPF residue. Best for: normal, dry, combination and sensitive skin. Victoria Beckham Beauty daily oil cleanser, $95, rennai.com
Formulated with salicylic and azelaic acids, this daily face wash helps to minimize pores, reduce the appearance of blemishes and absorbs excess sebum. Best for: oily to acne-prone skin. Skinfix azelaic acid BHA/AHA cleanser, $47.50, sephora.com
Infused with glycerin and niacinamide (also known as vitamin B3), this liquid cleanser is designed to gently dissolve impurities and refresh skin without leaving it feeling stripped. Best for: normal to combination skin. Naturium niacinamide cleansing gelée 3%, $30, Shoppers Drug Mart
One pump dispenses enough of an airy soap-free foam to cleanse and remove makeup from the face and neck. Best for normal or combination skin that’s sensitive. Eau Thermale Avène cleansing foam, $27.50, well.ca