Black always comes back and red’s rebelliousness may be perennially revered, but from khaki to Kelly, fashion’s freshest hue is forever green. This season, a verdant vibe pervaded the collections. Marni’s mod mini in a cheerful check feels undeniably crisp while designer Maximilian Davis’s emerald leathers at Ferragamo exude a sense of serenity.
Representing a spectrum of sentiments from greed and evil to prosperity and peacefulness, green’s favouritism in the contemporary fashion world can be traced back to the 1800s. The House of Worth – helmed by the man dubbed the father of couture, Charles Frederick Worth – produced a wealth of gorgeous grassy looks in a variety of shades during the latter half of the century.
A sumptuous sea green silk afternoon dress by the maison is part of the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute’s permanent collection, as is an evening ensemble amped up with jolts of chartreuse paneling.
Fast-forward to 1997, when Nicole Kidman ruled the Oscars red carpet in a chartreuse Chinoiserie gown by John Galliano for Christian Dior. The sour shade may be one of green’s trickier incarnations, yet Kidman’s pared-back poise (and red hair) balanced out its acidic undertones. To prove that her success with wearing green was more than mere luck, Kidman wore another light chartreuse frock in 2022 – this time by Prada and accented with peach plumes on it shoulders – to the premiere of her film, The Northman.
For spring 2024, notes of pear, pistachio and pickle popped up in pieces at Loewe, Stella McCartney, Louis Vuitton men’s wear by Pharrell Williams and Bottega Veneta. The latter offers an often-coveted shoulder bag that’s most envy-inducing in its electric jade iteration, highlighting the rich depths of green’s gamut and ever-growing appeal.
– Odessa Paloma Parker
LIGHT TOUCH
Using the dress shirt as its jumping off point, the Prada collection translated its collar and silhouette into a collection of raincoats in pastel hues.
HIDE AND SEEK
In Pharrell Williams’s first collection as men’s creative director, Louis Vuitton’s traditional Damier check is reinvented as a pixelated camo print.
GARDEN VARIETY
One of the Marni collection’s many mini moments is this tank dress in a vibrant plaid.
WRAP DRESS
A Loewe style’s unique geometry is created by gathering and separating swags of green tartan.
On Jialin, left: Homme Plissé Issey Miyake shirt, US$765, vest, US$530, skirt, US$595, trousers, US$465, shoes, US$595 through isseymiyake.com. On Yang Shi, right: Stella McCartney dress, $4,000 through stellamccartney.com. White Mountaineering shoes, price on request through whitemountaineering.com. ORA-C rings, $160 each through oracjewelry.com.
NEW HUE
Whether more tailored like Homme Plissé Issey Miyake’s pleated pieces or flowing like a Stella McCartney gown, anything silky and celery feels seasonlly crisp.
UNCOMMON THREAD
What looks like a tweed jacket is, in fact, a tightly woven leather piece that captures the height of Bottega Veneta’s craftsmanship.
GROWTH OPPORTUNITY
Grasses explode out of one of the season’s many oversized takes on the cargo jacket.
TONE ON TONE
Colour drenching – a term coined to describe room decor in a single, saturated hue – is making its way into our wardrobes thanks to Ferragamo designer Maximilian Davis.
STRONG BOUQUET
An array of vintage brooches adds a whimsical accent to Sportmax’s ice-green look.
Styling by Nadia Pizzimenti. Floral styling, sets and props by Isabel Mendoza. Makeup, hair and grooming by Sheri Stroh for Plutino Group using Laura Mercier, Nars and M.A.C Cosmetics. Models: Yang Shi at System Agency, Jialin at Want Management. Photo assistant: Nathan Cook. Styling assistant: Alexandria Petropoulakis. Makeup, hair and grooming assistant: Olive Grey. Photographed at Floret in Toronto (floretfloret.com).
