Between the continuing rise of athleisure fashion, relaxed office dress codes and normalization of remote work, fewer of us are visiting the dry cleaners. In Canada, the industry is struggling as spending on dry cleaning has remained fairly flat despite rising incomes and population growth, according to a 2023 report by research firm IBISWorld.
But if you’re regularly wearing suiting to the office and formal wear to events and want to maintain the appearance and extend the life of special items in your wardrobe, it still makes sense to visit your local dry cleaners.
Read the label first
If you’re not sure whether a piece of clothing needs to be dry cleaned, check the care label. Just be aware that in Canada, manufacturers have to disclose the fibre content of a garment, but care labelling is not required by law.
Most manufacturers do want to tell consumers how to care for their products, though, and in many cases they will suggest a method of care they think is reasonable and run the tests for that particular procedure, says Dr. Jane Batcheller, a clothing and textile science expert at the University of Alberta.
“They wouldn’t necessarily try all possible cleaning methods and run a whole lot of tests because it’s just too expensive,” explains Batcheller. “So in some cases, yes, you might see dry clean only, but there are probably other ways that the garment could still be cleaned. But the manufacturers feel that the safest way is going to be through dry cleaning.” And you could be taking a risk if you decided not to follow the recommended care procedures.
Other reasons why a garment may be labelled “dry clean only” are if there are dye colours that might run in the wash, fabric finishes that may come off in the washing machine, trim that could be damaged by water or an increased risk of shrinkage with wet cleaning.
Be mindful of special textiles and trims
The Fitzroy, a Toronto-based dress rental service, launders or dry cleans every item in between clients. Because sending something out for dry cleaning lengthens the turnaround time between rentals, the company tries to minimize the number of pieces they carry that need it, says co-founder Julie Kalinowski. In-house team members will also machine wash on a gentle cycle or hand wash some garments that are labelled “dry clean only”; these are hung up to dry and steamed or ironed to remove wrinkles. “In general, polyester and polyester blends have been fine,” says Kalinowski.
However, silk garments, some suits, faux fur coats and intricate ball gowns made of materials such as tulle or organza are always sent out for dry cleaning. The Fitzroy doesn’t carry any leather pieces, merino wool or cashmere styles or heavily beaded items because they would also have to be dry cleaned.
In addition, Batcheller recommends dry cleaning any multicomponent garments such as a winter coat, where the lining might shrink more than the outer fabric with wet cleaning, and clothing that features heat-set pleats – that is, those not stitched in place – which might come out in washing.
You’ll also want to dry clean clothing made with trims such as leather or sequins, and items that would benefit from a professional pressing (or “finish” in industry parlance), such as 100 per cent cotton shirts, says Rob McConnell, president and CEO of Toronto’s Gibson’s Cleaners, especially if you like a crisp and pressed look that’s harder to achieve at home on your own.
When to dry clean
You don’t have to dry clean most garments after every wear, but any stains should be addressed promptly. “As a stain sits, it’s more difficult to remove over time,” says McConnell.
A dry cleaner can eliminate spot stains that you might not be able to remove at home, especially if you bring in the garment quickly and can identify the source of the blemish.
Finally, experts stress the importance of cleaning garments in between seasons, to remove any food stains and body oils, before they are put in storage “because of the potential for insect damage,” says McConnell.