Booze has been flowing again from the brown-brick edifices of the restored Distillery District on ye olde Toronto waterfront. Spirit of York, an impressive-looking craft operation with glass walls that permit visitors to view the grain-to-glass process, is located on premises originally occupied by Gooderham & Worts, once reputed to be the largest distillery in the world. Its twin, three-storey rectifying towers, in gleaming copper, were so large they had to be located outside the brown-brick building. And they, too, were encased in glass for public inspection.
As with most microdistilleries, Spirit of York (the name is a reference to old Toronto) has started out with white spirits, specifically vodka and gin. Unlike most, however, it takes pride in distilling its vodka just once (as opposed to as many as seven times for some extremist companies intent on stripping out every last nuance of flavour for the sake of smoothness).
Yes, this is vodka with flavour, derived entirely from Ontario-grown rye. Robust and substantial, it's relatively thick in texture, with a bread-like essence joined by notes of smooth vanilla, licorice and subtle cracked-pepper spice. Bottled at 40-per-cent alcohol, it's worthy of a dry martini or simple vodka and soda.