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wine review

They're maturing everything in bourbon barrels these days, it seems. First it was Scotch whisky, which has long relied on castaway casks from the American whisky trade, the far more affordable alternative to once-dominant sherry wood from Spain. Then came craft-brewed beers, such as porters, stouts, Belgian ales and IPAs, and, more recently, chardonnays from California and shirazes from Australia, to name two wine styles. Now it's Cognac's turn.

Yes, as in the fine French brandy. Martell has done a fine job seizing on the trend. Blue Swift is the company's first product to be finished for a short period in heavily charred casks that once contained Kentucky bourbon (following an initial, longer period in the classic material, French oak). It's a more compelling marriage than one might cynically anticipate.

Considerably richer than a run-of-the-mill VSOP, it displays a sweet, velvety core of raisin, vanilla, chocolate, candied orange and melted toffee accented by woodsy spice. Excellent, rich viscosity and flavour depth. A ritzy Cognac in homey denim overalls. Available in Ontario.

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