Skip to main content
wine review

At 4.8-per-cent alcohol, it's not exactly a lightweight (or "lite" weight, if you're a Miller fan), so the welter designation is apt. At least it's apt coming from a Toronto-based craft brewery eager to distinguish this fine beverage from the generally higher-strength India pale ales out there. It goes up against many tough opponents in a segment clumsily known as the "session-beer" market (as in beers you can guzzle, one after the other presumably, in a long session without getting KO'd by alcohol).

This supplies a smart twist: It's a wheat beer fused to the IPA style, brewed with Belgian wit yeast, so it's exceptionally fruity and bright while also sporting solid and satisfying hoppy bitterness. Well done, Mill Street. When a beer's this lean yet so tasty, even I could go for, say, four or five rounds without hitting the mat – if you give me a few hours and a plate of nachos. Available in Ontario.

Interact with The Globe