Note to trend spotters: I just got back from a recent trip to the West Coast, where burnt flavours were abundant on menus. I enjoyed some very fine meals and was able to bring home some recipes from my favourite establishments.
Those include Vancouver's Kissa Tanto, which specializes in Japanese- and Italian-inspired cooking and has won numerous awards. Rightfully so, as chef Joel Watanabe cooks with both heart and intelligence, producing tantalizing dishes in the process.
I wheedled out of him his outstanding recipe for carne cruda, which is essentially a beef tartare. The gnocchi frito is easy to do and stays firm for a few days, but skip it if you're so inclined. Finding pickled Sichuan peppercorns proved to be difficult, so I used Chinese ones tossed in a little rice vinegar and then drained.
Some of Vancouver's tastiest food also comes courtesy of Osteria Savio Volpe, which serves larger Italian sharing plates, family style. Chef Mark Perrier has a sure hand in the kitchen and his bagna cauda with vegetables comes with dip that I could drink. I'm featuring his simple but delicious kale salad, which will soon be your new favourite starter.
Last but not least was Stonehouse, a wonderful B & B on Salt Spring Island, where proprietor Michael Coughlin seduces with warm hospitality and standout baking. Michael has celiac disease and so only does gluten-free baking, which I did not realize until he told me on the last day of our visit.
His secret is Cup4Cup flour, originally developed by Thomas Keller of French Laundry, which you can sub into most regular recipes without an issue. He shared his recipe for clafouti, which is one of the best I have ever had and is gluten-free: He served it for breakfast, but here I offer it as an easy dessert. Change the fruit at will.
The recipes
Osteria Savio Volpe's kale salad
