An elevated take on a takeout staple

Calcutta Cricket Club

Contemporary Indian restaurants are a rarity in Canada. Perhaps it is because Vikram Vij and his West Coast empire have famously set the bar. It could also be that Indian fare is widely accessible and generally inexpensive, thus resulting in a lack of interest in people seeking more luxurious offerings of the cuisine. Either way, Calcutta Cricket Club is here to claim a stake in this relatively untapped dining category.

This newer concept on the already crowded 17 Avenue Southwest is the second offering from budding local restaurant group, Thank You Hospitality, owned by Cody Willis. The first of which being the successful Native Tongues Taqueria and their third, Two Penny Chinese, also just opened a handful of weeks ago.

Designed by local artist Maya Gohill, the restaurant's bright mish-mash of aqua green and millennial pink in all of its glory commands your attention as it covers the walls, the upholstered chairs, the leather banquets in the middle of the dining room and even extends out to the exterior of the building itself. This colour combination, reminiscent of a Wes Anderson film, is en vogue this year when it comes to restaurant colour schemes, but will likely call for a facelift several years down the road.

Some of the best seats in the house here are along the Moroccan-tiled bar where bartenders step to and fro, shaking drinks under the watchful eye of the vintage carousel leopard mounted above on a dark panelled wall. The padded bamboo bar stools are surprisingly comfortable and nicely spaced, leaving plenty of room for food and drinks without knocking elbows with strangers to your left and right.

Conversely, the more awkward seating is found at the banquet along the window that looks out to 17 Avenue. The large, low-hanging wicker lamps provide a nice glow while one's having dinner, but after watching servers and patrons hit their heads collectively about 20 times in a two-hour period, it's hard not to think that they should probably be measured again.

Headed back to the bar, behind it five nights a week is Madeleine MacDonald, formerly of Model Milk. Her drink list is most complementary to Calcutta's shareable menu and focuses on bright, tropical flavours (as well as plenty of gin) to stand up to the robust spices that grace most dinner plates. The " crushable" gin and tonic is just that, made with sweet mango and a touch of chili. Her turmeric gimlet is also a pleasant homage to a popular Indian ingredient, which is infused into a house-made cordial and combined with gin and lime.

When it comes to chef Rene Bhullar's food, there is no shortage of unique dishes to try. The little semolina puffs filled with potatoes (called panipuri) are the perfect first bites here. Pour a splash of the chilled tamarind-mint water inside before popping one into your mouth for a wonderfully delicious sensation.

Oddly, one of the restaurant's most popular signature dishes is not Indian at all, but, rather, Chinese. Chili chicken – which is an apparent ode to the notable Chinese population in Calcutta – has all the makings of an addictive dish. Big chunks of chicken thighs are fried to golden and crispy perfection and then lovingly glazed in a sticky, slightly sweet sauce with sesame and soy. Thinly sliced green chilies offer a heat that multiplies playfully with every bite. It's the perfect reason to knock back a couple of well-made cocktails, if not several.

Although an interesting application, it's always hard not to compare paneer – served seared, topped with crushed pistachios and a drizzle of honey – with its more flavourful Middle Eastern cousin, halloumi. Fairly tasteless by nature, it's a cheese that needs more assistance than a light dusting of nuts and a touch of sweetness.

The broccolini, tossed in ghee and topped with gunpowder, a dry Indian condiment made up of crushed lentils, sesame seeds and spices, is another one of the more lacklustre options here and could use a little acidity to help lighten up the heaviness of the clarified butter.

Before moving toward bowls of curry, try a kati roll. Grilled kebab meats are wrapped up in warm paratha – a flaky flatbread similar to roti – with onion, chilies, cilantro and a tangy masala sauce. The tandoori-chicken variety is especially palatable.

Curries like the Parsi prawn in coconut-curry sauce or the rich pork-butter masala are fairly predictable in taste and do not disappoint, especially with a side of doughy, hot-off-the-grill naan, though they do seem a little pricey for the smaller portions, offering more sauce than anything.

It's one of those brief moments where you question whether you should have ordered Indian takeout instead. It's hard not to have that idea cross your mind in places that try to elevate food we've come accustomed to paying so little for.

Once it was all said and done, another superb gin cocktail, the saffron martini, stood out on the menu like an intoxicating post-dinner gateway into an even later evening of fun at Calcutta. Sure, why not?