Recipe: Lamb with smashed peas

Start by making the oil. Put a medium pot of salted water to boil over a medium-high flame. Fill a large bowl with cold water and ice. (Both the boiling and ice water will be used for first the herbs and then the peas later on, so do not discard either after making the oil.) Set a fine-meshed sieve over a large liquid measure or a jug with a pouring spout.

Pick a few leaves from the herbs for garnish and set aside. Working in batches as necessary, blanch the rest of the herbs until brightly green, 10 to 15 seconds. As soon as they are unapologetically verdant, retrieve the herbs from their bath with tongs or a slotted spoon and plunge them into the prepared ice water to halt the cooking. Using your hands, squeeze the herbs over the sink to rid of excess water. Drop the wrung herbs into the carafe of an upright blender, along with 1/8 teaspoon kosher salt and the olive oil. Affix the lid and blend until smooth. Pour the oil through the fine-meshed sieve, scraping out the carafe with a silicone spatula. Allow the oil to drain on its own, resisting the compulsion to press down on the solids, or the oil will be murky. Allow to thoroughly drain before discarding the solids. Set aside as you pull together the rest of the meal.

For the peas, bring the pot of water back to a rolling boil if necessary. Pop the whole garlic cloves into the pot for 3 minutes, then tumble in the peas. Cook for 2 minutes more, at which point the peas should be intensely green and the garlic tender. Using a slotted spoon or colander, drain and move the peas and garlic to the ice bath. Let stand for 5 minutes to properly cool.

Use a Y-peeler to cut strips of lemon peel from half the fruit. Slice the strips into julienne. (Alternatively, grate into long strands with the smaller side of a box grater.) Keep aside.

Peel the garlic and add the cloves to the bowl of a food processor with the metal blade attached. Scoop in about 1/2-cup of peas and whirr to a purée, stopping and scraping down the bowl as needed. Tip the rest of the peas into the processor with the juice from half the lemon, then secure the lid and pulse a few times – your aim is an uneven rubble, with some peas whole and some split. Texture is welcomed. Set aside at room temperature as you move on to the lamb.

In a non-reactive baking dish that will hold the lamb snugly, whisk together the buttermilk, coriander seed, cumin, kosher salt and dried chili flakes. Squeeze the second half of the lemon over all. Turn the lamb in the marinade, then cover and leave at room temperature for 30 minutes.

When the marinating time’s almost up, finish the peas and prep the cheese. Discard the solids from the sieve. Fold 2 tablespoons of the herb oil into the peas, along with half the lemon zest. Taste and adjust for seasoning. Tear the burrata into chunks across a serving platter or individual plates. Spoon the peas on and around the burrata. Dress with another tablespoon of herb oil.

Heat a large, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat. Coat the bottom of the pan with a thin sheen of oil. Scrape the marinade off the lamb chops then, working in batches if necessary, fry until golden brown and cooked to your liking, 2 to 3 minutes per side for medium-rare, and adding more olive oil as needed.

When the chops are ready, place them atop the burrata and peas and souse with oil. Strew the reserved zest and herbs across everything, and maybe bestow the meat with an extra smattering of salt. Serve immediately, offering more herb oil at the table. Any leftover oil can be stored, covered in the fridge. Use within a week.