As you bite into a corn hushpuppies, the crust of the firms up along with the middle, with the subtle sweetness of the corn kernels coming through.Tara O’Brady/The Globe and Mail
These hushpuppies evoke the fairground: the scent of corn dogs and all manner of fried, savoury goodness hawked alongside the midway.
There is a bit of a game in eating them, a juggling trick of holding hot fritter with only fingertips to manage that first, crackling bite of brittle exterior – to catch it at peak crunch against the creamed fluff of a centre. It's a technique that requires pulling the lips away from the teeth, with the reward worth the modest risk.
For those sensible enough to wait for them to cool, the rough rounds are still exceptionally tempting. The crust firms up along with the middle, with the subtle sweetness of the corn kernels coming through. A solitary jalapeño sidles up with the herbs to suggest a sense of green, while cornmeal grants both lightness of crumb and a gratifying grit to the crust.
They are made to partner with drinks, but I also have the idea to float them in a bowl of chowder or chili once the weather turns. Or on a plate of beans and ribs at a barbecue, or with beans, eggs, and grilled tomatoes for breakfast. Think of them as a crustier cornbread, or muffin top, and their many uses are self-evident.
When I make hushpuppies, they're usually eaten almost straight from the fryer, snatched as fast as they're cooked. But if you'd rather serve them en masse, place a rimmed baking sheet lined with paper towels in a low oven, 200°F is good, and transfer the fried, drained hushpuppies as they are cooked.
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Servings: Makes about 40 golf ball-sized fritters
For the sauce
1/3 cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon prepared horseradish
1 tablespoon buttermilk, plus more as needed
1 teaspoon honey or granulated sugar
2 tablespoons minced herbs (chives, parsley, cilantro, basil, or a mix)
Freshly-ground black pepper to taste
For the hushpuppies and to serve
2 ears corn, shucked
1 tablespoon butter
2 shallots, minced
1 jalapeño, seeded and minced
2 tablespoons chopped herbs (chives, parsley, cilantro, basil, or a mix)
2/3 cup buttermilk
1 1/4 cup all purpose flour
3/4 cup cornmeal
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda
1 1/4 teaspoons medium-grain kosher salt
2 eggs
Vegetable oil for deep frying
Flaky salt, optional
Honey
Southern-style or Mexican hot sauce (such as Crystal or Cholula)
Sprouts or additional herbs, optional
Method
To make the sauce, stir together the mayonnaise, horseradish, buttermilk, honey, and herbs in a medium bowl. Taste for seasoning, adding pepper as needed. The sauce should run easily off a spoon; stir in more buttermilk if it isn’t. If making in advance cover and refrigerate until needed, up to a few hours. Check consistency before use.
For the fritters, start with the corn. Using a sharp knife, cut the kernels from the cobs into a large bowl. Set aside. Over the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade, carefully scrape the back of the knife against the stripped cobs to extract any milk. Discard the cobs.
In a medium skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Once it has foamed, sauté the shallot until translucent, about 1 minute. Tip in the corn and continue to cook until the kernels are barely tender, stirring regularly. It should take 3 to 5 minutes more. Stir in the jalapeño for the last minute of cooking. Pull the corn from the heat and fold in the herbs.
Pour the buttermilk into the food processor. Scrape in the cooked corn, attach the lid, and process to a coarse purée. Let cool.
Meanwhile, whisk the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, sugar, baking soda, and salt in the bowl the corn was in earlier.
With the motor running on the food processor, add the eggs through the feed tube. Decant the corn mixture onto the dry ingredients. Stir until just combined, being certain not to overmix.
Pour 2 inches of oil in a 5- or 6-quart Dutch oven. Heat over medium-high to 350°F on a deep fry thermometer. Using a spring-loaded scoop or two spoons, place generous tablespoons of batter into the hot oil. Repeat, only frying a few at a time, not overcrowding the pan. Be sure to keep turning the hushpuppies as they bob, so they cook evenly and all the way through. Fry until golden brown and light for their size, around 3 minutes. Drain on paper towels and season with flaky salt or additional kosher.
To serve, anoint the hushpuppies with hot sauce and honey in quantities of your liking. Either offer the sauce in a bowl beside the fritters, or spoon overtop as well. Adorn with sprouts or herbs if using. Eat straight away.