Many famous wine regions are closely identified with a specific style of wine. The mention of Bordeaux or Napa conjures up an image of stately red wines, while New Zealand encourages thoughts of mouth-watering sauvignon blancs. These views don’t capture the nuances of winemaking in those spots – for instance, while 90 per cent of the wines made in Bordeaux are red, not all of them would be considered elegant let alone enjoyable – but they convey the popular opinion amongst wine lovers about the styles of wine produced.
Do I need to decant my red wine?
In many instances, these assumptions need to be checked. Case in point, wine lovers whose gaze has shifted away from the generous style of red wines being produced in South Australia’s Barossa Valley, have missed an evolution in style. The days of densely concentrated and oaky shirazes have passed. Lighter, brighter styles are commonplace, even from stalwarts such as Grant Burge, Torbreck or Wolf Blass. These are still ripe and rewarding red wines, but without the heavyweight physiques.
A new release from St. Hugo is a terrific indication of modern Barossa fashion. A blend of grenache, shiraz and mataro (a.k.a. mourvedre) from the 2021 vintage shows remarkable purity and polish. It’s one of this week’s recommended wines, along with a range of red, white and sparkling wines that should spark joy in the cold, wet fall days ahead.
Alois Lageder Pinot Grigio 2022 (Italy), $24.95
The family-owned Alois Lageder winery is a pioneer in organic and biodynamic farming in northeastern Italy, sharing that know-how with more than 80 regional contract growers. Produced with pinot grigio grapes grown in the southern part of the Alto Adige, this stylish white wine boasts refreshing acidity with a pleasing and smooth texture. The flavour offers a mix of peach, pear and citrus that is easy to appreciate. Drink now to 2025. Available in Ontario.
Bollinger Brut Rosé Champagne (France), $137.95
Bollinger released its first non-vintage rosé in 2008, a late addition for a Champagne producer that got its start in 1829. As is the case with other Champagne houses, Bollinger bases its brut rosé on the style of its popular Special Cuvée, with the addition of 5 to 6 per cent red wine for colour and red fruit flavours. The result is a complex and flavourful pink Champagne with a long, lingering finish. The richer and fuller style makes this stand out from fresh and fruity sparkling rosés. Drink now to 2027. Available at the above price in Ontario, $139.99 in British Columbia and New Brunswick, various prices in Alberta, $135.25 in Quebec, $131.59 in Nova Scotia, $134.39 in Prince Edward Island.
Brigaldara Case Vecie Amarone delle Valpolicella 2016 (Italy), $85.95
This remarkable Amarone is produced from a single vineyard, with a traditional mix of corvina, corvinone and rondinella grapes that are harvested and air dried prior to fermentation. Extended barrel aging, two years in smaller oak barrels, followed by another two years in large oak vessels, contributes to the complexity and character. This is a fragrant and flavourful red wine that’s more poised and powerful than many Amarones, with succulent dried cherry and fig notes mingling with spice and chocolate notes. Drink now to 2032. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $78.25 in Quebec (2017 vintage).
Elyssia Gran Cuvée Brut Cava (Spain), $24.95
Elyssia is a premium Cava made by Freixenet. A traditional method sparkling wine, made with a blend of chardonnay, macabeo, parellada and pinot noir, this is refined and flavourful. There’s a honeyed note, with some tropical and apple flavours, that are balanced by lemony acidity and fine bubbles. Drink now to 2024. Available at the above price in Ontario, $19.45 in Quebec.
Fontanafredda Serralunga d’Alba Barolo 2018 (Italy), $51.95
Fontanafredda farms 247 acres of vineyards in Serralunga d’Alba, one of the most celebrated places to grow the nebbiolo grape in Piedmont. In 2018, the winery produced a satisfying modern take on Barolo that delivers ripe and juicy cherry/berry fruit with fragrant spice notes. The style is approachable, not austere, with terrific concentration, structure and finish. I suspect complexity will develop with bottle age. Drink now to 2032. Available at the above price in Ontario, $49.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $53.50 in Quebec, $57.99 in Nova Scotia.
François Villard L’Appel des Sereines Syrah 2020 (France), $22.95
Produced as a vin de France, this peppery and juicy style of syrah is made from grapes grown on younger vines, with an average age of 15 years, from vineyards in Ardoix, Chavanay, Saint-Michel-sur-Rhône and Verin in the northern Rhône. Consistently enjoyable with easy drinking appeal, this terrific bistro-style red offers a complex mix of ripe fruit and peppery spice notes. Drink now to 2027. Available at the above price in Ontario, $21.50 in Quebec (2021 vintage).
Manoir de Mercey au Paradis 2020 (France), $38.95
The Berger-Rive family owns Manoir de Mercey in Cheilly-lès-Maranges, located in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune. Made from a single vineyard that is home to pinot noir vines that are more than 50 years old, this is a spicy and herbal expression with a core of currants and cherries. Bright acidity contributes to the balanced style that is sure to develop. Drink now to 2030. Available in Ontario.
Nielson Santa Barbara County Chardonnay 2021 (United States), $29.95
Part of Jackson Family Wines, this pinot noir and chardonnay winery was named for Uriel J. Nielson, who planted Santa Barbara’s first commercial vineyard in 1964. Located 29 kilometres from the Pacific Ocean, the site produces ripe and rich chardonnays such as this one. Look for a mix of citrus, pineapple and tropical fruit with some honey, toasty and spicy notes in this crowd-pleasing white wine. Drink now to 2027. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta.
St. Hugo Grenache/Shiraz/Mataro 2021 (Australia), $39.95
St. Hugo is a premium label for Pernod Ricard’s family of Australian wineries (George Wyndham and Jacob’s Creek), which makes wines from classic grape varieties grown in South Australia. This expressive grenache blend shows the modern face of Barossa wine, with more juicy drinkability than knock-out power. A wine with lovely integration and harmony, this gives you plenty to enjoy on its own and is a welcome guest at the dinner table. Drink now to 2031. Available in Ontario.
Umani Ronchi Vellodoro Pecorino 2022 (Italy), $17.95
The pecorino grape makes crisp and refreshing white wines such as this dry and unoaked selection from Umani Ronchi in the central-eastern Italian wine region of Abruzzo. Its balanced and harmonious style makes this enjoyable on its own or matched with a meal. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $31.99 in Saskatchewan, $19.99 in New Brunswick, $21.45 in Newfoundland.
Christopher Waters