A glass of white wine with grapes on a barrelRostislav_Sedlacek/iStockPhoto / Getty Images
Wine is commonly believed to get better over time, but most white wines available today are meant to be opened and enjoyed. Their allure is as fleeting as a Roman candle firework, so enjoy the burst of fruity freshness while you may. But wine lovers looking to stock their cellars have options for white wines that can develop more complexity and character.
The grape variety and winemaking techniques used can help to determine the age-worthiness of a wine. Grapes for white wine production are usually pressed and the separated juice is fermented. To make red wines, grape skins, solids and juice are macerated together before and after fermentation to extract desirable aroma and flavour as well as colour, tannin and other compounds, which impact character and age-ability.
Tannins in red wines provide structure and are antioxidants that help preserve the wine. Wines made from grape varieties with higher levels of tannin, such as cabernet sauvignon, nebbiolo and sangiovese, typically age best. (Aging in oak barrels is another source of tannin. The amount released depends on the type of oak and the toast level.)
White wines that are suitable for aging rely on acidity and, in some cases, sweetness to slow the oxidation process, which is what makes wines lose freshness and flavour. As a result, simple, refreshing and inexpensive pinot grigio or other light, dry, unoaked whites don’t have potential to develop in bottle. Instead of aging gracefully, after two or three years they’ll get tired and taste flat and dull.
But there are several white wine styles that can improve over years or decades with proper cellaring. Sweeter styles, such as Icewine and Sauternes, are less fashionable, but are built to last.
Regional white wine varieties from Greece and Portugal, such as assyritiko, arinto or encruzado, are prime candidates, but can be difficult to find. Even good bottles of semillon from Australia’s Hunter Valley or gruner veltliner from Austria aren’t consistently available; savvy collectors snap them up whenever possible. But for anyone interested, there’s steady supply of these three whites that are ready to drink or age.
Chardonnay Higher acidity and added tannins from barrel aging extend the runway for well-made chardonnay. Serious wines, labelled 1er Cru or Grand Cru, from the Burgundy region should drink nicely at 10 to 15 years of age. The best examples from Chablis, which have characters more focused on acidity, will hold for longer. Winemakers in many other parts of the world, including many Canadian producers have delivered local expressions of Burgundy’s rich and refreshing style. To my taste, the five-to-seven-year drinking window is good spot, with nicely balanced fruit flavours and integrated oak notes.
Chenin Blanc Another high acid grape variety, chenin blanc is used to produce an extensive range of still and sparkling wines, including sweet Demi-Sec and Moelleux styles from the Loire Valley that can age for many decades. Dry examples from the Loire, notably Savennières, Vouvray and Montlouis, and South Africa are cellar-worthy thanks to their captivating character, a winning combination of style, acidity and concentration.
Riesling German rieslings have great credentials for ageability. Wines from celebrated producers in the Mosel, Rheingau and elsewhere are proven to improve in bottle for decades. The perception of sweetness in riper styles, such as Spätlese or Auslese, tends to dial down as these wines age. And, as the perception of natural grape sugar diminishes, more complex flavour nuances emerge. Equally fine examples are coming out of Alsace, Australia and Austria as well as British Columbia, Ontario and New York State.