Steven & Andrew’s 'crab' cakes made with vegan tinned 'crab.'Julie Van Rosendaal/The Globe and Mail
Fish and seafood packed in round and rectangular tins, wrapped in colourful, superbly designed paper, have become increasingly popular outside Spain and Portugal in recent years. Though tins have been used to preserve seafood since the 1700s, the appeal of shelf-stable and ready-to-eat protein was buoyed during the pandemic, and by cocktail bars and taprooms seeking easy, upscale packaged snacks that don’t require a kitchen.
And, of course, social media played a role in its popularity: Last year, San Francisco chef Ali Hooke posted a “seacuterie” board of tinned fish and accoutrements for herself and her husband, hashtagging it “tinned fish date night.” It prompted tinned fish-related posts with billions of views, as others jumped on board.
Beautifully packaged tinned seafood isn’t accessible to everyone. Some varieties can be extremely pricey – razor clams, squid, octopus and cockles were recently spotted on a market shelf in Calgary with a price range of $31.99 to $77.99. And sustainability – the impact fishing and the seafood industry has on ocean health – is a consideration for many, regardless of their dietary choices.
Toronto-based startup Seed to Surf is addressing some of these concerns. One of the newest companies to offer more options within the flourishing plant-based meat sector, it’s been reimagining tinned seafood using whole vegetables and fungi. There’s a smoked “whitefish” made with celery root, and “snow crab” made with enoki mushrooms and flavoured with seaweeds such as kelp, knob and kombu. The small tins come packaged in beautifully designed boxes, in keeping with tradition, and retail for $10.
The plant-based options can be swapped for their ocean-based counterparts into pastas, casseroles, melts and tartines, baked dips and any other application you can think of. The enoki mushroom “crab” is delicious in these crispy cakes, and the celery root whitefish made a fantastic, slightly smoky “tuna” melt.
And, like regular tinned seafood, they’re perfect for gatherings or as a party-style coffee-table snack. Simply peel open a can or two and set out on a board with crackers or toast, some pickles or capers, some thinly sliced pickled onion or preserved lemon. And because canned food tends to have a soft, briny texture, something crunchy and juicy – such as thinly sliced radishes, tart apple or purple onion – is always a good idea.
Recipe: Steven & Andrew’s “crab” cakes made with vegan tinned “crab”
Adapted (only slightly) from Seed to Surf, these simple, tasty cakes would also be delicious with the company’s celeriac “whitefish,” chopped to a finer texture. The recipe is easily halved to feed one or two.
2 tins Seed to Surf’s Enoki Mushroom Snow Crab, drained
3/4 cup panko or other dry breadcrumbs
2 tbsp vegan mayonnaise
2 tbsp chopped chives, plus extra for garnish
2 tsp Dijon mustard
1 lemon
1/4 cup finely chopped red pepper (optional)
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Unsalted vegan butter or vegetable oil, for cooking
Tartar sauce:
1/4 cup vegan mayonnaise
2 tbsp chopped dill, parsley or chives
2 tbsp chopped dill pickles
1 tbsp capers, chopped
In a medium bowl, combine the Seed to Surf Enoki Mushroom Snow Crab, breadcrumbs, mayonnaise, chives, mustard and the zest and juice of half the lemon; set aside the other half to cut into wedges and serve with the crab cakes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let sit for 10 minutes, or cover and refrigerate until ready to use.
To make the tartar sauce, combine the mayonnaise, herbs, pickles and capers in a small bowl and mix until combined.
Divide the crab cake mixture evenly into four portions. Lightly press each portion to form a patty while you heat some butter or oil in a non-stick or well-seasoned cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. When the pan is hot (which will reduce sticking), cook the crab cakes for 3 to 5 minutes, or until golden brown on the bottom, then use a thin spatula to flip and continue to cook for a few minutes on the other side, until deep golden.
Serve the crab cakes with the tartar sauce and lemon wedges. Serves 2 to 4.