Ice wine grapes are harvested in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ont.DAVE CHIDLEY/The Canadian Press
The holiday season extends many joys, not least the opportunity to indulge in baked goods and re-watch A Christmas Story for the umpteenth time. As a wine writer, it’s an annual excuse to write about sweet wines often dismissed as being too extravagant to be a daily joy.
Festive entertaining is often an occasion that calls for bringing out the fine china to set the table. Dessert wines, such as late harvest rieslings or PX sherries, can be viewed as the vinous equivalent of your fancy place settings. Too rich and opulent in style for everyday enjoyment, they lay in wait of a special occasion. But for anyone looking for a reason to enjoy, ask yourself, if not now, when?
Late Harvest Wines
Despite being one of the world’s great wines, Canadian Icewine is suffering from sluggish sales and declining production. The expensive price and lusciously sweet character of Icewine limit the potential audience, but what about the variety of late harvest wines produced in this country? Less expensive and sweet, these are rich and rewarding wines that are too often overlooked. A small glass of aromatic and flavourful late harvest riesling or vidal is dessert for me after a big meal. Once opened, that bottle can last for three to five days. Bottles of note: Cave Spring Select Late Harvest Riesling, Henry of Pelham Special Select Late Harvest Vidal, Peller Estates Private Reserve Late Harvest Vidal, SpearHead Botrytis Affected Late Harvest Riesling, Trius Showcase Late Harvest Vidal.
Moscato d’Asti
These intensely fragrant and fruity white wines are made in a gently fizzy style in Piedmont. They typically offer a crowd-pleasing mix of peach, citrus and melon flavours with some honey and spice notes. The sweetness comes from stopping fermentation to leave unfermented grape sugar from the muscat bianco (aka muscat blanc a petit grains). Local regulations restrict alcohol levels to 6.5 per cent or lower. As is the case with all well-made sweet wines, the best examples are charming, not cloying in nature. Producers in Asti frequently hail this as the perfect breakfast wine. I would say it’s floral and frothy character make this a lovely wine to sip on while presents are being opened or at brunch with fruit salads or a selection of hard cheeses, roasted nuts and cured meats. Producers of note: Brandini, G.D. Vajra, Michele Chiarlo.
Pedro Ximenez (PX)
These dark and super sweet, fortified wines are made from pedro ximenez grapes that were harvested early to preserve the natural acidity before being air dried to become raisins. Typically made in the Montilla-Moriles region in Andalucia, these fig, toffee and treacle flavoured wines are concentrated with a syrupy texture that I find delicious. I think they show best in a white wine glass, served slightly chilled. The half bottle will keep for up to two months in the refrigerator. Producers of note: Alvear, Gonzalez Byass, Valdespino.