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waters on wine

Of course, you don’t need to splurge on a big-ticket bottle of bubbly to toast 2024′s arrival. There are plenty of well-made, well-priced fizzy wines to pop open at the stroke of midnight.

Owing to their overwhelming popularity, proseccos from Italy are stocked everywhere, while equally affordable cavas from Spain and crémants from France are other options to consider. Sparkling wine is also a strong suit for wineries across Canada, with many serious expressions selling for less than the cheapest Champagne available at Canadian stores.

The dark side of popping champagne

That said, I’m here to share some favourite Champagnes for anyone who is looking for something that’s rich and rewarding in style as well as being celebratory enough to turn any party into an occasion. After years of being in short supply, bottles of Champagne are once again easy to find on liquor-store shelves. Here are five that truly deliver alongside some other recommendations for some expressive Champagne stand-ins.

13th Street Premier Cuvée Sparkling 2017 (Canada), $39.95

Rating:92 /100

The Premier Cuvée label, which has been produced at 13th Street since its launch in 1998, continues to be one of Niagara’s best classically made sparkling wines. A blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, this is made in a rich and refreshing style with complex flavours and a persistent finish. A serious and flavourful character makes this a serious sparkling wine to enjoy on its own or with a meal. Drink now to 2027. Available in Ontario.

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Bailly Lapierre Réserve Brut Crémant de Bourgogne (France), $24.95

Rating:90 /100

Typically made as a blend of chardonnay, pinot noir, gamay and aligoté, this multivintage, traditional-method sparkling wine from Burgundy offers a nice fruity character that’s approachable and refreshing. Decent complexity for the price. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $30.99 in British Columbia, $22.99 in Quebec.

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Benjamin Bridge Méthode Classique Brut Sparkling (Canada), $32.95

Rating:90 /100

A fragrant and flavourful blend of l’acadie and chardonnay from Benjamin Bridge, this is a rich and enjoyable sparkling wine from one of Canada’s top producers. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $27.75 in Manitoba, $29.99 in Nova Scotia, $30.99 in Prince Edward Island, $32.69 in Newfoundland.

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Bollinger Special Cuvée Brut Champagne (France), $96.45

Rating:94 /100

A perennial favourite, Bollinger Special Cuvée delivers classic character in the form of rich savoury and biscuity notes. Rich and well structured, this has compelling flavours with tremendous balance between the acidity and fruit flavours. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario, $104.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $104.99 in Manitoba, $97.75 in Quebec, $105.36 in Nova Scotia, $105.99 in Prince Edward Island.

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Dom Pérignon Brut Vintage Champagne 2013 (France), $353.95

Rating:95 /100

Dom Pérignon stands out because of its distinctive label and iconic reputation. A vintage dated Champagne that’s produced in exceptional years, its style often shifts from year to year based on the growing season. (There will not be any released from the 2014 or 2016 vintages.) The latest release of Dom is the 2013 vintage, where cold and wet conditions in the spring made for a later harvest. At first look, it’s more restrained on the palate compared with the more concentrated and engaging style of the 2012 vintage but develops more savoury and fruity flavours as it opens in the glass. This seems made for the cellar. Drink now to 2037. Available at the above price in Ontario, $319.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $351.99 in Saskatchewan, $375.99 in Manitoba, $343.75 in Quebec, $326.29 in New Brunswick, $329.99 in Nova Scotia, $336.89 in Prince Edward Island, $380.11 in Newfoundland.

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Ferrari Brut Sparkling (Italy), $28.95

Rating:91 /100

F1 racing fans will recognize this expressive Italian sparkling wine as the label that’s sprayed around the winner’s circle. This isn’t fruity and fizzy Prosecco. It is a classically made traditional method (à la production method of Champagne) from Alto Adige that is vibrant and flavourful. Ferrari is a great value producer to watch for. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, $31.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $25.75 in Quebec, $39.99 in New Brunswick.

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Laurent Perrier La Cuvée Brut Champagne (France), $79.95

Rating:91 /100

Laurent Perrier has an incredible reputation thanks to the consistent quality of its rosé Champagnes. The current release of La Cuvée Brut shows its classic is also worthy of consideration. Rich and toasty flavours are counterbalanced by fresh character that makes this really satisfying. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $76 in Quebec.

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Taittinger Brut Réserve Champagne (France), $75.80

Rating:90 /100

Taittinger excels at producing a range of exceptional vintage Champagnes for its Comtes portfolio, but can also be counted on to deliver an appealing multivintage blend that conveys the elegance and complexity of its house style. Look for an alluring mix of floral and fruity aromas with a winning mix of creamy and toasty flavours that add interest. This is an expressive and crowd-pleasing style that’s always a safe bet. Drink now. Keep an eye out for the equally appealing Taittinger Prestige Rosé Champagne. Available at the above price in Ontario ($69.80 until Dec. 31), $76.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta and Saskatchewan, $74.75 in Quebec, $100 in Nova Scotia (Bishop’s Cellars).

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Val d’Oca Prosecco (Italy), $18.95

Rating:88 /100

Produced with glera grapes grown in vineyards located in the Valdobbiadene region of the Veneto, this is more concentrated and complex model of prosecco. Look for peach and apricot flavours with floral and citrus notes that add interest. The fruity and balanced style is enjoyable on its own and works as an excellent base for a bellini or mimosa. Drink now. Available in Ontario.

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Vilmart et Cie Grande Réserve 1er Cru Champagne (France), $80.95

Rating:92 /100

Grande Réserve is Vilmart’s only Champagne produced with a majority of pinot noir in the blend (combined with 30 per cent chardonnay). The result is a bright and stylish sparkling wine with appealing apple and citrus notes and a lively finish. It’s an enjoyable aperitif style. Drink now to 2025. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in British Columbia, $68 in Quebec.

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