In 1973, Maurizio Zanella returned from a trip to France with the bold idea to produce great sparkling wine on the Italian property his family used as a holiday home. Visits to Burgundy and Champagne had opened his eyes to the viticultural potential of the area outside of Milan, in Lombardy, that would become the heart of the Ca’ del Bosco wine estate.
Building on the humble beginnings of his family’s winery, which was established in 1969, Zanella constructed a state-of-the-art winery to produce some of Italy’s top traditional method sparkling wines. The challenge in the early days was making the case that sparkling wine made in Franciacorta could compete with ones made in Champagne.
Today the winery controls 250 hectares of vineyards in Franciacorta, where chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot blanc are farmed organically to produce Ca’ del Bosco’s range of sparkling wines. Chardonnay is the star here, while pinot noir and pinot blanc play supporting roles, contributing structure and freshness respectively.
The flagship wine is Cuvée Prestige. The base is primarily chardonnay with smaller additions of pinot noir and pinot blanc and includes a portion of older wines to add complexity, texture and weight. After secondary fermentation to produce the bubbles, it is aged for more than two years with the dead yeast that contributes nutty and biscuit aromas and flavours to the wine.
The 44th edition of Cuvée Prestige is the current release. It’s a sparkling wine with rich character that is elegant and approachable, a winning style that endorses Zanella’s remarkable vision.
Grimsby Hillside Frontier Block Chardonnay 2020 (Canada), $49
Frontier in this case refers to the location of the vineyard, which is within Hamilton’s city limits, the extreme edge of viticulture in Niagara wine country. Early signs point to it being an exceptional location for chardonnays, such as this rich and inviting white wine from Thomas Bachelder. This offers a winning combination of weight, ripe fruit and freshness, with complexity to develop. Drink now to 2028. Available direct, bachelderniagara.com
Ca’ del Bosco Cuvée Prestige Extra Brut Franciacorta (Italy), $46.95
One of the best-known sparkling wine producers in Italy, Ca’ del Bosco is an organic winery in Franciacorta. A blend of chardonnay with pinot noir and pinot blanc, this is the 44th release of Cuvée Prestige. It is an expressive sparkler with an attractive mix of citrus, melon and peach flavours rounded out by nutty, honeyed and toasty notes. The dry and refined character make this an enjoyable aperitif style. Drink now to 2025. Available in Ontario at the above price, various prices in Alberta and Manitoba, $45.50 in Quebec, $48.99 in Nova Scotia, $51.98 in Prince Edward Island.
Carpineto Chianti Classico Riserva 2017 (Italy), $29.95
This classically made Tuscan red wine shows remarkable complexity on the nose and palate. The sophisticated mix of dark fruit, herbal and savoury notes add to the appeal. Vibrant acidity and some bitter tannins on the finish suggest this style is best enjoyed with a meal. Drink now to 2030. Available in Ontario at the above price, various prices in Alberta, $35.99 in Manitoba, $30.50 in Quebec (2016 vintage).
Domaine du Pourpre 2019 (France), $26.95
Domaine du Pourpre is a fifth-generation estate, with well-established vineyards that contribute to the concentrated and compelling style of this enjoyable red wine. It’s a delicious introduction to the easygoing and satisfying charms of cru Beaujolais. The mix of pepper, floral and fruit (concentrated dark fruit) combined with silky tannins and a vibrant finish make this a standout. Bottled by Georges Duboeuf. Drink now to 2032. Available in Ontario at the above price, $26.10 in Quebec.
Duckhorn Chardonnay 2021 (United States), $49.95
Duckhorn selects grapes grown in vineyards across Napa, from Los Carneros and Oak Knoll to Atlas Peak and St. Helena, for this rich and rewarding style of chardonnay. That array of cooler and warmer sites makes for a white wine with range of fruit flavours from zesty lemon to juicy pineapple that are enhanced by oak spice and toasty notes. Drink now to 2025. Available in Ontario at the above price,
Escorihuela Gascon 1884 Estate Grown Malbec 2020 (Argentina), $17.95
This estate-grown malbec comes primarily from a vineyard in Agrelo, which yields an approachable soft and supple red wine with winning complexity. Bright fruit flavours combine with smoked meat and savoury notes that add interest to the nose and palate. Drink now-2024. Available in Ontario at the above price, $19.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta.
Gaston Chiquet Grand Cru d’Aÿ Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne (France), $66.95
This family-owned Champagne producer has planted chardonnay in the village of Aÿ, which is best known for the quality of its pinot noir. One taste of this rich and refreshing sparkling wines shows there are on to something. This is a remarkable Champagne, with bright citrus, stony and honeyed notes that really impress. Drink now to 2028. Available in Ontario.
Knappstein Clare Valley Shiraz 2019 (Australia), $19.95
A terrific expression of shiraz from the Clare Valley, this offers spicy fragrance, with peppery and clove notes, and a core of ripe dark fruit flavours. A nicely structured wine with real substance and intensity, this is nicely layered in a comforting style that’s ready to drink or tuck away in the cellar. Drink now to 2035. Available in Ontario.
Vasse Felix Filius Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 (Australia), $27.95
Established in Western Australia in 1967, Vasse Felix has earned international acclaim for cabernet its and other wines made from four estate vineyards. Filius is the introductory label, made to show the bright and juicy personality of cabernet from this coastal region. This ripe and youthful, with plush fruit flavours accented by savoury and leafy notes. The finish is long and persistent. Drink now to 2029. Available in Ontario at the above price, $29.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $25.25 in Quebec.
Plan your weekend with our Good Taste newsletter, offering wine advice and reviews, recipes, restaurant news and more. Sign up today.