Grapes grow at the Kanonkop Wine Estate in Stellenbosch, South Africa. The pinotage grape is largely associated with South Africa, but it is also planted in other winemaking regions, including British Columbia.Supplied
During my first visit to South Africa 20 years ago, a fellow Canadian journalist thrust his glass of red wine towards me and asked: “Is this corked or is it pinotage?” Years later, pinotage remains a love-it-or-hate-it grape variety, but the ninth annual Pinotage Day on Oct. 14 hopes to cast South Africa’s signature grape variety in a different light.
Developed by a crossing of pinot noir and cinsault aka hermitage, in Stellenbosh in 1925, pinotage continues to be summarily dismissed by sommeliers and wine lovers who remember examples characterized by burnt rubber and nail polish remover notes.
However, there’s isn’t one style of pinotage, just as there isn’t a singular approach to chardonnay, merlot or syrah. The overall quality and range of styles has improved thanks in large part to the ongoing efforts of South African winemakers working together on the Pinotage Association. (The grape is largely associated with South Africa, but small amounts of pinotage vines are planted in other winemaking regions, including British Columbia.)
Changes made in the vineyard and the cellar allow pinotage to produce lighter, fruity and smooth wines as well as full-bodied, spicy and complex examples, including some of South Africa’s most celebrated wines. There are also a compelling range of so-called Cape Blends, where pinotage (30 to 70 per cent) is blended with other varieties like merlot and cabernet sauvignon.
The pinotage grape was developed by a crossing of pinot noir and cinsault, aka hermitage, in Stellenbosh in 1925.Supplied
Well-made wines made with the pinotage grape can suggest a range of red and black fruit flavours, such as plum, cherry and blackberry, as well as savoury and herbaceous characters. Age-worthy and more expensive examples are aged in oak barrels, which contributes complexity from smoke, spice and chocolate notes. Meanwhile, the fashion for coffee-style pinotages seems to be fading as sales of labels like Barista, Café Culture and The Grinder dimmish. To make these dark roast and mocha flavoured reds, winemakers use heavily toasted oak and specially selected yeast strains during fermentation.
There is potential for pinotage to be a unique selling opportunity for South Africa and become what zinfandel is for California or carménère is to Chile, but the challenge to building the category is finding bottles on shelves. Top pinotage producers include Beyerskloof, Kanonkop, Kaapzicht, L’Avenir and Southern Right, which can be available through speciality outlets and seasonal releases. I was happy to find a lighter, juicier style at the LCBO right now: The Winery of Good Hope Full Berry Fermentation Pinotage 2021 ($16.95), which strikes me as a nice introduction to a grape variety that’s looking make an impression for the right reasons.