To my taste, the lively and electric personality of sauvignon blanc is most tempting in the spring. That unmistakable burst of flavour wakes up the senses after the cold and overcast days of winter, but wines made from the exuberant grape variety can charm whatever the weather.
Recent tastings have underscored the variety’s ability to create a range of wine styles, depending on where it’s grown and whether it’s presented as a solo act or part of a blend. Six expressions of sauvignon blanc are recommended this week. They range from the pungent and assertive style popularized by wineries in Marlborough, New Zealand, to richly textured blends and riper expressions from warmer regions. Add in sparkling and sweeter examples not featured here, there’s a sauvignon blanc for every occasion.
If zesty and flavourful white wines aren’t to your taste, there are two enjoyable reds to consider. A richly concentrated malbec from Mendoza’s Uco Valley delivers crowd-pleasing character, while a juicy and refreshing frappato from Sicily is a terrific introduction to a regional grape variety that many red wine fans are sure to appreciate.
Boschendal Suzanne 2022 (South Africa), $42.95
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Named for Suzanne de Lanoy, one of the pioneers of the Boschendal estate established in 1685, this is a blend of 54-per-cent semillon and 46-per-cent sauvignon blanc from vineyards in the cooler Elgin region. Fermentation and aging for six months took place in 500-litre French oak barrels to enhance the weight and texture of the finished wine. The result is a refreshing and lively white, with appealing fragrance and character. The mix of tropical, citrus and herbal (elderflower, sorrel) makes this enticing now, but this has the acidity and structure to develop into a richer style. Drink now to 2032. Available in Ontario.
Dona Paula Estate Malbec 2022 (Argentina), $18.05
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This estate-grown malbec from Uco Valley is made with grapes from Finca Alluvia in Gualtallary, Tupungato, at 1,350 metres (4,430 feet) with 10 per cent from Finca Los Indios in El Cepillo, San Carlos. True to the consistently enjoyable house style, this delivers a core of fresh cherry and berry fruit with peppery and floral notes. Richness and concentration add depth to this easygoing dry red wine. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario, $19.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $15.99 in Manitoba, $20.29 in Nova Scotia, $17.99 in Prince Edward Island.
Emmolo Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (United States), $24.95
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One of the Wagner family’s California wineries, Emmolo is headed up by Jenny Wagner who focuses her efforts on merlot, sauvignon blanc and sparkling wine. This ripe and refreshing sauvignon blanc is a blend of grapes grown in the Suisun Valley, in Solano County, and the Napa Valley. The flavour suggests a satisfying mix of citrus and apple fruit with a subtle floral note. This is nicely balanced, with some grip to the texture that adds to the enjoyment. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in British Columbia and Alberta, $24.99 in Manitoba, $25.05 in Quebec.
Hãhã Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (New Zealand), $19.95
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Grapes from vineyards in the Wairau and Awatere Valleys are used to produce this straightforward and fruity expression of Marlborough sauvignon blanc. The crisp and juicy style offers citrussy and grassy flavours as part of a dry white wine with good intensity and balance. Drink now. Available in Ontario.
Hidden Bench Rosomel Vineyard Fumé Blanc 2021 (Canada), $29.95
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Grape grower Roman Prydatkewycz established the Rosomel vineyard on Niagara’s Beamsville Bench in 1976. The property was purchased in 2002 by Hidden Bench’s owner Harald Thiel, who bottles a number of single-vineyard wines for his estate wine portfolio. This ripe and intense barrel-fermented sauvignon blanc is produced from organically grown sauvignon blanc grapes harvested from vines ranging from seven to 28 years of age. The style is vibrant and complex, offering a satisfying mix of citrus (grapefruit, lemon, mandarin) and herbal (grassy, fennel) notes with richness and texture from the fermentation and nine months aging in a mix of old and new (18 per cent) French oak barrels. Drink now to 2029. Available in Ontario at the above price, $29.75 direct from hiddenbench.com, $34.25 in Quebec.
Hillside Chef’s Whites 2023 (Canada), $35
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During the 2023 harvest, winemaker Kathy Malone needed to combine chardonnay and sauvignon blanc grapes to fill the press, which resulted in the base for this new white blend. Chef’s Whites is a mix of sauvignon blanc, semillon and chardonnay, fermented and aged in older oak barrels, an egg-shaped terracotta vessel and stainless-steel tanks, which result in a nicely textured and focused wine. The flavour combines citrus, apple and stone-fruit notes, with some earthy and grassy accents. Drink now to 2026. Available direct, hillsidewinery.com.
Orestiadi Mazal Frappato 2021 (Italy), $18.95
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Native to Sicily, the frappato grape can produce juicy, refreshing and, dare I say, fun red wines such as this. It’s awash in cherry, berry and black currant (Ribena fans take note) flavours, with floral (lavender, violets), white pepper and leather notes contributing to the fragrance and complexity. The supple texture and medium-bodied style benefits from serving slightly chilled in a Burgundy glass, while the dry finish suggests this is best enjoyed with a meal. It’s a classic pizza, pasta and burger red by design, but also an offbeat selection for Thanksgiving or holiday dinners. Drink now to 2026. Available in Ontario.
Tohu Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (New Zealand), $26.99
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This bright and ripe model of Marlborough sauvignon blanc comes exclusively from vineyards located in the dry and windy Awatere Valley. Wines from this region typically offer more succulent tropical fruit and citrus flavours than greener lemongrass and herbal notes. Expect juicy passionfruit and pineapple mingling with zesty lime and grapefruit notes as part of this expressive white wine’s character. Drink now. Vegan-friendly. Available at the above price in British Columbia, $24.99 in Manitoba.