Crispy Crushed Potato Salad with Asparagus and Sauce GribicheJulie Van Rosendaal/The Globe and Mail
As we slide into the (potato) salad days of summer, it might be time to rethink how we cook our spuds when they are destined to be tossed with chopped celery and mayo. Potatoes are famously versatile, with so much potential to be transformed by dry heat or hot oil into something crispy on the outside, fluffy and creamy within – and yet many tend to stop at the first step: boiling, the blandest of the potato cooking methods.
Soft, boiled potatoes are divine mashed with butter or simmered in soup – but why stop there when they have so much more potential? The most celebrated potatoes are lauded for their golden colour and audible crispness – high heat (plus oil – an excellent heat conduit) creates a crunchy exterior that prevents the potato from absorbing its saucy surroundings, and allows for the Maillard reaction to develop complex layers of toasty flavour.
Contrasting textures make any dish more interesting – but building a salad itself on crispy-crunchy-creamy roasted potatoes is next-level. When new potatoes are in their prime, boiling and flattening them with a fork or potato masher will maximize their surface area – and while asparagus is also in season, you can toss a handful of stalks onto the sheet to roast along with them. Cook until soft enough to squish, and the split, craggy edges will produce the most crispy bits, which is an excellent quality for any potato salad to have.
Crispy Crushed Potato Salad with Asparagus and Sauce Gribiche
Sauce gribiche is a classic French sauce made by emulsifying hard-boiled egg with oil, mustard, capers and cornichons … all perfect pairings with crunchy-edged potatoes and asparagus. Toss the veg with the sauce to dress it, or serve it spooned overtop. (Do this right before serving, to keep the potatoes crispy.) Boiled egg makes it gribiche, but it’s just as delicious – similar to tartar sauce – without.
1 lb new or fingerling potatoes
olive, canola or other vegetable oil, for cooking
salt, to taste
4-6 asparagus stalks, tough ends trimmed
Sauce Gribiche:
1 hard-boiled egg (traditional, but optional)
2 tbsp mayonnaise
2 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp regular or grainy Dijon mustard
1 tbsp white or red wine vinegar
1/4 cup chopped parsley, tarragon, dill or chervil (or a combination)
6-8 cornichons (gherkins), roughly chopped
1 tbsp capers, drained and chopped (plus extra for on top, if you like)
Put your potatoes in a large saucepan, cover them with water and bring to a boil; add an egg, if you want one for your sauce gribiche, and set the timer for 10 minutes. Remove the egg and test the potatoes for doneness; cook for a few more minutes, if necessary (this will depend on the size and shape of your potatoes), until tender. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 425 F.
Drain the potatoes and spread them out on a parchment or foil-lined sheet (not necessary, but will make for easier clean-up); crush each potato with a fork or potato masher. Drizzle with oil and sprinkle with salt, and roast for 15-20 minutes, until they’re turning golden.
Add the asparagus to the pan – drizzle them with oil and sprinkle with salt, too – and return to the oven for 5-10 minutes, until the asparagus is tender and the potatoes are deeper golden and crispy. If you like, chop the asparagus into 1-inch (or even smaller) pieces.
Meanwhile, make the sauce gribiche: peel the egg and grate or mash it in a medium bowl; add the remaining ingredients and stir to combine them well. If you like, drain a spoonful of extra capers and fry in a small skillet in a couple tablespoons of oil until they open up and turn crisp; you can add the caper-y oil to the sauce, or save it to drizzle over the finished salad.
Right when you’re ready to serve it (and it’s delicious if they’re still warm), toss the potatoes and asparagus (left whole, or chopped) with the sauce gribiche, or divide them between serving plates or bowls and drizzle the sauce on top. Top with fried capers and a drizzle of the caper-y oil, if you made them.
Serves about four.