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I find myself drinking and talking a lot about the white wines of Vinho Verde these days. These expressive, enjoyable and inexpensive wines from northern Portugal have never looked or tasted better.
Popular brands like Aveleda, Casa Garcia and Gazela have been staples at liquor stores across the country for decades and embody the light and fresh, subtly sweet and fizzy style that most associate with Vinho Verde. If Portugal’s largest white wine producing region only produced these fruity and refreshing styles, with modest alcohol levels around 10 per cent, it would still be worthy of our attention, especially on scorching hot summer days and nights when a cool and refreshing wine is a welcome tonic. But Vinho Verde has more to offer as we see a ground swell of new and innovative labels in wine shops.
There’s an increasing move across the region in northwestern Portugal to produce more premium examples, with concentration and complexity, in a variety of styles. In addition to the popular blends than can use any of the 20-plus native grape varieties to produce white Vinho Verde, the stars of the local vineyards are being given the chance to shine. There are also increasing numbers of wines coming from smaller subregions in the area, notably Moncao e Melgaco. Usually selling for less than $20 a bottle in markets across the country, these top-quality wines still are terrific bargains.
For instance, the old faithful Aveleda Vinho Verde white wine is flanked by siblings; the family-owned winery is also offering Canadian consumers labels sporting the names of grape varieties, such as Alvarinho and Loureiro. The Aveleda Loureiro 2019 is a welcome addition to the shelves at selected LCBO outlets in Ontario, while other provinces are seeing the new look Aveleda Alvarinho/Loureiro blend or Aveleda Alvarinho for the first time.
More premium selections to watch are made by the region’s most famous winemaker, Anselmo Mendes, as well as pioneering producers like Quinta de Covela, Quinta de Soalheiro and Quinta do Ameal.
Many of the conditions that saw rosé become the one of the biggest global wine trends can be associated in the whites from Vinho Verde, which translates literally to “green wines.” It’s one of the most affordable wines available. It’s not taken seriously outside of its local market except by savvy consumers. Its bright and refreshing style pairs well with a wide assortment of dishes, but can just as easily be enjoyed on its own. All that’s needed is for Post Malone, Sarah Jessica Parker or Cristiano Ronaldo to add some superstar appeal and Portugal’s green wines could be the new pink!
Of course, there’s a significant difference from rosé, which is a style of wine made pretty much any place where grapes are grown. These wines are only made in the northern corner of Portugal so other winemaking regions cannot help to generate more excitement. They’re on their own. But even if Vinho Verde doesn’t become the next big thing in wine, know that it’s ready to add pleasure and refreshment to your summer.
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