Visitors tour the grounds of the Robert Mondavi Winery in Oakville, Calif., in 2009.Eric Risberg/The Associated Press
Tasting new releases from established producers is an annual chance to reconnect with a winery and see how they are evolving.
Some brands prize consistency, striving for a recognizable house style. That’s often the case for sparkling and fortified wine producers that blend different grapes, vineyards and vintages for a desired flavour.
Others are less rigid. They want their vintage dated wines to reflect how they reacted to the quality of fruit Mother Nature and their efforts delivered.
I’m excited by quality producers that check both boxes; reflecting changing conditions in the vineyard year after year while delivering wines of a consistent character. That’s the case with Robert Mondavi Winery, which has been producing compelling sauvignon blanc from vineyards in Napa Valley since the 1960s.
Mondavi’s established style is based on grapes from vineyards in two regions, with sauvignon blanc blended with a small percentage of semillon; the exact amount varies from vintage to vintage as the winemaking team seeks to strike the best balance.
The fourth vintage of Hidden Bench’s gamay shows a house style taking shape. The winemaking approach pushes the grape that Beaujolais made famous into more of complex and ripe red wine that’s more like pinot noir in nature.
Those two signature styles are featured with seven other enjoyable wines including the first cabernet franc release from Liebling, a new family winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake. Time will tell which winemaking approach the Oppenlaenders adopt as they progress.
Bodega Garzon Maldonado Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (Uruguay), $19.95
Located 20 kilometres from the Atlantic Ocean, Garzon’s vineyards successfully ripen a range of grapes including its signature varieties, albarino and tannat, and sauvignon blanc. The Maldonado Sauvignon Blanc is a leaner and pithy expression of the variety. The pure and intense flavour profile offers snappy citrus and grassy notes that make this an ideal aperitif or oyster wine. Drink now. Available in Ontario.
Bodega Norton Barrel Select Malbec 2023 (Argentina), $13.95
Norton’s Barrel Select is a simple and enjoyable expression of malbec that makes the most of its juicy fruit character and soft texture. Despite the barrel reference on the label, half of the blend is tank-aged to keep this dry red fresh. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in British Columbia and Alberta, $16.99 in Manitoba, $14.60 in Quebec, $15.99 in New Brunswick, $17.09 in Prince Edward Island.
Closson Chase The Brock Chardonnay 2021 (Canada), $24.95
Prince Edward County’s Closson Chase produces The Brock Chardonnay with grapes from KJ Watson vineyard in Niagara-on-the-Lake. A 50/50 blend of tank- and barrel-fermented chardonnay yields an appealing white wine with freshness and complexity, suggesting a mix of lemon, apple and spice notes that linger. Vegan. Drink now to 2025. Available at the above price in Ontario, $26 direct (2020 vintage), clossonchase.com, $22.99 in Saskatchewan, $20 in Manitoba, $24.99 in Prince Edward Island, $27.16 in Newfoundland.
Hidden Bench Estate Organic Gamay 2022 (Canada), $29.95
Hidden Bench, which produced its first gamay in 2019, has quickly settled into a successful intense and complex house style. This is dry and youthful model with a fuller body (for gamay) and a mix of fruit (cherry, berry, plum), savoury and earthy flavours. Decant or cellar for best enjoyment. Drink now to 2027. Available at the above price in Ontario, $29.75 direct, hiddenbench.com, $33.48 in New Brunswick.
La Crema Monterey Pinot Noir 2022 (United States), $34.95
La Crema winemaker Craig McAllister’s portfolio is strongly focused on chardonnay and pinot noir from cooler pockets of California. Part of the Jackson Family Wines stable, this fragrant and complex pinot comes from estate vineyards in Monterey. The sweet core of fruit is balanced by fine tannins and fresh acidity. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario, $32.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta and Saskatchewan, $46 in New Brunswick, $39.99 in Nova Scotia, $40.91 in Newfoundland ($37.46 until Nov. 2).
La Linda Private Selection Old Vines Malbec 2022 (Argentina), $17
La Linda is a label created by Luigi Bosca, one of the original wineries in the Lujan de Cuyo region. Working with malbec grapes from older vines (average age is 30 years) contributes to concentrated character of this red wine. A mix of dark cherry and oak-derived chocolate notes makes for a simple, crowd-pleasing style. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario, $23.49 in British Columbia, $23.99 in Saskatchewan, $16.45 in Quebec.
Liebling Cabernet Franc 2022 (Canada), $32
Liebling winery is based on the Oppenlaender family’s vineyard in Queenston, which was established in 1984. The brand was launched in 2023, with the release of a riesling, sauvignon blanc and gamay from the 2022 vintage. This pure, earthy and refreshing expression of cabernet franc is a new addition to the portfolio, having spent 20 months in barrel prior to bottling. The nose is muted, but the palate delivers lightly peppery cherry/berry fruit with savoury notes to capture the best attributes of the grape variety. Drink now to 2027. Available direct, lieblingwines.ca.
Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (Napa Valley), $39.95
An appetizing blend sees sauvignon blanc from estate vineyards in Stags Leap District and near the winery in Oakville rounded out by 7 per cent of semillon, resulting in a bright and compelling white wine. The flavour is a pleasing combination of lemon, melon and toasty notes. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in British Columbia and Alberta, $48.19 in New Brunswick, $42.99 in Nova Scotia, $55.99 in Newfoundland.
Spearhead Pinot Noir 2022 (Canada), $36
This blend of grapes from Summerland and East Kelowna vineyards represents Spearhead’s largest pinot production (nearly 800 cases). It’s made in a gentle and approachable style, with peppery and earthy accents adding interest to a core of cherry, berry and plummy fruit. This is polished and vibrant, a striking expression of Okanagan pinot. Drink now to 2028. Available direct, spearheadwinery.com.