Despite the uncertain future faced by wineries in the Okanagan and Similkameen valleys following a devastating cold snap in January that killed more than 90 per cent of the buds that would have produced this year’s grape crop, they are heading into the summer with stocked shelves.
Sub-zero temperatures between Jan. 11 and 15 were punishing to the European vinifera vines, such as chardonnay, merlot and pinot noir. Industry-wide estimates in February predicted British Columbia’s vineyards would produce between 1 and 3 per cent of typical yields, with most production coming from the Fraser Valley and Vancouver Island, which were unaffected.
Now that the vines have come out of dormancy, the extent of the damage is becoming evident. The injury reports vary from vineyard to vineyard. Losing this year’s crop is the best scenario for many producers.
The alternative means having to replant individual vines or whole vineyards killed by the wintry blast, which would spell a loss of production until 2028 at the earliest.
In the meantime, wineries are exploring their options, including looking for alternative sources for grapes outside of the province, and adjusting inventory allocations to ensure they have supply to address their tasting rooms and wine-club needs.
A number of this week’s recommendations come from British Columbia’s 2022 vintage, which was the source of a solid selection of high-quality red, white and sparkling wines to seek out.
Black Hills Alibi 2022 (Canada), $35.99
Alibi was the first white wine produced by Black Hills, the Okanagan winery responsible for its celebrated Nota Bene red blend that helped stake the reputation for the Black Sage Bench growing region. Rich and refreshing in turns, Alibi is a stylish sauvignon blanc-based white wine inspired by producers in Bordeaux. A small addition of semillon and fermentation in oak barrels of varying sizes builds texture and concentration without dialling down the pure tropical, citrus and grassy character. Drink now to 2027. Available at the above price in British Columbia, $35 direct, blackhillswinery.com, $38 in Ontario.
Corcelettes Estate Winery Pinot Noir 2022 (Canada), $34.90
Located in the Similkameen Valley, Corcelettes produced this savoury and complex pinot noir from vineyards in Keremeos and Cawston. Its youthful core of red fruit is enhanced by spicy, meaty and earthy notes, which suggests good potential for aging. Drink now to 2030. Available direct, corceletteswine.ca.
Garnet Valley Pinot Noir 2022 (Canada), $44.99
Owned by Okanagan Crush Pad, Garnet Valley operates the highest elevation vineyard in the Okanagan Valley. The cooler Summerland site has an intentional focus on organically farmed chardonnay and pinot noir vines, for sparkling and table wine production. This 2022 release is the second vintage of pinot noir, which presents a delicate floral and berry-scented character that’s fresh and distinctive. Its gentle and pure nature is a departure from the conventional concentrated Okanagan approach. Drink now to 2027. Available direct, okanagancrushpad.com.
Hillside Heritage Series Pinot Gris 2022 (Canada), $35
Made with grapes grown at two vineyards in Naramata, this coppery-coloured white wine captures pinot gris’s floral and fruity profile. (The colour and floral notes come from fermenting the grapes with their skins.) On the palate, the flavours lean toward tropical, pineapple and citrus with some spicy accents. Drink now to 2025. Available direct, hillsidewinery.ca.
Laughing Stock Blind Trust Red 2021 (Canada), $33
Blind Trust was designed to be a guessing game, with the specifics of the blend kept secret until you remove the capsule to find out the grape varieties and proportions used. Spoiler alert, the 2021 is a blend of merlot, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and malbec from vineyards in Oliver, Naramata and Osoyoos. There’s still the mystery of what percentage of each was used for savvy tasters to solve, but that’s difficult to assess given the modern and juicy style. This is a fruit bomb the delivers a payload of plush and ripe fruit flavours. Crowd-pleasing and easy to appreciate. Drink now to 2030. Available direct, laughingstock.ca.
Le Vieux Pin Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (Canada), $31.99
Located near Oliver, Le Vieux Pin is focused on grape varieties from the Rhône, crafting expressive red wines from syrah and provocative white blends of roussanne, marsanne and viognier. But wine lovers shouldn’t overlook this stylish expression of sauvignon blanc made from vineyards in the South Okanagan. A blend of tank- and barrel-fermented wines, this is really refreshing with intense citrusy and earthy notes that carry through to a lingering finish. Drink now to 2027. Available direct, shopenotecca.ca.
Poplar Grove Pinot Noir 2022 (Canada), $34.99
Since its first vintage in 1995, Poplar Grove has become a leading producer of Bordeaux-style red wines, pinot gris and chardonnay. You can add pinot noir to that list, with the debut release of this 2022 vintage. There’s plenty of charm and polish on display, with a core of sweet red fruit mixing with baking spice notes. The texture is silky smooth, with a lingering finishing to add to the pleasant nature. This is sure to age, but I would suggest drinking early to enjoy its satisfying fruit flavours in their prime. Drink now to 2028. Available direct starting June 21, poplargrove.ca.
Nk’Mip Cellars Qwam Qwmt Syrah 2020 (Canada), $42.99
Owned and operated by the Osoyoos Indian Band, Nk’Mip labels its top wines with the designation Qwam Qwmt (pronounced kw-em kw-empt), an expression which means “achieving excellence” in their language. This plush and rewarding syrah was made from grapes grown at the winery’s estate in Osoyoos. The 2020 vintage is developing nicely, with a pleasing mix of blueberry compote, violet and pepper notes as part of its concentrated and flavourful character. It’s drinking now and has tremendous potential for aging. Drink now to 2030. Available direct, greatestatesokanagan.com.
River Stone Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (Canada), $23.90
This easy-going style of sauvignon blanc is produced from River Stone’s estate vineyard in Oliver. A mix of peach, melon and tropical fruit flavours stand out in this simple and balanced white that’s ideally suited for warm weather sipping. Drink now. Available direct, riverstoneestatewinery.ca.