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waters on wine

After working as a wine writer and educator for more than 20 years, there are a few questions I’ve come to expect. “What’s your favourite wine?” is often asked when my occupation is revealed.

These people are looking to make conversation about a career opportunity their guidance counsellor never mentioned. The usual response that my taste in wine often changes with the season usually disappoints; I often wonder where the discussion might go if I declared an unabashed love for white zinfandel or Baby Duck.

More pressing inquiries come from individuals looking for wine recommendations. Usually, it’s a suggestion for a safe bottle to bring to a dinner party, give as a gift or have on hand for entertaining. I take this to mean, what are some go-to, good quality, moderately priced wines that are widely available?

There is always interest in knowing about wines that check all the boxes: enjoyable, affordable and easy to find. Unfortunately, despite the hundreds upon thousands of wines released into the market each year, most fail to meet all three criteria.

Adding to the challenge, inventory at most liquor stores is always in flux and new vintages continue to come out, which might see a once great value wine’s quality take a nosedive because of a poor growing season or change in management. Likewise, a winery that turned out a decent bargain bottle of malbec in 2020, might have caught lightning in a bottle with a stellar 2021 release.

Inexpensive wines that are truly impressive are increasingly hard to find, but here is a selection of nine reliable bottles that I think of worth seeking out for last-minute holiday entertaining needs or wintertime enjoyment.

Avalon Pinot Noir 2021 (United States), $18.75

Rating:88 /100

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Avalon is a surprisingly inexpensive California pinot noir that tastes like pinot. Produced with pinot noir grapes grown in vineyards in northern and central California located near the Pacific coast, this is a red wine with a ripe and silky texture. The flavours suggest concentrated cherry and berry notes with some smoke accents from the influence of oak aging. This is plush and juicy in style, with good balance and a decent finish. Drink now to 2025. Available in Ontario.

Casillero del Diablo Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (Chile), $14.95

Rating:88 /100

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One of the largest wine producers in the world, Concha y Toro’s Casillero del Diablo label is a consistent source for affordable and appealing cabernet sauvignon from Chile’s Central Valley. The dry red’s crowd-pleasing style is built on an enjoyable fruity character and soft, creamy texture. Drink now. Available in Ontario at the above price ($12.95 until Dec. 31), $16.99 in British Columbia ($14.99 until Dec. 30), various prices in Alberta, $15.49 in Saskatchewan, $15.99 in Manitoba ($14.39 until Dec. 31), $13.95 in Quebec, $17.99 in New Brunswick, $15.99 in Nova Scotia, $17.96 in Newfoundland ($15.46 until Dec. 31), $17.99 in Prince Edward Island.

Domaine Jean Bousquet Malbec Organic 2022 (Argentina), $16.95

Rating:89 /100

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Bousquet operates a large estate in Tupungato, located in the higher elevation Gualtallary district of Mendoza. This organic malbec is packed with ripe fruit flavours that are accented by earthy flavours that add interest. There’s bright acidity to balance the fruity intensity and youthful tannins help to provide structure. A serious wine for the price. Drink now to 2025. Vegan-friendly. Available in Ontario at the above price ($14.95 until Dec. 31), $17.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $25.01 in Nova Scotia (Bishop’s Cellar).

Dona Paula Estate Malbec 2021 (Argentina), $17.95

Rating:89 /100

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Made in a consistently enjoyable style, this offers fresh berry fruit with peppery and floral flavours. There’s appealing concentration and structure, which adds depth to this easygoing red wine. Drink now to 2025. Available in Ontario at the above price, $19.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $19.49 in Saskatchewan, $15.99 in Manitoba, $19.99 in Nova Scotia.

El Petit Bonhomme 2020 (Spain), $16.95

Rating:88 /100

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A blend of monastrell, garnacha and syrah grapes from older bush vines in Jumilla in southeast Spain, this fruity red wine makes the most of its fresh and ripe character. Nicely concentrated dark fruit flavours are rounded out by peppery spice and herbal notes. The smooth and soft texture adds to the crowd-pleasing nature. Drink now. Vegan. Available at the above price in Ontario, $17.99 in British Columbia ($16.99 until Dec. 30), various prices in Alberta, $18.99 in Manitoba ($16.99 until Dec. 31), $16.60 in Quebec (2022 vintage), $19.69 in Prince Edward Island.

Mare di Sirena Pinot Grigio 2022 (Italy), $9.95

Rating:87 /100

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Toronto wine agent Alex Patinos sought out an Italian winery to produce a value-priced pinot grigio that met his style and quality parameters. The result is Mare di Sirena, a bright and fruity white with a fresh, lingering finish. Now in its third vintage, it’s showing consistent character at a value price. Drink now. Available in Ontario at the above price, $14.99 in British Columbia ($12.99 until Dec. 30).

Nederburg The Winemasters Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (South Africa), $16.95

Rating:88 /100

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This blend of sauvignon blanc and sémillon (10 per cent) is grown in cool-climate vineyards in South African districts such as Darling, Stellenbosch and Philadelphia. The result is a pleasing white wine with a mix of tropical, citrus and herbal flavours. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $18.98 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $16.99 in Nova Scotia.

Santa Rita 120 Reserva Especial Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (Chile), $12.95

Rating:87 /100

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Produced with grapes grown in vineyards spread across Chile’s Central Valley, this is a richer style of sauvignon blanc with peach and citrus flavours with a subtle herbal accent. The style is juicy and fresh, with an easy to appreciate character. Available in Ontario at the above price, $12.99 in British Columbia and Manitoba, various prices in Alberta, $12.49 in Saskatchewan, $14.99 in New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island, $14.69 in Nova Scotia.

With Love From The Cape Chenin Blanc 2022 (South Africa), $16.95

Rating:88 /100

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Bold citrus, peach and green apple stand out in this fruity and flavourful wine that captures the easygoing appeal of the chenin blanc grape. Made in an unoaked style, this crowd-pleasing white is dry and satisfying. Drink now to 2025. Available in Ontario.

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