Wineries in British Columbia are facing another disastrous harvest, after a deep freeze in January is believed to have killed the buds that would become this year’s grape crop. Industry estimates suggest a loss of 97 to 99 per cent of the 2024 vintage across the province, but the full extent of the damage won’t be known until later in the growing season.
The projections would be devastating to producers already reeling from a bad 2023 harvest. A cold snap in late 2022 and early 2023 resulted in an estimated 56-per-cent reduction in British Columbia’s wine production.
Grape vines in British Columbia typically come out of dormancy in April and May, which is when winemakers will accurately assess the health of their vineyards. In extreme cases, subzero temperatures can kill the vine and require growers to replant their vineyard, which means going without a crop for two to four years.
Another concern for the province’s wineries is how consumers react to the news. Stocks of wine from British Columbia will be affected in the future, but wineries have bottles to sell now. They are ready to welcome visitors to their wineries and tasting rooms, and rely on sales to help them prepare for an uncertain future.
Four British Columbia producers are featured in this week’s roundup of Canadian wines to enjoy this month.
16 Mile Cellar Rebel Pinot Noir 2020 (Canada), $26.75
The family-owned 16 Mile Cellar focuses on pinot noir and chardonnay from its estate vineyard in Jordan, Ont. Rebel is the entry-level label, which is a blend of pinot noir that aged 12 months in older oak barrels. Made in a round, supple and fruity style, with a core of dark fruit flavours that gains interest from spicy and earthy notes, this is just starting to hit its stride. Drink now to 2028. Available direct, 16milecellar.com.
Domaine Queylus Tradition Chardonnay 2019 (Canada), $29.95
Tradition is the introductory tier in Queylus’s portfolio of Niagara wines. This 2019 chardonnay reveals a surprisingly rich character, suggesting a mix of honeyed, waxy, toffee aromas. On the palate, a creamy texture and a refreshing core of fruit that runs toward yellow and green apple and lemon and lime zest balance the richness. Lime pith, spice and stoney notes help tighten up the finish. Drink now to 2026. Available in Ontario.
Henry of Pelham Lost Boys Limited Edition Bin 106 Baco Noir 2021 (Canada), $39.95
The Speck family, which owns and operates Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery in west St. Catharines, Ont., have shone a spotlight on the baco noir grape from the start. The winery produces four different baco noirs each year, with the limited-edition Lost Boys labels representing the top expression of the grape. Produced from the oldest vines available to the winemakers, planted in 1984, this is a richly concentrated and refreshing red with appealing dark fruit, savoury and cedar notes. Drink now to 2030. Available in Ontario.
Hester Creek Garland 2020 (Canada), $64.99
Garland is the flagship red wine produced at Hester Creek. It is named after winery owner Curt Garland and was first released in 2018 to honour the 50th anniversary of the planting of European vines on the Golden Mile Bench property in the Okanagan Valley. A blend of most cabernet sauvignon with petit verdot and malbec, this is a ripe and savoury red wine with a polished character. There’s nice freshness and emerging complexity, which spells terrific aging potential for this serious expression. Drink now to 2034. Vegan. Available direct, hestercreek.
High Note Verismo Syrah 2021 (Canada), $35
High Note is a recent addition to the Okanagan wine scene, which worked with consulting winemaker Pascal Madevon to produce its opening inventory. Produced with grapes from Rattlesnake Vineyard on the Golden Mile Bench, this impressive syrah offers a mix of dark fruit flavours with floral, pepper and sage notes that add fragrance and complexity to this stylish red wine. The structure and acidity suggest this will mature gracefully. Drink now to 2028. Available direct, highnoteestatewinery.com.
Martin’s Lane Simes Vineyard Riesling 2022 (Canada), $65
Named after John Simes, head winemaker at Mission Hill Family Estate from 1992 to 2015, who helped spur the growth of the Okanagan wine industry, the organically certified Simes Vineyard is in East Kelowna, in one of the coolest pockets of the Okanagan. The riesling vines are located at the bottom of the vineyard and are typically the last grapes to be harvested for Martin’s Lane. The captivating style is balanced and textural, with pure citrus, stoney and savoury aromas and flavours. Drink now to 2032. Available as part of the LCBO March Cellar online cellar release, via vintagesshoponline.com, $62 a bottle, direct from martinslanewinery.com (sold as a three-pack for $165), various prices in Alberta.
Peninsula Ridge Inox Chardonnay 2023 (Canada), $16.95
Inox, which means “stainless steel,” is Peninsula Ridge’s name for its unoaked chardonnay. The style is fresh and fruity, with a mix of juicy tropical, peach and citrus notes that are rounded out by some earthy and stony notes. This is a vibrant and flavourful medium-bodied white wine from Niagara with a refreshing finish. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario or direct from peninsularidge.com.
Tawse Quarry Road Pinot Noir 2021 (Canada), $35.95
Tawse planted pinot noir vines in 2007 at the Quarry Road Vineyard in Lincoln, Ont. Grapes from the organically farmed site always show a different personality than the other pinots produced, notably the Cherry Avenue and Tintern Road single vineyard labels, by the Niagara winery, with more fragrance and lift, a leaner profile and refreshing red fruit flavours enhanced by spice and earthy notes. This is true-to-type, cool-climate pinot that’s nicely balanced with decent length. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, direct from tawsewinery.com, $42.99 in Newfoundland.
Township 7 NBO Blue Terrace Vineyard 2020 (Canada), $44.97
A cabernet sauvignon and merlot blend from a vineyard in Oliver, B.C., this rich and structured Okanagan red shows a pleasing mix of dark fruit, spice and cedar notes. It’s a dry and distinctive wine that’s built for the cellar. Drink now to 2032. Available direct, township7.com.