Celebrity chef Gordon Ramsey.Supplied
Sweary celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay teamed up with Italian winemaker Alberto Antonini to produce a range of wines, including Intenso, a multiregional red blend from Italy that was recently launched in Ontario.
A featured release at LCBO Vintages outlets, Gordon Ramsay Intenso is produced from grapes grown in Tuscany (sangiovese) and Abruzzo (montepulciano and merlot), an unusual practice for Italian winemaking, which is why you won’t see the letters DOC, DOCG or even IGT on the label, to let consumers know the wine was made according to regulations set out in the country’s stringent classification system.
The back label of Ramsay’s bottle simply declares it to be a “Wine of Italy.” Perhaps the belief is the wine doesn’t need a regional designation to attract attention. It can sell based on the fiery tempered chef’s star power alone, but there’s more than Ramsay’s sizzle at work here.
The project’s winemaker Alberto Antonini is a star in his own right, working at his family’s winery in Tuscany, Poggiotondo, and consulting with clients around the world, including Haywire in Summerland, B.C., and Uruguay’s Bodega Garzon.
Blending different grapes from different regions is an effective tool in California and Australia to produce wines with a consistency of style and quality across vintages. It can also be a way to deliver wines at a more affordable price since winemakers can shop around for quality grapes to match the style of wine they wish to create rather than having to stick within a specific region or appellation where production costs may be more expensive.
There isn’t a sense of place conveyed in the aroma and flavour of Ramsay’s complex red wine. It doesn’t call to mind the spicy, earthy and berry essence of a Chianti from Tuscany, for instance. It does, however, offer satisfying flavour and serious character at an appealing price, which is worthy of a chef’s kiss from value-minded wine lovers.
Bastide Miraflors Syrah Vieilles Vignes Grenache 2020 (France), $19.95
Jean-Marc Lafage’s red blend from the south of France is consistently enjoyable, with a harmonious mix of ripe dark fruit and spicy flavours. The bold and concentrated flavours make this a solid barbecue red, with a full-bodied character that promises to develop over the next three to five years. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, $26.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $28.98 in New Brunswick.
Closson Chase The Brock Chardonnay 2021 (Canada), $26
One of the pioneering producers in Prince Edward County, Closson Chase produces this enjoyable chardonnay with grapes from the KJ Watson vineyard in Niagara-on-the-Lake. Winemaker Keith Tyers blends 50 per cent tank fermented and aged chardonnay with 50 per cent that was fermented and aged in older French oak barrels to result in a white wine with nicely balanced freshness and complexity. The flavours suggest a mix of spice, apple and citrus. Vegan. Drink now to 2025. Available at the above price in Ontario, $23.99 in British Columbia (2018 vintage), $20 in Manitoba (2019 vintage), $24.99 in New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island (2019 vintage), $26.49 in Newfoundland (2019 vintage).
Gordon Ramsay Intenso 2020 (Italy), $17
The creative partnership between celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay and globetrotting vintner Alberto Antonini brings about a flavourful and complex red wine with appealing freshness and complexity. The mix of dark fruit, herbal and spice flavours takes on smoky and coffee bean note as it opens in the glass, making this a seriously enjoyable celebrity wine. Drink now to 2024. Available in Ontario.
Jaffelin Bourgogne Aligoté 2021 (France), $22
The aligoté grape represents 6 per cent of the the vines planted in Burgundy where it produces straightforward and satisfying whites like this. Look for bright and crisp citrus and green apple fruit as part of a refreshing and enjoyable wine that works with a wide range of dishes. It’s also enjoyable on its own or mixed with a splash of blackcurrant liqueur to produce a Kir cocktail. Drink now to 2025. Available at the above price in Ontario, $26.29 in New Brunswick.
Ken Forrester Sparklehorse Sparkling Chenin Blanc 2019 (South Africa), $32.95
One of South Africa’s most ardent champions of the chenin blanc grape, winemaker Ken Forrester produces it in every possible variety, from dry to lusciously sweet, still and sparkling. Sparklehorse is his traditional method sparkling wine produced from a vineyard in Stellenbosch. The vines have a virus that prevents the grapes from reaching full maturity, but the quality is perfect for sparkling wine, which is picked earlier to have the necessary acidity for a crisp and refreshing bubbly. Made in a dry style, this expressive bubbly delivers a complex mix of citrus, yellow apple and melon fruit with honey and biscuit notes. Drink now to 2027. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta.
Mission Hill Reserve Meritage 2021 (Canada), $30.99
A blend of mostly merlot and cabernet franc, with a supporting role played by cabernet sauvignon, malbec and petit verdot, Mission Hill’s reserve red blend boasts a ripe core of dark fruit flavours that are bright and concentrated. Aging in French and American oak adds complexity, with vanilla and cocoa notes rounding out the satisfying and persistence character. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in British Columbia, $31 direct, missionhill.com, various prices in Alberta, $32.99 in Manitoba, $33 in Quebec (2020 vintage).
Stratus White 2021 (Canada), $49
Niagara-on-the-Lake’s Stratus Vineyards produced its first vintage of Stratus White in 2000 and has continued to evolve the style of this rich and inviting blend of white wine grapes. The 2021 vintage is a mix of chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and sémillon that offers complex tropical and tree fruit flavours, herbal and floral notes, with a honeyed and waxy character on the palate. This checks all the boxes for flavour, freshness and focus, with a rewarding texture that underscores its quality and aging potential. Decanting adds to the wine’s appeal at this early stage, this promises to mature gracefully. Drink now to 2029. Available direct, stratuswines.com, $48 in Quebec (2019 vintage).
Villa Puccini Vermentino Toscana 2022 (Italy), $14.90
A new listing at LCBO stores, this affordable white offers fresh peach and citrus flavours with subtle herbal and salty notes on the palate. An easy to appreciate wine that’s on the simple side but has enough flavour and refreshment to enjoy on its own or with a meal. Drink now. Available in Ontario.