Elaine Vickers of Red Rooster Winery has a way with grapes and is elevating Canadian wine with her malbec and pinot blends.Red Rooster Winery
Fired up by the potential of malbec in the Okanagan, Red Rooster Winery has embraced the grape in a way few other Canadian wineries have. Winemaker Elaine Vickers uses malbec to craft a variety of distinctive and enjoyable wines, an appealing rosé, a stylish bottle-fermented sparkling rosé, a juicy red blend with merlot and a refined barrel-aged expression, that exemplify the evolution happening at the Naramata Road winery.
A succession of new releases and practices followed Vickers’s arrival in 2019. The labels were overhauled to remove the bird imagery in favour of cleaner, more contemporary designs. New equipment and winemaking techniques helped develop different winemaking styles for the producer. Purchased by Peller Estates in 2005, which also operates Sandhill, Black Hills, Tinhorn Creek, Grey Monk and other labels in British Columbia, Red Rooster has been rethinking its operation.
Malbec isn’t the only budding star. The winery released its first white wine made from the semillon grape as well as a blend called Pinot Three, which combines pinot gris, pinot blanc and pinot noir that were fermented and aged in concrete vats.
“I feel supported and privileged to be in this opportunity,” says Vickers during a video conference call held in November to introduce the sparkling malbec and other releases. “I am able to try a whole bunch of new things and play around, which is always fun.”
Vickers is happy with the team’s first effort with sparkling malbec, which was produced and released quickly for a fresh and fruity style. It’s one of the wines recommended this week. But she has plans to improve the character and complexity for the next release, which will see half released after one year, the same as the current release, and the other half held back for an additional year to see how the style changes.
Vickers on the job at Red Rooster Winery.Red Rooster Winery
Blue Mountain Gold Label Brut (Canada), $27.90
Blue Mountain’s Gold Label continues to impress. A stylish sparkling wine made in the traditional method, from a base wine made from estate-grown pinot noir and chardonnay from the 2018 vintage, this offers a nice balance between rich honey, nutty and toasty flavours and refreshing citrus notes. The current release was aged for 24 months before being disgorged in May, 2021, and finished for release. Drink now to 2025. Available at the above price direct, bluemountainwinery.com, and various prices from select stores in British Columbia and Alberta, $28.75 in Quebec.
Bonny Doon Le Cigare Volant 2020 (United States), $19.95
Bonny Doon was founded by trail-blazing winemaker Randall Grahm in 1983 and set about a decidedly different approach to winemaking in California, specializing in Rhône grape varieties despite the surging popularity of chardonnay, cabernet and merlot. Grahm sold the winery in 2020, but continues to consult. Modelled after the blended red wines made in France’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape district, Le Cigar Volant is made in a complex and succulent style, with ripe dark fruit, savoury and earthy notes. Its concentration, smooth texture and lingering finish add to the appeal. Drink now to 2030. Available in Ontario at the above price, various prices in Alberta, $24.95 in Quebec.
Château des Charmes Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017 (Canada), $44.95
This single vineyard pinot noir is only produced in outstanding vintages and released after extended bottle aging for increased complexity. True to Château des Charmes’ house style, this is a full-bodied and savoury style of pinot, with a compelling core of berry fruit that’s enhanced by cedary and savoury flavours. The finish is marked by ripe tannins that suggest this is best enjoyed with a meal. Drink now to 2027. Available direct, chateaudescharmes.com
Claymore London Calling Cabernet/Malbec 2019 (Australia), $19.95
Claymore adopts the names of classic albums as well as iconic songs and hitmakers for a series of wines it produces in Clare Valley, South Australia. (Another series draws its inspiration from the Liverpool Football Club.) The Clash’s double album masterpiece used to echo the combination of grippy cabernet and juicy malbec works to great effect in this powerfully fruity wine. Rich and rewarding dark fruit flavours shine through dark chocolate and tobacco on the palate, rounded out by balanced tannin, alcohol and acidity. Drink now to 2027. Available in Ontario at the above price, $21.15 in Quebec.
Red Rooster Winery Sparkling Rosé (Canada), $30
This bottle-fermented rosé is one of winemaker Elaine Vickers dynamic new additions to the Red Rooster portfolio. A pale-pink coloured sparkling wine primarily produced from malbec grapes grown in the Okanagan, this dry sparkling wine offers a refreshing hit of tart red berry fruit and citrus zest with some floral and herbal notes. Those nicely layered flavours are balanced by vibrant acidity, which makes this an appealing aperitif. Drink now to 2025. Available direct, redroosterwinery.com
Township 7 Seven Stars Rigel 2020 (Canada), $36.97
One of the first to seriously approach sparkling-wine production in the Okanagan, Township 7 has developed an exciting range of traditional method sparkling wines, which are named after different stars in the constellation. Rigel is made from riesling grapes grown at the Fool’s Gold vineyard in North Oliver. You can expect fresh flavours backed by fresh acidity, with lemon and green apple flavours and subtle earthy and honey notes from start to finish. The style is appealing on its own and would be a nice match for seafood dishes. Drink now to 2025. Available in British Columbia at the above price or direct, township7.com
Villa Maria Cellar Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2021 (New Zealand), $21.95
In October, 2021, this New Zealand brand went from being a family-owned operation to part of Indevin, a contract winemaking company started in Blenheim in 2003. The continuing success of the Villa Maria brand is tied tightly to its Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc, with its textbook fragrant and intense style that has become a global success. This gold label sauvignon blanc turns up the intensity of herbal and citrus fruit flavours, without losing the refreshment factor. Fans of New Zealand sauvignon blanc will like this a lot. Drink now. Available in Ontario at the above price, various prices in Alberta, $22.99 in Manitoba.
William Fèvre Espino Reserva Especial Chardonnay 2021 (Chile), $15.95
Produced by a sister operation to the William Fèvre domaine in Chablis, Espino Especial Chardonnay is made in a dry, easygoing and enjoyable style. The flavours are focused, with an attractive character defined by apple and pear notes, while the texture is smooth and creamy in nature that gains refreshment from the clean sweep of acidity on the finish. Drink now to 2025. Available in Ontario at the above price, various prices in Alberta.
Plan your weekend with our Good Taste newsletter, offering wine advice and reviews, recipes, restaurant news and more. Sign up today.