Julie Van Rosendaal/The Globe and Mail
Apple season is evident in grocery stores and farmers’ markets, where the usual year-round suspects make way for dozens of juicy, flavourful varieties that haven’t spent months in storage.
Beyond the markets, apple trees in neighbourhoods and backyards across the country are loaded with fruit, and though we may not know the varieties by name, all are usable, even those that seem too small to bother with. Considering the cost, they’re worth the effort.
Crabapples (a word used to describe any number of small, sour apples typically grown in back yards rather than orchards) are almost always tart, making them ideal for pies, crisps, muffins and all kinds of baked goods. Fortunately, it’s easy to simply slice the fleshy cheeks off apples of any size without bothering to peel and core them the same way you might peel and core a full-sized apple. (There’s no reason apples of any kind need to be peeled for a pie or other baked goods – most of us eat apples with their skin, which contains much of the fruit’s fibre and nutrients.) Alternatively, their fleshly cheeks could be grated for muffins and quick breads, or to add a bit of apple to your morning oatmeal or granola.
Because of their high pectin content concentrated in the skin and core, tiny apples can be simmered whole, mashed and strained for the most beautiful pink jelly. (Apples pair well with all other fruits – I often make apple-plum or apple-grape, or tuck a sprig of rosemary or pinch of chilies into small jars of apple jelly destined for winter cheese boards.) And if you want to use the fruit, slice off the cheeks and toss the cores into jelly or jam rather than resort to store-bought pectin, or cover them with water and simmer to make cider – toss in a cinnamon stick and sweeten with brown sugar or maple syrup. Core to stem is the new nose to tail.
If apple pie is your jam, this is a very streamlined version. It starts with frozen puff pastry and the apples are quickly sautéed first, which allows them to reduce slightly so they don’t shrink in the pie, the heat of the pan allowing them to caramelize, developing more deep, complex flavours than they would by steaming as they bake inside a pastry shell. Cooking the apples first also allows the pie itself to bake in a small fraction of the time a full-sized apple pie would require – since the fruit is already cooked through, you need only concern yourself with a golden outer crust.
Apple Slab Pie
This pie resembles a giant turnover – filled with sautéed apples, it bakes quickly and is as well-suited to breakfast as it is for dinner.
- 2-3 Tbsp butter
- 4 cups sliced apples (or 2-3 large ones, cored and sliced)
- 1/4 cup packed brown sugar
- A shake of cinnamon
- 1/2 pkg. puff pastry, thawed
- 1 egg and/or some milk, cream or oat milk (for brushing – optional)
- Coarse sugar, for sprinkling (optional)
Preheat the oven to 375 F.
Put the butter into a large skillet over medium-high heat. When it starts to foam, add the apples and sauté for 3-5 minutes, until they start to caramelize on the edges. Add the brown sugar and cinnamon and remove from the heat, stirring to coat the apples.
On a lightly floured surface, roll the pastry out into an 11 to 12-inch square (or just unroll it, if it’s prerolled). Transfer to a parchment-lined sheet, letting one side hang over the edge, and spread the apples down one half of the pastry, leaving half an inch or so around the three sides. Fold the pastry over to cover the apples – it doesn’t have to look perfect – and fold over or press down around the edges with the tines of a fork.
Brush with beaten egg (or cream, or oat milk, or a combination of the two) if you want a glossy finish, and sprinkle with coarse sugar if you like. Cut a few slashes in the top with a sharp knife to help steam escape. Bake for about 20 minutes, until deep golden. Let cool for a few minutes before cutting into slices or wedges. Serves about 6.