Julie Van Rosendaal's fire-roasted eggplant and onion baba ghanoush.Julie Van Rosendaal/The Globe and Mail
Socializing and telling stories around a fire is a deeply primal pleasure, as is preparing food over and in it. Though many of us have been conditioned to the controlled heat and convenience of a shiny-knobbed propane or briquette-fuelled grill, cooking over flame and hot coals feels more real. We must rely on our senses and intuition to gauge heat levels and determine when our food is done, and this element of danger somehow makes it more satisfying when you successfully get dinner on the table.
Utilizing the existing heat of a dying fire to precook veggies is a great way to get a head start on future meals, and generate more complex flavours. As your fire dies down at the end of the night, the smouldering coals radiate heat at temperatures similar to a wood-fired pizza oven, and you can take advantage of that energy to slow-roast all kinds of food as the embers cool, adding layers of flavour via the caramelization that occurs at higher temperatures, and the residual smoke.
Hardy winter squash, potatoes, onions, eggplant – all can be wrapped in foil and tucked directly into hot coals to cook for a few hours or overnight, then used right away, or stashed in the fridge to pull out over the next few days. Sticky, smoky caramelized onions are delicious on a burger, or chopped and stirred into mayo and sour cream to make a dip to pair with Rip-L chips. Fire-roasted potatoes make a salad with more texture and character than any boiled-potato version, and charred, slow-roasted eggplant makes the most amazing baba ghanoush.
Fire-roasted Eggplant and Onion Baba Ghanoush
The amount of tahini, lemon juice and olive oil you use will depend on the quantity of slow-roasted eggplant and onion you begin with, and your personal taste – adjust for each to achieve the flavour and texture you want. If you want to make some naan to go with it, you can also cook it on the grill or in a cast iron skillet over an open fire.
Baba Ghanoush
- 1 large or 2 small-medium eggplants
- 1-2 large or 2-3 small onions or leeks
- Tahini, to taste (aim for around 1/4 cup)
- Lemon juice, to taste
- Salt, to taste
- Olive oil, to taste
- Other veg, such as leeks and cherry or grape tomatoes, for serving with (optional)
- Chopped parsley, for garnish (optional)
Naan
- 1 cup all-purpose flour
- 1/4 tsp each baking powder and salt
- 2 tbsp oil or other fat – butter, coconut oil or shortening
When your fire is dying down and the coals are still smouldering, wrap your eggplant and onions in a double layer of foil and tuck them into the hot coals to slow-cook as the fire cools down. Turn them with tongs once or twice if you think of it, which will help them cook more evenly, or just leave them to cook through and caramelize slowly over several hours, or overnight.
When you’re ready to make baba ghanoush, peel away the blackened skins with your fingers and toss the caramelized onions and softened flesh of the eggplant into a food processor with a large spoonful (about 1/4 cup) of tahini, a good squeeze of lemon juice (start with half a lemon – you can always add more), and a big pinch of salt. Pulse to combine, scraping down the side of the bowl, then drizzle in some olive oil in a thin stream with the motor running until the mixture is as creamy and smooth as you like. Taste and add more lemon, tahini or salt, if you need it.
For the naan: In a medium bowl, combine the flour, baking powder and salt; rub in the butter or oil, then add 1/4 cup water and stir until the dough comes together. Knead for a few minutes, until smooth and elastic, and let rest for at least 20 minutes. Divide the dough into three to four pieces, roll each as thin as you can on an un-floured surface (it needs to be tacky enough to grip the countertop to roll really thin) and cook in a drizzle of oil or dab of butter or ghee in a very hot skillet (cast iron is ideal) over high heat on the stovetop, or over hot coals or an open fire. Flip when the naan starts to develop bubbles on the top and is golden on the bottom. (This formula can be easily doubled or tripled to make as much naan as you like.)
Serve right away or refrigerate for up to five days. To serve, top with some grilled or roasted veggies, fresh parsley and/or a drizzle of olive oil, if you like.
Serves about eight.